mikerecike

and don't you just love them chinese engines - they drove me round the bend a few months ago - without any handle bar adjustment

nice one amfell - cheers - re: points or electronic - any idea how i date it - its a TS350 Super struggling to get that cone off right now edit - i suppose i can just get the flywheel off

My second concrete saw - enjoying these. All this chainsaw learning very transferable. Sadly neglected TS350 - sat in a barn for 4 years when it was allegedly running.. Non-runner - no spark, will investigate tomorrow. Thought it was points but apparently electronic unit under the flywheel. Maybe there's a shortsomewhere or the spark plug fitting is faulty. Clutch seems seized as blade turns when flywheel rotated. Haven't looked at the carb yet. I'll be keeping this so nice little project. If anybodys been here before with a TS350 any pointers appreciated. Exhaust off and piston looks immaculate - 95psi compression - not sure where that stands with one of these.

subscribed. keep em coming Barrie

what's your idea of tank filter ok? i've found the slightest bit of resistance when i blow or suck in it directly is a red light - unless you've fitted a brand new one I'd double check

Not sure of the model Eddy, any particular reason?. It's gone now. Wise and Spud - another insight into something that I didn't know that I didn't know. Cheers. ps: upe youres sire spud

Partner stone saw - concretions (yep that is a real word spud!) attached to flywheel and other areas removed. Was starving of fuel, 30 pulls to start, no revs- new fuel filter, plug and general clean up - now starts and runs a dream. First one of these - new notch on the bed post. Tillotson carb seemed not to have HL adjustment - holes were filled in with brass caps - there was one big brass screw on other side of carb like a jet - as it was running so well I didn't want to fix a prob that wasn't there.

thank god for arbtalk

running a treat - just on the margins of too much vacuum created I'd say - I found the vent - through a screw holding the AV mount in. If i cut a slit up one side of the screw do you think it would still hold? cheers ALSO - way too much oil seems to be running straight down the bar to the base of the saw - haven't adjusted the pump yet - apparently its a screw to open or shut - any fix / solution / tip appreciated. cheers spud and folks

aha - I really wasn't sure if I was winging it there - seems I was! Okey doke will take you up on that - cheers spud one thing i do want to know though is how does the fuel tank vent? a bit of intuition (& a first stage varnicised tongue from a mouth full of petrol) is giving me the impression it's not venting right??

Non-running Sachs Dolmar 100. New fuel line and filter as a starter for 10. Had her running with a squirt down the carb - pulled fuel line out to find a cracked bodged pipe join. Carb US cleaned - very varnicised. Back together tonight to see if we have lift off.

Not sure exactly what you're planning here Rich but just having done that 017 it seems like blowing through the oil outlet hole with compressed air - something I've done in the past, with the oil pump still in situ, is only going to blow any crud in that tube or passage back into the oil pump? Was thinking then I should not be doing that?

That's what I wanted to hear to be honest Spud - I know you said it somewhere before, just didn't trust my memory - thank you. And the thing is, using Stihl oil at that dilution works out cheaper than most of the relative crap I've been using.

50:1 - does it only apply to stihl tools? Can i use this mixed at 50:1 in non-stihl strimmers/saws i used other oil in at 25:1? Sorry if that's a basic one.

Went for it, pump pulled out, cleaned out and all of the above - nice lines of oil up the wall - feel chuffed. Even the AV rubbers surrendered! Another first thanks to the support given here. Cheers chaps, cheers Arbtalk

were you turning it by drill or recoil? - I have had a coil give nothing with an electric drill turn over and be fine with a manual pull - I imagine they operate best / properly at certain speeds of rotation

OK so Rich has said it'll be obvious if the pump is working when i get it out. The manual suggests a fancy leverage tool - can i just screw a bolt into it and pull it out manually? When it's out what am i looking for? Before taking it out should i see some movement when i look into the oiler and turn the worm gear manually? Not sure how these pumps are made. cheers

Hi Spud If you mean by oiler pinion arm the paperclip looking thing under the clutch, that fits into the notch in the clutch, attached to the nylon sleeve with the gear that meshes with the pump - that appears to be firm enough round the top of the nylon and not slipping - is that the bit you meant? Rich Had oil tank out and oil feed line isn't cracked. I should have really looked when i was taking it apart but i'm not sure it was sitting square against the pump hole and under a little lip to hold it tight. Maybe if i reset it it might give the pressure to pump through onto the bar - it seems to pump fine with no bar on - gentle pulsing dribble (BUT with air bubbles - maybe the leak is from the tube into the saw case as mentioned above - that would draw the air in and create the bubbles?? i imagine) Bloody performance getting the handle off - wrestling with the AV mounts - any tips out there? cheers chaps - much appreciated as usual.Mike while its apart is there any test i can/should do on the pump itself - getting it out may be interesting - have found a small bolt that seems to thread into it - i guess ive just got to pull it out somehow? there's a notch/hole next to the thread - i guess thats where the oil is forced to the outlet pipe - should i give that a shot of carb cleaner?

its a 2000 model