wisecobandit

Theres been a few around here at bridford so close to tcd and a few miles away culver sawmill. Luckily after being broke into approx. 3 mths ago the sawmill installed a camera system. Got the 3 crims on camera and names have been given to police so maybe that may put a stop to a few of them around here... Seeing the pics 1 is clear enough for a prosecution having a full mugshot.

I tell myself that every year to lol. it still never happened but its all for a good cause. Congratulations to all you winners

Or hes got to the ms200 and done a runner with it lol.

As for .20 calibre they do appear to be getting more common although remember choice of pellet is still very much limited still. Air rifles for superior accuracy need to be pellet matched and what works well in one wont work well in another. I don't know if pellpax do .20 but you would be well advised to get a selection of 10 different types of pellet from them and find which one suits the best. (unfortunately that's probably every type of .20 pellet made...)

As you say earlier the same factory as what produced theoben. Years ago I had the eliminator and a hyeuda fenman which where both very good. I wish I had never got rid of the eliminator it was a cracking gun. Little is known about the impacts yet being so new but im sure if they live up to the theoben reputation you wont be disappointed. Ive not seen an impact yet let alone shot one unfortunatly

Hi jon me ole mate. I went for the longer barrel (15" I think it is) over the shorter one. My reason being although the short barrels maybe more advantageous in a tight spot a) they aren't so accurate and b) they actually need more air to get up to full power so less shots per charge.

Yup that's the one Stubby. Regulated straight out the factory altho ive changed my reg for an xtx reg (plug and play). .22 160 ish shots per charge. Ive got the bullpup barrel and silencer and its quieter than a mouses fart. Im not as steady as I once was but can still put 10 shots through the same hole all be it a bit ragged with jsb exacts or bisley magnums at 40 yards. Chrono it and every shot will be within 4 feet per second of each other. I cant be doing the likes of airarms s410 where you need to charge it up every 40 shots or so especially on nights on the rats etc.

I thought they where the best til I bought a new r10 ;-p

Just done 4 to...

Should be £20 in there from me.

Wait til you get a rogue sprocker if you think cockers are hard work... I have all 3 breeds. They say with a sprocker you get the worst of both worlds and I have a tendency to agree.... Theres never a problem getting him in water, its getting the little sod back out! Fine on a retrieve when carrying but then wants to go back in just to swim. Also one minute keen as mustard to hunt when theres scent but when its dull scent he can become reluctant, however if he goes in like that you know somethings going to be coming out the other end of the brambles. The 2 springers are always good and predictable, the cocker is very good but can have moments so needs to be kept in tighter. The sprocker is great for wildfowling with his love of swimming and retrieving but on the big pheasant days doesn't get worked to much for fear of that "embarrassing moment" of some kind or another as needs 1 on 1 whereas I can run the others as a team or pair..

I will try get some pics of the 090 I built up/restored. Bit of a mash up of bits tho it looks quite nice and new but needs a longer bar!. Only pic I think I have of it is when wickamulla came out on a bit of a play day so its him in the pic not me (thankfully)

Ah maybe a bit far. I recently built a 13hp vertical/horizontal road tow and cost me prob about 1k to build (not including labour..... Its not up for sale but you could have seen/used it to give you an idea or what works/doesn't for you for when the time comes to part with your money. Its always nice to have something to compare to to find things that suit or don't suit you or the work.

Where abouts you to BigT out of interest?

I had both at the same time. I now have 3 395's and no 390...

No new available here in the uk unless you ever found a dealer with one hidden away in the darkest depths. They do come up secondhand but do hold there value despite being sold in good numbers. The "original non x torq" 372 also similar to the above.

Think it was Eddy Matty or stubby saying you can get new crankcases already fitted with crank for about £200 from Husqvarna. Found it... http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/92106-husqvarna-560xp-crankcase.html

Best I had was steroids in the eye or a bad case of arc eye, so bad they even took photos of them for training purposes. Went bed that day just a little sore and woke up with eyes gunk up and streaming at the same time. Couldn't even open them. Super dooper steroid cream 10 minutes later pain free. Yup still have the orange dye dribbling down the back of my throat at the moment yuk. I know what you mean gray git. I should've learnt by now but the worse metal I had was as a teanager and they they had to inject to numb my eyeball rather than numbing drops! They strapped me into the machine and told me as the syringe was a few inches from my eye. I fainted and took the whole machine off the table being strapped to my head lol. With regards to mri I had a couple on my back as had back issues. They mentioned about metal and I said not as far as I was aware. However just afterwards within hours my finger started throbbing, About 2 weeks later I had a small lump/wound on my finger and doing like we do found a needle and started digging only to find a stainless steel shard in it probably from my stainless steel welding job many years earlier. I assume the mri scanner almost sucked it towards the surface and got it moving from a place it prob had laid dormant.

