mikerecike
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Everything posted by mikerecike
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New diaphragms & gaskets. Ultrasonic clean. New fuel line & filter. Will only rev if virtually fully choked. No hidden adjustment screw on this carb: WYL 52A 838. If I could find a replacement carb I'd prob change it. VID_20240702_175133.mp4 What I've found seems to have primer bulb and return nozzle. Or no bulb & still return nozzle. Anybody dealt with one of these? I raised metering lever thinking it was struggling to get fuel - no change. In the vid forward is full choke. VID_20240702_175133.mp4 VID_20240702_175133_0_COMPRESSED.mp4
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Recently fitted one of these chinese carbs. Before disassembling to check does anybody know if these caps are limiters? I assumed they were just like a screwdriver funnel to make tuning easier? Cheers.
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Carb cleaned - no difference. It turned out to be a compound issue - spark & fuel. Spark seemed weak. Swapped out the old spring cap for a crimped cap. Spark miles better. Bought my first fully adjustable H/L Chinese carb to replace the Stihl Zama. New fuel lines & filter & she's back on form - poss slightly better for not being forced to run too rich. Still takes too many pulls to start but I can live with that. Quite chuffed we're back in business.
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Thank you for flagging that lot up. Thanks to previous contributors too. Gonna clean the carb as step 1.
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Admittedly it's done some mileage but only has 1 L screw for tuning. What's the knack with this / what's the tuning process. Keeps dying / bogging when revd up. Can't find a sweet spot with screwdriver. Haven't had the carb off for a clean yet but tempted to buy a Chinese carb with H&L screws. Access is currently only for the L with a screwdriver so may need to alter the external grommet/ dust cover to access both. This carb is a Zama Stihl. Good idea to change? Thanks folks.
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That looks really promising, cheers. - can't see any immediately available .....
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Yep new to me too. The circumference fits a couple of carb screwdrivers I have but the hole does not.At first I thought it was like one of those EPA plastic obstructor caps but scratched it & it's all metal. Onwards .... 👍
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All good suggestions - thankyou MacPherson - appreciated
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Better pic of the H screw. Certainly don't have that screwdriver - (if anyone can identify it)
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Cheers Spud. Appreciated. I will check the fuel filter and then try to get a suitable tool in to adjust that black high screw on the side - anti clockwise to richen. If still prob I'll dismantle the carb & check / clean that gauze filter.
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So that's the screw to richen the mixture then I guess - I'll take another pic tomorrow & see if any of my carb screwdrivers fit. Cheers.
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Any help on how to adjust this (presumably Chinese) carb on Screwfix titan multi tool pls. Have adjusted other barrel carbs down the top in the past by digging out a plug and then using micro flathead. This seems to have its own design. Also has side screw??as pictured. Not sure what that does. Cheers folks. ( It's starved of fuel & so dying at full throttle).
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Cheers Ratman - not sure but closest so far - cheers - the tip is not the same & the shaft seems thicker. (ordered one to try). What is great about mine is that it stores energy like a spring (you can feel shaft twist slightly) then unleashes it. The full width head (once it opens out it doesn't come back in) also seems to deliver more torgue . I read a paper on this years ago & that bit of extra width works wonders Had a minor meltdown a couple of yrs ago when I mislaid it
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Mower blade attachment keeps failing
mikerecike replied to Paul in the woods's topic in Maintenance help
Often you need a Belleville washer, not a normal washer. A Belleville washer looks like a washer but is more of a coned spring - they're used for a reason. -
Yep - typo - guessing it's from the Wera stable. Had a look at the Wera website - nothing like it there. Cheers.
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Best small engine screwdriver needs replacing. (there's an exciting topic). Weraltt Kraftform Vanadin Germany . Massive amount of torque because of the flare (which doesn't taper back in). Can't find anything like this online. It was originally covered in red insulation which I cut off - so maybe electrical screwdriver? Any doctors of screwdriverology out there? Alternative? Shaft 125mm, Tip Thickness about1.2mm. Width at flare 5.5mm.
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Cheers for that - just ordered. Yep I have some amazing Wera screwdrivers & my hex & torx keys are Facom (recommended by @Gardenkit years ago ) - also brill.
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Mineral Oil Based Grease? better than copper anti sieze for steel bolts into alloy engine parts apparently. Can somebody recommend a named mineral oil based grease that I can buy on Ebay / Amazon pls? OR is the lithium based grease which I seem to have the most of a better bet than copper for this application? Ta.
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Well, admitting it is the first step to recovery ?
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Appreciated - didn't realise this. I'll have a shufty to see what greases I've got. Wondering if my tub of castrol grease is mineral based - will need to check. Any thoughts on aluminium anti seize grease? Thanks a lot.
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Cheers - I used a bit of copper grease on the threads - is there a better option?
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BINGO! - Torx bit, medium hammer persuasion, small ratchet, lots of downward pressure. So, got the muffler off & as suspected carbon build up outside exhaust port explained lack of oomph. Cleaned off & now revving right up. Love that exhaust crack you get when things are clean. Thanks a lot folks - getting support here always gives me a second wind to have another go at my maintenance / repairs.
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know what you mean - cheers - appreciated
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interesting! - cheers
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cheers Ratman - when I read 'modify', in my head I'm hearing 'butcher' - will get more serious with the torx / spline options - ta
