Peasgood

Well if you want some pvc patio doors for your log cabin just shout up.

Cost me £200 today to hire a skip for someones patios doors and windows and other crap that was kindly left in my gateway.

What makes you think I want it in my gateway? Not only am I blocked out of my field I also have to pay for it to be removed. Fed up with having to deal with someone else's crap.

There's quite a concentration of caravan dwellers in the Farndon area if you weren't aware. Wish I could be of more help but can offer the loan of an 020 top handle saw if it helps.

I do like SAME. Middle one is what I use most, a Dorado 100F. I goes like a go-cart on the road and has a surprising amount of poke for it's size. Hydraulic flow at 54 litres a minute has the splitter wizzing along.

Probably doesn't matter in this case.

See. I knew it was a quiz!

I was wondering where to post this pic from yesterday. Kiln dried, wrapped in torn plastic and left out in the rain to sell.

Is this part of some quiz you are doing? If it is then I bet the answer for the first one is "Oak" and the quiz setter has just been a bit lazy choosing the pic. The fact that the second and third are so easy makes me think the first one "should" be "Oak" (even if that is not what the picture is of)

Ash, Beech, Ash. Not 100% on the first one

They work very well as long as you get to it before it has been walked or driven on.

Search his content on here, this post sums it up I guess. https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/68288-softwood-tarring-up-flues/?do=findComment&comment=1057115

@renewablejohn had problems with his ESSE IIRC.

My guess is the very top of the flue gets cold and condensates solidify on that cold bit causing a restriction and almost a blockage. This leads to more soots and tars building up all the way down the flue which eventually catch fire. You can push a brush through the restriction but a brush won't clear it, you have to get up there and scrape. This seem particularly prevalent where the metal goes up to the very top. I think it just never warms up, especially at this time of year.

The two boost rockets that landed back almost simultaneously were impressive. The main centre rocket was not quite so impressive. It missed the landing pad by 300 metres after 2 of the three landing control boosters failed, it hit the water at 300 miles an hour exploded and damaged the boat by showering it with shrapnel. And they want to use them for space travel from city to city?

Not what I want to see on my apple trees but pretty nonetheless

It matters because the heat goes out of the chimney pot into the sky rather than staying (anywhere) in the house. I have had both types of fires over the years in various houses and although I like an open fire I would never have one.

The theory is that the impulse hardened teeth of blades such as the Gomtaro can't be sharpened because you will be taking off that outer hardening in the process. In practice I found the sharpening lasts as long as a new blade is sharp, or very similar. No doubt at some point you will get down to softer metal but if you can get a few more lives out of a blade why not.

I must be a common user because that's all I did. I think you'd be hard pushed to do anything more than that on blade with teeth as fine as a Gomtaro. It will be enough to get quite a bit more use out of a blunted blade anyway.

Have you ever tried? I wouldn't claim it as a skill, I just had a go and it worked out. If you look at the tooth you can see the flat plane that leads up to the pointy bit, the bit that catches your finger. That flat plane gets rounded or chipped on the pointy bit which makes it blunt. All you do is angle the file to take that surface down a bit, taking it down so the rounded or chipped edges are not there anymore. Literally 3-4 gentle strokes of the file on each tooth. It is fiddly especially if your eyesight is ageing and you have fat fingers. Having tried it in a vice I find it easier to just hold in my hand. Do all the teeth on one side and then turn it around for the other. Files cost naff all, less than £4 off ebay and compared to the price of a new blade it's a no brainer to at least have a go. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIAMOND-FEATHER-EDGE-TILE-FILE-SHAPING-REMOVING-EDGE-WOOD-FILE-85MM-UK-NEW-U203/272834200835?hash=item3f862f8503:g:YakAAOxy7nNTRF9G

The Zubat I got has the same tpi as the Sugoi XL according to what I can see. It all gets rather confusing with lots of variations within each model. I am using mine on anything from just under 2" upt to 6" or so but mostly 3-4" branches. I have some electric secateurs and they will do all the stuff upto nearly 2". It will do a neat cut on bigger stuff and also on smaller stuff if you are careful, Gomtaro is neater on the smaller stuff. As for sharpening, the Gomtaro is supposedly unsharpenable but I have successfully sharpened mine plenty of times using a cheap (fiver-ish) diamond feather file off Amazon. A bit of a fiddly job but 15 minutes work that results in "as new" sharpness. I'm no expert at such things, you can see the tooth profile so just file the top face flat to take out any blunt edge.

It wasn't aimed at anybody really, sorry if you thought it was. I'm a user of firewood rather than a buyer or seller and I never really get this softwood v hardwood thing as when they are dry they are usually both the same (ish). A different matter of course if you are a seller and all your customers insist on hardwood or big discount.

Willow and poplar are hardwood

I'm not convinced it is canker as it appears to have a callousing edge to it. Just cut it off a bit lower and it should be fine.

My heating, DHW and cooking is 95% leylandii. Only one my missus can light too.