mikerecike
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Everything posted by mikerecike
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ok both - and good to know about the points - ouch on the price anybody got an old 1 sitting around??? mike
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032 AV that runs great, but stalls after cutting in wood briefly - will seemingly idle all day. The stop is almst instantaneous - no warning - just sudden still death of engine. Take HT lead and plug out and there's no spark. Leave it to cool for half hour and the spark returns. Will have to dive in and guessing there may be points? Any previous experience of this sudden cutting out? Could it be related to points or coil? Scanning the net I'm not the first to get this but haven't come across any solution. Cheers
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Made me think of this. “The test of the machine is the satisfaction it gives you. There isn't any other test. If the machine produces tranquility it's right. If it disturbs you it's wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed.” ― Robert M. Pirsig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values I've spent hours re-painting old mowers in odd colours - the interesting thing I've found , like cleaning kit, is that it forces you to really look at what you're re-painting / cleaning - that can only be a good thing IMO. Personally I like the home made blue. Armani blue would be the same as stihl orange - an advertisement.
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off into the sunset......
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gotcha spud cheers - i never feel totally comfortable that i'm actually hitting the wire in the middle of the ht lead with that little spring - is there a trick?
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Anybody recommend a non extortionate supplier that delivers in uk- prefer to buy bulk. Looking at mo for some oregon 07-262 1/6 x 1/8 cheers chaps
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5 X UNIVERSAL POREX FUEL FILTER 3.5MM CHAINSAW STRIMMER | eBay what I use Rich
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What was wrong with the HT lead spud and do they just screw in on huskys? I bought some 7mm ht lead recently just in case - is that the size to go for?
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SORTED:thumbup: - I'll save the crank seals for another saw - the impulse rubber insert was the culpit. Runs a dream now - after first f..up when i refitted eveything and managed to pinch the new fuel line under the white plastic carb mounting plate - no fuel. Cheers spud and barrie for the diagnosis and rich and co for the other tips Appreciated
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greenstripe were recommended to me - spoke to them yesterday - very helpful
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yes if i can get under it a puller might do it - cheers a lot spud
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That is really helpful Barrie - thank you
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This what the manual says - just wonder if there's a work around anyone? Using oil pump drive gear puller P/N 5025026-01 and sleeve P/N 5025099-01, remove the gear from the crankshaft. Separate and clean the oil pump components. Exchange worn or damaged parts. Assembly Thread the oil pump drive gear into the sleeve P/N 502 5099-01 until the end of the gear is flush with the end of the sleeve. Assemble the puller P/N 5025026-01 to the sleeve without the center bolt. Using a brass or plastic faced mallet, drive the gear onto the crankshaft After removing the tool, make sure the drive gear is flush against the shoulder on crankshaft.
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Okey doke - I'm looking at the manual too and can now see that the oil pump worm gear sits over the crankshaft - this is wahat threw me today. It says you need a special husky tool to take it off - any redneck way? cheers spud
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Cheers spud - seems like me and the 42 have exactly the same symptom. Ordered new induction hose today and crank seals (never done that job) and have been struggling all night to pressure test the saw. Can't seem to find a satsfactory way to close the carb end - so many layers on this between the carb and cylinder. Should i be taking it all off and trying to bung the oval hole? With what? How? It all looks so easy to do Beginning to think I should have ordered a carb boot too - but they were 14 quid with post and it seemed ok?? Also looking at the clutch side crank seal looks like i'll have to do a lot of dismantling to get at it. Again help appreciated - I can see this is going to lack value economically but sure is learning and it's the first husky - i really like the style/construction mike
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Well after finally figuring out how to get that white plate off! I found the impulse tube and it seems fine - it doesn't seem to be sticking out far? is that right - and i guess the seal is made when the white plate with tube goes back and presses against the inside of that impulse tube - pushes it against the hole in the cylinder? Fitted a new fuel line and filter just in case that was drwing in air. Prob is that racy lean type idle - can't tune - chain suddenly races. Carb in us cleaner - filter was a bit rustyish - could that have caused these symptoms? Also metering lever marginally low - could that have caused that lean running Whilstit's apart at this stage is there anything else I should check - should i put some hylomar or something around outside of impulse tube? cheers folks mike
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cheers Bill - I haven't invested in a plastic welder yet - what kit do you use?
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Flymo Hover Tecumseh 2 stroke mower - always thought they were a bit of a joke until i sorted this non-runner. No spark - dirty points. No fuel - blocked jet. Amazing thing - powerful and just glides around like magic. Wondering of it's possible to plastic weld a crack in the deck? or to ally plate it? I'm impresed.
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From the album: mikespics
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From the album: mikespics
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cheers barrie
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Thanks a lot Barrie (and pressurisers)- you may well have saved me hours - we'll see - mine is a 36 - is it close to a 136 in design? Ta
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Much appreciated Spud - will have a shufty - cheers
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Any help really appreciated - this is my first fix of this nature so too much information way preferred:thumbup:
