mikerecike

is it well and truly bolted on - i tried to tune a strimmer last night that couldn't reach max revs - saw later that the bolts were loose

Rich - my intuition is telling me it's something to do with the exhaust and back presure - have you checked that side? Talk about rallying the troops! There's some good stuff going on here.

Will it run if you don't fully close the fuel cap?

new plug? plug gap? flywheel gap?

I'm sure Barrie probably uses such a thing - i saw on a stihl video recently a sheet that was like a checklist for saw servicing - anybody got a copy they can share?- all contributes to what's a reasonable charge debate

I think you tune electric saws by altering the length of the governor springs

Non chainsaw alert!! Ryobi strimmer – new fuel lines, primer bulb, gaskets and dias. Zama C1U Thought the gaskets and dias would sort the not holding pressure prob – no. The flow went in the fuel pump side and straight out the metering side – glass jar showed this up. Problem was the metering lever height – bent it up which seated the needle and fired it up last night – tuning later tonight. How do they get so bent out of correct position? Not quite spuds led zep in the modding/porting zone but I am gonna open the painfully small exhaust outlet under the shroud – gotta start somewhere! And finally picked this Hayterette up at a boot fair at the weekend – it was getting one of these running again last year (from a pile of scrap metal) that was the equivalent of the first hit of crack cocaine for my engine addiction. Oil-less life until that point. Sold it soon after and regretted it ever since. This is early 60’s vintage – same as me – got a lovely look in my opinion. Carb clean, points clean and gap (there was no spark), rebuild the recoil and craft some tabs to keep the spring in and off she went phut phut phut – cut an acre of field – joy.

yep i'll echo that - these linkages always catch me out - good pics really help

Mityvac MV8500 I use Rich - [ame=http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mityvac-MYMV8500-Silverline-Automotive-Diagnostic/dp/B004BYGSJI/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1362403385&sr=1-2]Mityvac MYMV8500 Silverline Elite Automotive Repair and Diagnostic Kit: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike[/ame]

pmsl

All good stuff to deepen the understanding - the recordings are a real good idea - cheers Tintin

I need to digest that and experiment with it - thanks a lot Spud - that's the first time i've had that explained - appreciated

please remind me what 'fourstroking' actually is. I'm sure I'm tuning to it but have no idea what the term refers to or how to confirm it?? cheers

Thanks Bill, Spud and Barrie- that's helpful - appreciated

Am guessing the metal carbs would be fine - any experience/wisdom re: US cleaning the briggs plastic tank top carbs in US cleaner? cheers

meant to ask you spud - you said you'd upgraded your us cleaner in an earlier post - what model did you go for? still happy with it? Cheers

Brilliant photos - never done that job - would have no hesitation having a go after this post - cheers barrie - this site is superb - given me so much confidence to get stuck in. Will do a bit of research on heli-coiling - cheers

cheers Spud - metering diaphragm was knackd - no flex in it, like a piece of cardboard- replaced it and runs like a new saw. So, it was holding pressure when flexed one way but too stiff to flex back after opening the needle and so constant flloding. Before I had the pressure tester I used to change all dias and gaskets as a matter of course - but that's expensive if they're fine - this is a helpful reminder to double check their condition. Am wondering is there any way to recondition a metering diaphragm that's gone 'card-boardy'? Anybody - it's a Makita DCS34 - when I google it's telling me this is a commercial grade saw? is that right? Certainly cuts with oomph. Cheers

Spud: DONATELife is tough but it's tougher when you're stupid If you liked the advice or it saved you money, how about making a donation to Arbtalk - scroll to the bottom of the page and click on the donate button Where is the donate button - can't find it - I reckon I'm in debit at the mo!

Thanks Spud - thats helpful - will double check gaskets and metering arm - yes fuel seemed to be pouring out (misting from cylinder) even with both fully closed - otherwise I set them for starters at 1 turn each. Was just wondering this isn't one of those carbs like the ms200t one that has that accellerator pump that can malfunction?? It's a C1Q DM9A 2BA. Ta

cheers lakey - ordered the tool today- i know i've got some mickey mouse bits and stones - if you can recommend any others bear it in mind all the best

cheers spud pressure tested the carb - that's what's throwing me - held pressure no probs - as sson as it was on the saw and i pulled it over petrol everywhere - could you have all of the above Leaking needle valve or metering arm set too high - possible the diaphragm spacer isn't between the diaphragm and the carb body! and pressure test still be fine?

Flooding Carb (Zama C1Q DM9A 2BA) on this Makita /Dolmar DC34 Got the saw with a crank case literally full of fuel - dripping out of exhaust when turned over - no firing - too wet but lovely spark. Removed carb - pressure test failed - ultrasonicd - did not replace any diaphragms / gaskets /needles. Reassembled - held 8psi - no probs - refitted - exactly the same issue. Plug removed - turn over - fuel mist pouring out of spark plug hole and literally running back into the air filter tube - clearly just pouring into cylinder - apparently not stopping. Have a I missed a test - reseating?? - never really done that - do i need a new carb kit - it as if the petrol goes straight through the carb - like an open channel. Welch plugs? Cheers folks