Peasgood

Vertical for big rings, horizontal for anything up to 15" diameter or so. I have both and that is my conclusion.

It's a funny old world when a guy in the Highlands is advising a bloke in Cornwall to buy ibc cages off a firm up a mountain in North Wales. So much for local business

Train weight is 5200kg and the gross on my single wheel Cabstar is 3200kg according to the vin plate.

I don't ache too much, can do more work than most that are half my age, have more money than ever before in my life and get to spend all of it on me. What is there to moan about?

I know it's not hornets but this would freak me! BBC News - Winchester woman finds 3ft wasp nest on bed

I have been wondering what a greene nipple is all morning. Thought they must be colour coded on modern machinery or summat

These are ×Cupressocyparis leylandii, or at least that was their latin name when I was at college so it may well be changed by now. I believe they are Haggerston but there was another one whose name escapes me right now, something Green IIRC. Leyland cypress - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Some pics I took today. Top bit is 3m long 70cm diameter at the end you can see. Planted 40 years ago as a windbreak. We have miles of them!

Can you read Microsoft documents with those apps then?

Have grown a lot in single rows as windbreaks, in these situations they are pretty much fully furnished with foliage. They grow fast and put on a decent amount of timber, how they compare to other varieties I don't know. Have also grown quite a few solid blocks of it for various reasons, and as Skyhuck says it is pretty spindly and thin. Good for fence posts kind of spindly. Interestingly we have used some for posts, simply cut them down and sharpened one end. They lasted better than the peeled and treated commercially available posts.

I live in a big old draughty 6 bed farmhouse and heating, cooking and hot water is all supplied by burning leylandii and has been for decades. Chimney in my living room has never been swept that I know of and I've lived here 40 years and it doesn't need sweeping either. Key to avoiding the sap is to stack it outside for 2-3 years before cutting and splitting, won't be any sap if you can do that. Only downside is the sap.

Also gave web address which shows prices.

measure in cm length x width x height then divide by 1,000,000 for cubic metres About 6 cubic metres at a guess.

Seriously? I have acres of them!

An hour in a riding school and I would be ready for a lie down too.

I am surprised at the "bad year" comments. I do this stuff on a large scale as a living and in a big poly tunnel for fun. I thought it had been a pretty good year in all. Soft fruit did well and is still doing so. Raspberries are still picking but the recent wind has knocked them about a bit. Strawberry main crop had good weather which is also good for sales. Apples have started, lighter crop than I would like to see but still looking acceptable so far. Can do without hail though! Don't grow so much veg through the summer, runner bean crop is pleasing and quality is very good. Did have some establishment issues with leatherjackets and had to replant some. Actually worked out well as it showed that timing can be a bit later and gave some sort of succession to the cropping. Still going strong and picking 400lbs every other day. Sales could be better at times but doing OK. As for my tunnel, everything has done very well in there this year. I am lucky to have the space for a big tunnel, something like 25x6 yards in size. Haven't really made proper use of the size but had some lovely new potatoes, carrots, peas, cucumber, tomatoes, red onions and salad onions as well as various herbs. Some of these crops don't need to be in a tunnel but I have the space so why not. In a bad year weatherwise it would be a big advantage but not so this year as it has been very nice weather so far. Surprisingly little insect damage in the tunnel with little or no chemicals, disease is very slight too. Only real issue I have had has been due to very hot days and lack of water. I even double cropped some of my growbags. Had a crop of strawberries, ripped the plants out and replaced with peas. the peas are now finished and I was thinking to get lettuce in there now. I am on my second crop of peas this year and even though I have grown a good few of them, not one single pea has left the tunnel. I stand there, pick them and eat every last one.

Hire a big fan for in the opening and wear a CO alarm around your neck.

Carbaryl? Not seen that for some years now. (might well be true of the others too)

Same here mate. I don't think summer has quite gone yet, we have had a damned good one so far as far as weather is concerned. June and July can be two of the wettest months in recent years and it has been a nice change that they were dry this year. July was a belting month last year too. I think there were only a couple of days it failed to reach 25C

If/when you do actually achieve this wildflower meadow you wish for, you still have to spend a lot of time managing it one way or another. The ground will produce a crop that needs removing, the Olde Worlde meadows that come to mind are a product of management by man, otherwise they would revert to woodland. The way the nutrients were removed back then was by fattening cattle, the cattle took the nutrients with them when they went off to slaughter. Probably took many many generations to get to that point too. In my experience you have a few choices. You can invest in some bigger machinery to manage the growth, ie cut and remove the grass. You can buy a bigger machine just to top and mulch the growth without removing it. You can plough deep and sow flowers, these will of course revert to stinging nettles, thistles, ragwort and docks in a very short time. Or you can use stock to manage it, either yours or someone elses. If someone elses you probably have to reckon on it being rent free, no point paying rent if you can't fertilise type of view. Land management is rarely a sit back and enjoy the view kind of thing, it involves a fair bit of work from somebody.

I have a weather station in my garden that measures and keeps a record of the temperatures. This week is not much different that the same week last year. August isn't as hot as July sometimes.

A quick way to reduce fertility and a recognised way of establishing a wildflower meadow is to plough it very deep. This puts the fertile topsoil under a layer of less fertile subsoil. You would have to know the depth of topsoil in order to know how deep to plough it. Wouldn't be possible if subsoil is solid rock. I considered making a wildflower meadow out of a spare field of mine and having looked into it the above would be my approach. It will take ages just by removing the grass by cutting each year, in fact on my particular field I am far from convinced you would ever reach that point. My field has had no fertiliser for more than a decade, possibly two (time goes by very quick) and having had hay and silage off it the field still grows strong grass. Only flowers are hogweed, plantains and a patch of vetch type stuff. I changed my plans and installed 20 geese, much more fun. When I am rich and famous I plan to have 200 of them.

About 50 geese might just about do it as long as you stop with the fertiliser.