Peasgood

I hide mine in a swamp. Worked so far.

I think most folk switched to gas around here a good while ago. Some of the out of the way places still use oil but not so many.

If you cut a 35 yr old willow off at the ground it will very often die. It might well throw shoots the first year but the massive wound is a very effective entry point for fungi. If I were to cut them down and wanted them to come back again i would just push a load of cuttings in from the brash. As big as you like too.

On the end of the shaft there is a nut, then a washer then two big saucer type things that the blade gets clamped between. It is the outside diameter of those saucer type things that I am after.

Could anybody with a modern-ish pto driven sawbench measure the arbor diameter for me please? I think they are called arbors, the bit that clamps the blade in place on the end of the shaft. Would be grateful if you could, thanks.

If people paid a realistic price for their food farmers wouldn't turn to feeding digesters to try and make some cash. People prefer to pay more for bottled water than bottled milk. WTF is that about?

What Transit can carry 2 ton? Not being cocky or putting you down, I just want one myself. Have a big problem trying to fit my produce into a van that only carries 1.2t.

Have you checked that you need any certificate to use a saw on a farm? I thought farmworkers were exempt but i may be wrong.

It was a wet and windy night here on Friday so I was half expecting "visitors". Sure enough at half past midnight one of my alarm mines went off followed by a vehicle turning round and leaving. I live well off the beaten track and nobody else down my no through lane. I don't think they were sightseeing and I think they probably knew the cheap generator bloke that called recently. I expect they will be back too.

Biggest issue is that it doesn't stay in as long as hardwood unless you have a very good stove that you can shut right down. Next biggest issue is the sticky sap being brought in to the house. I weather mine for two years to get rid of the sticky stuff. Best part is there is very little ash. I like it and most of the firewood I use is softwood.

There's a whole thread on here with arbs bragging about their dangerous loads.

I bought an IH674 a month ago. I have yet to set eyes on it due to transport delays.

TractorData.com - information on all makes and models of tractors Tells you the hydraulic capacity of any tractor.

Australia is a lovely place apart from the weather and wildlife constantly trying to kill you. An amazing amount of open spaces and everyone crowds into the cities. UK is best imo as long as you can keep off the roads and avoid the army of people trying to stop you doing your job.

I like Sainsburys anyway, I like them even more now.

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I don't do it because I can't stand the disappointment of not winning.

I should also add that as a first attempt they are not so bad at all.

I am not sure if I helped you at all there, I never did think I was much of a teacher. Some good, basic pointers for open centre bush pruning; Think of the tree as a wheel, the trunk being the hub. Aim to get the growth radiating away from that hub just like the spokes of a wheel do. Remove all vertical growth and any that go the "wrong way" ie. grow towards the hub rather than away. Cut branches off altogether rather than mess about at the ends of them, this applies to branches up to about 5 years old. Avoid bigger cuts because silver leaf disease along with other nasties will get in. If you know a way to stop this then let me know because I don't. If you look closely at the branches you can see how old they are by counting the external marks which mark the ends of a years growth. At the end of the year the terminal bud will cap over for the winter, when it makes more extension growth the following year that terminal bud will leave a mark on the bark. Sometimes they can make 5-6 foot of growth in a year, sometimes it may be less than 5-6cm! It depends on the tree, year, weather, pruning, fertiliser etc etc. You are unlikely to get fruit on any wood before it's third year, that is not a hard and fast rule but a good general guide. If you cut off the younger branches every other year you won't get to the fruiting stage. Young (3-5 year) branches fruit better than older branches, you need to have a regime where the branches are replaced over the years to maintain that younger productive wood. This is where it starts to get more complicated and where making the tree in the garden look pretty takes on more importance than trying to get a profitable tree, unless you are a fruit grower. I hope that gives a bit more direction/help. I have been pruning apple trees for the last 35 years or so, I am still learning. The way I tackle them is to walk up to the tree and cut out all the bits that don't look like an apple tree. There is always a nice tree in there somewhere it is just a case of knowing what they should look like.

In my opinion apple trees in gardens should look nice, bear a few fruit just so you can say it cropped and be high enough to walk under with a mower or small enough that you can mow around them. Pruning should be to encourage replacement growth in order to keep the tree healthy and removal of unhealthy wood. However I am a professional fruit grower and the above is no more than my opinion. Further to that, without wanting to cause any offense, those trees look pretty awful (strictly from an apple growers viewpoint) I find it very difficult to explain pruning at the best of times never mind based on some photos of trees I have never seen but I will give it a go. I apologise for pointing out faults but in the same way you don't take a car to a mechanic for him to point out the good bits. The two big trees have been pruned in a way that encourages them ever upward, this satisfies the need to walk under with a mower but they don't need to keep going up. You are encouraging an almost separate tree/bush to develop on the end of each main limb, rather than a single balanced tree. You can see this particularly well in the first pic, each elongated limb could nearly be cut off and called a tree in it's own right. It is the nicest shaped one of them and is nicely open centred, it is just the elongation of each limb I don't really like to see. (as a commercial rather than amenity grower!) The big tree by the shed is just a big old tree that may just as well be left to it's own devices. The reason I say that is that to change it much would require big cuts being made and I find that to be a sure fire way of letting silver leaf in. Best left as big as it is. The smaller tree is neither centre leader or open centre. It also appears to have almost spiralling crossing branches, I view that as a fault. I have to say I have very limited experience with centre leaders so can't comment with any authority. Of the smaller remaining branches a lot of them have been reduced in length leaving a weaker side shoot. In my opinion it is better to reduce them by cutting them right off, shortening them in that way encourages them to stiffen and then produce stronger upright growth. Better to reduce them in number but leave them full length, they will then elongate naturally and "weep" over in a much more pleasing form. What you have done encourages zigzag growth which isn't so nice to look at and is difficult to manage in future. I will say they look better than the ones in the neighbours garden. I hope that has given food for thought rather than offense. I had decided not to reply in case it just came across as criticism, in the end I just couldn't help myself.

What happens if you don't? I expect the "if there is an accident....." kind of response but what if there isn't an accident? I note the word advise rather than insist.

If there is no mechanical damage it is either collar rot or crown rot. Both ultimately terminal.

Might sell you a few cheap stolen chainsaws too, and a robbed chipper etc.

I don't know of any remedy other than cutting it out, even that doesn't always work. Mercury based treatments used to be quite effective but for some reason you can't seem to get them any more.

From experience, pretty much guaranteed to get severe canker.