Big Beech
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Everything posted by Big Beech
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For the price it should b sexy! Initially i went from a standard hit of walnut, then semi fancy, fancy, burr, master grade then ended up at exhibition quality It aomething ive wanted to do for a while and itsca one off so went all out. I wanted a new gun but thats 3k+ for something half ok but still no where near the quality of this bit of wood that i chose. After all that will be done (barrels reblacked,service,inletted, &stock machined) it will come in around 900, much better price in my mind. Thats how ive aold it to the accountant
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my guess would be Teak oil?
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cool!!
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Guys, just a heads up, firstly to say thanks for the input re oils etc. on the other thread but also to say that the wood will soon be finding its way across the Atlantic towards my door cant wait to get my project underway, and will keep a photo journey as the stock and gun develops its journey. in case some missed the wood some more images. if anyone wants any quailty timber than have a look at woodnut.com
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as i read it, import and export. neither of which has been or is going to be done.
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urggh, no.v:biggrin: dont trust myself with something that expensive. it will be cut on a duplicating machine, but i will need to inlet the action and sand and finish etc.
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Thanks.
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Yes aware of so called oil finish being or having a wiping varnish type effect. I also beleive that birchwood n caseys true oil gunstock oil is on those lines. LFO looks to have a much deeper lustre to it where as tru oil looks like a higher varnish content. Woodworks, wat was your finishing method?
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Sweet chestnut colour. Do u have a b4 image?
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More than the gun is worth, but cheaper than a new gun Its also being re blued, and if any cash left over case colour hardend as well My view was if i wanted a decent berretta it wud b 6k but stil factory grade wood. This way i get wat i want for 1300
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What, like this bit Unfortunately, no
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anyone tell what timber it is?
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In persuance of a new gunstock it looks like i may have found my blank. Having used BLO in the past i ve found lighter areas take on a yellow tint. Most gun stockers use true oil but this is also a mix blend with an unkown BLO content. What oils do cabinet makers etc use so as to keep the natural colouration of the timber. Ive attached the blank image, they have used alcohol as there wipe so as not to stain the timber wuth water marks. The colour shown is what i want but with an oil finish. Ideas gentlemen please
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Wasnt he in Hucklebury Finn?
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Mate boughf 1 few weeks back. Gr8 saw
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good for Clogs, and water side revetment work.
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Have since spoken with my stocker and whilst a bit if burr us ok, best not for it to be all burr. This piece has since sold. So just awaitin to see what comes up next. In terms of oil finishez tru oil seems well regarded. Are there any oils which dont stain light colours yellowy like linseed or tung oil does.?
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Sell butts whole. Loads if local mills if u look around.
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Thx. Thinkin the wax may be a good option. Almost infinate colour pallette with those stix. Havnt decided wat timber yet mind. The blank shown is a tad tight on thickness.
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Hi Chaps, i am looking at importing a new gunstock blank, and at this stage i am thinking a bit of wood with some burr in may look a tad tasty. but how would you go about filling these small pits allowing for a oil finished stock? ive worked some oak before and have just sanded back to a finish and it appears great, but wondering if out shooting in the winter would this be a cause for concern? or would ample coats of oil finish protect these areas?
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thanks Jon, looking in to my options at the moment s
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i would not concrete in posts. will rot pretty quickly, even if is oak. ive also heard green oak rots faster as well!