So it all started with squeaky brakes on the truck.... Ok bit of copperslip will sort the problem out. So of with the fronts only to find the squeal being caused by worn disc and the edge of the pad binding on a ridge. Ok big no no but as the ridge was on 1/16" wide what the hell I will grind it off and order new disc's tomoz as the squeal was driving me insane. Ok decide im not spending an hour to remove the disc (4x4) so lets do it in place, Damn cant find the specs and as normal no time to look so grab the grinder and ensure sparks fly in the opposite direction. Only problem 1 of the over excited hounds runs past getting tangled in the electrical flex... Hmm face full of metal grinding sparks and 1 eye now rather irritating and pinker than an albinos eye... So now stick it all back together and as my workshops 10 miles to the hospital... So all back together and driving to the hospital and it drops a cylinder ffs so now its chuffing unburnt fuel smoke out the rear... Get to a and e to find a full waiting room.... 4 hours later get seen, hold my hand up saying what actually happened to be given a lecture on h & s... Doc finds said metal burnt into pupil. 15 or so attempts later with a fine metal needle manages to scrape it off. Goes to compare it to other eye only to find metal in that one to but gets that out first time thankfully. "not driving are you" no of course not, as im on the way out.... find the truck and drive home with numbed eyes which are full of ointment.. Stick diagnostics on truck to find "open injector circuit" so possibly an injectors gone done. Not to bad you say? Hmmm takes 3 hours to change the sparkplugs and the injectors are under them... Starting to wish that today never happened :001_rolleyes:

Its obviously an aftermarket cylinder but that does mean its a 12mm piston pin over the 10mm so more availability. I would fit a decomp anyway looking how bad a fit the plug is. Someones had to cut a slot just to screw it in with a screwdriver which means it will prob undo again. A decomp is only a 13mm socket and would prob fit under the standard cover and you could just forget about it.If you wanted to use it you could prob drill a hole in the top cover and fit a grommet to make if look factory.

d4 for me

Forest world and most of the other uk/Ireland stores all use the Chinese carbs so if your prepared to wait just get one direct at half the price. Normally takes a couple weeks.

So strong spark and fuel but not firing, think the next step really is a compression test to double check that. No silly mesh screen on the exhaust that could be blocked and the fuel line is good with no leak? You could try the carb/coil on the good saw just to eliminate them having any issue. If that all seems fine then a pressure test is in order as sounds a bit like an air leak somewhere. The saw hasn't been dropped or shows signs of it and got a crack in the crankcase?

Most of us prob use a gunson hi gauge compression tester to check engine compression. Available from the likes of Halfords for about £20 which you just screw into the sparkplug hole and pull the engine over 8-10 times. Most engines will run over 100psi but ideally you want 130+ If that's good after that its pressure and vac test which is a bit more complex where you basically block the inlet and outlets of the cylinder and pressurise the crankcase to find if it holds pressure or not. (shows up dodgy crank seals, crankcase mating gasket,cylinder gasket etc if it doesn't. TRY THESE NEXT THO BEFORE THE ABOVE, You did pour the fuel into the cylinder plughole onto the piston and then fitted a dry plug and not just poured it on the plug literally didn't you? After burning off the excess fuel you did try a dry plug and pulled it over a bit more didn't you? (no choke) Sounds like its flooded and with that much fuel around it will drown any spark with excess fuel so wont fire anyway until most of its evaporated/burnt off. The next thing you could try is disconnecting the wire to the coil and try pulling it over again checking for a spark etc. This would eliminate a dodgy kill switch. Just beware tho if you do this and put the plug in the engine and it starts that you will need to choke it to stall it or block the air filter as the on/off switch will be disable/disconnected.

Leave the sparkplug out overnight. Tomorrow do the usual trick of pouring a good teaspoon of fuel down thru the sparkplug hole, put back in sparkplug and try pulling it over with no choke. If it fires it will run a bit rough and die but you know you are getting a spark. Assume you have tried a new/known good sparkplug? Ideally it sounds like you could do with a compression check but could be a hole in the intake manifold or similar. Unfortunatly I don't know the saw to be able to comment to much.