mikerecike
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Everything posted by mikerecike
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Thanks gardenkit. I was the sissy! Thanks for the answer - gave me the motivation to give it another pull and as it was happening with the spark plug disconnected I guessed it wasn't a coil issue - a couple of grin and bear it pulls and she fired up beautifully. If you're only used to smallish saws it's another league - getting the feel. Anyway after running it seems to have gotten easier - maybe just standing for years caused the resistance. thanks. On same saw the chain is running at an idle of 1200rpm according to my tiny tach - manual says it shouldnt turn untill 3000ish rpm - does this mean the clutch needs attention? worn springs? thanks folks
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Hi all Thinking of investing in an US cleaner and contemplating a new tach (currrently have a 3 quid chinese tiny tach thing - it may be spot on - dunno??). Any guidance recommendation for a US cleaner for carbs and a decent tach (if worth it - opinion canvassed) Does a US cleaner mean you don't use carb cleaner - what's the reason for using one? Many thanks
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shocking bench I know
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From the album: mikespics
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What a lovely looking saw - same stable as my old 010 AV E I imagine. Trouble is when I'm pulling recoil compression seems too great - or as if it's going to kickback - horrible thing to pull. With spark plug out pulls over normally and good spark. Is it: Just fierce compression and grin and bear it A broken flywheel key - knocking out the timing? Something to do with the coil/electronic ignition? can the timing get put out on these coils and they still spark fine? Sorry if I'm obviously barkin up the wrong tree - this is the first 'big' saw I've had. Ps - what do you think of this saw? compared to the stihl 039 which i acquired at the same time? Thanks folks
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Thank you for these comprehensive replies - it is much appreciated. When you are a little less bored rest assured it is getting read and appreciated. Testing directly into the fuel pick up in the carb is a great diagnostic tool to know about. You guys should put this stuff in a generic manual. I'm really keen to learn. Thanks again. Superb forum. Mike
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Makita DBC 4010 brushcutter on my floor whilst i sort out a bench. Attempting my first ever leakdown test with some home made gear. Absolutely refusing to hold any pressure with exhaust and intake blocked and air pumped through modified sparkplug - i guess that means the crank case is leaking and I need to tear down further?
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From the album: mikespics
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Does it mean that even if it holds 10psi (which is as far as i've got with this test) it could still be a malfunctioning carb if the pop off and re-seating isn't right? Just to confirm (I've never pumped a carb to 20ish psi imagining that the diaphragms would break) you pump beyond the 10 to 20 - observe it pop then fall immediately back to a holding at 10psi? Is this a standard and recommended test or is there any danger of damaging dias/gaskets? What are the symptoms of a carb that wont pop at 20 or wont reseat at 10. I'm struggling with a strimmer carb at the moment that spits fuel out of the air filter side when I try to fire the engine (pull the recoil) - don't know if this is related to above discussion? Thank you folks Mike
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Thanks a lot will - i saw that but don't really want to spend 15 quid for it if i can help it - and i presume that one's had a bit of use too. Reply much appreciated though.
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First proper post here - looks a great forum - loads of knowledge around - brill. Trying to find a brake band for one of these - anybody know a UK supplier/dealer in brake bands? Can't believe how many houses I've been round. I think the part no: is 301037. Frustraaaaaaaaaaating. The other saw even lower down the food chain is a B&Q job - exactly same story - brake band - peerformance pro 42cccsa Thanks folks
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Had a similar problem with a DCS - tried everything - finally tightened up carburettor retaining nuts and hey presto - the carb had come loose and was leaking at the gasket - worth checking - I do it as a first check now to eliminate that potential issue. Good luck
