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mikerecike

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Everything posted by mikerecike

  1. That looks really promising, cheers. - can't see any immediately available .....
  2. Yep new to me too. The circumference fits a couple of carb screwdrivers I have but the hole does not.At first I thought it was like one of those EPA plastic obstructor caps but scratched it & it's all metal. Onwards .... 👍
  3. All good suggestions - thankyou MacPherson - appreciated
  4. Better pic of the H screw. Certainly don't have that screwdriver - (if anyone can identify it)
  5. Cheers Spud. Appreciated. I will check the fuel filter and then try to get a suitable tool in to adjust that black high screw on the side - anti clockwise to richen. If still prob I'll dismantle the carb & check / clean that gauze filter.
  6. So that's the screw to richen the mixture then I guess - I'll take another pic tomorrow & see if any of my carb screwdrivers fit. Cheers.
  7. Any help on how to adjust this (presumably Chinese) carb on Screwfix titan multi tool pls. Have adjusted other barrel carbs down the top in the past by digging out a plug and then using micro flathead. This seems to have its own design. Also has side screw??as pictured. Not sure what that does. Cheers folks. ( It's starved of fuel & so dying at full throttle).
  8. Cheers Ratman - not sure but closest so far - cheers - the tip is not the same & the shaft seems thicker. (ordered one to try). What is great about mine is that it stores energy like a spring (you can feel shaft twist slightly) then unleashes it. The full width head (once it opens out it doesn't come back in) also seems to deliver more torgue . I read a paper on this years ago & that bit of extra width works wonders Had a minor meltdown a couple of yrs ago when I mislaid it
  9. Often you need a Belleville washer, not a normal washer. A Belleville washer looks like a washer but is more of a coned spring - they're used for a reason.
  10. Yep - typo - guessing it's from the Wera stable. Had a look at the Wera website - nothing like it there. Cheers.
  11. Best small engine screwdriver needs replacing. (there's an exciting topic). Weraltt Kraftform Vanadin Germany . Massive amount of torque because of the flare (which doesn't taper back in). Can't find anything like this online. It was originally covered in red insulation which I cut off - so maybe electrical screwdriver? Any doctors of screwdriverology out there? Alternative? Shaft 125mm, Tip Thickness about1.2mm. Width at flare 5.5mm.
  12. Cheers for that - just ordered. Yep I have some amazing Wera screwdrivers & my hex & torx keys are Facom (recommended by @Gardenkit years ago ) - also brill.
  13. Mineral Oil Based Grease? better than copper anti sieze for steel bolts into alloy engine parts apparently. Can somebody recommend a named mineral oil based grease that I can buy on Ebay / Amazon pls? OR is the lithium based grease which I seem to have the most of a better bet than copper for this application? Ta.
  14. Well, admitting it is the first step to recovery ?
  15. Appreciated - didn't realise this. I'll have a shufty to see what greases I've got. Wondering if my tub of castrol grease is mineral based - will need to check. Any thoughts on aluminium anti seize grease? Thanks a lot.
  16. Cheers - I used a bit of copper grease on the threads - is there a better option?
  17. BINGO! - Torx bit, medium hammer persuasion, small ratchet, lots of downward pressure. So, got the muffler off & as suspected carbon build up outside exhaust port explained lack of oomph. Cleaned off & now revving right up. Love that exhaust crack you get when things are clean. Thanks a lot folks - getting support here always gives me a second wind to have another go at my maintenance / repairs.
  18. know what you mean - cheers - appreciated
  19. cheers Ratman - when I read 'modify', in my head I'm hearing 'butcher' - will get more serious with the torx / spline options - ta
  20. cheers - gotta do something that doesn't shock downwards too much as it's seated in soft chinese alloy probably
  21. If it was into steel I'd go to town but A. It's buried down a plastic / flammable hole, & B. It's screwed into a probably very soft alloy above the cylinder head :0
  22. Bolt holding all the plastic strimmer cowling on. Down a hole so tricky to access. Any tips? Thanks folks.
  23. That's an ace explanation Barrie - I was wondering what that white tail was - thank you. So, pressure in the float chamber forces the fuel up the jet (cartridge) into the throat where it gets sucked into the cylinder by the turning over of the engine. I was a bit confused because I've mostly worked on L Heads where clearances are specd differently - inlet/exhaust - from what I could see for other OHVs they seemed to be set to the same? Thank you
  24. Can't seem to find any valve clearance specs (OHV) or service manuals for these newish Briggs lawnmower engines. Any help / tips appreciated. Difficult to start because primer not doing its job - pulled it out & white ring badly distorted so I guess it wasn't making the seal needed? New bulb & ring ordered. (Fires first time with a squirt into the carb directly so am assuming the distorted plastic ring was breaking the air seal needed to suck fuel?)

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