mikerecike
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Everything posted by mikerecike
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Running erratically and over revving symptomatic of air leek. Carb cleaned and new manifold gasket made. Resealed cylinder with Dirko. Still lame and over revving.Pressure and vac test show<d leak in recoil side crank seal. Couple of questions -I can see bearings now seal removed should I white lithium grease them before replacing seal? Second Q. Number I can see on seal is AD0587E -25MM Outside diabetes. Can't seem to find that number online -any suggestions re:supplier?
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Done.Tried just doing just the rear belt - hopeless - worse actually. 2 new belts and feels Formula 1 comparatively. Even managed it without removing deck. Thanks again for your help Barrie that's a first for me.Chuffed.
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Was hoping you weren't going to say that! This'll be fun.
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Thanks a lot Barrie. Appreciated. Yes it's the rear one.If I'm feeling confident I'll do both.
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Anybody (Barrie) know what gear drive belt I need to buy for this? I changed the blade drive belt last yr and number is in pic -don't know if that's any help? I painted over the model number panel. It's MTD Lawn flite 11hp brings. Also do I have to remove deck to change the gear belt? Any tips ?(not bin it) Thanks.
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Second pressure washer - planned obsolescence? Metal meshed with plastic or is there a reason ? Like to save the motor if something malfunctions? PS any pressure washer anoraks out there know about what hardness of o rings should be used -70 or 90?? If anybody got a service manual pdf for electric p ressure w ashers I'd enjoy the read.
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Sounds like a carb tuning /fuel issue to me. After changing the spark plug and fuel filter I'd get somebody who knows how to tune a carb do it and get them to tell you what they are doing. If it dies just idling on the floor I tend to increase idle adjustment so I have half a chance at adjusting the carb.Then I'd find the low screw highest rev point. Then I'd rev machine and adjust high screw to max revs and then richen maybe an eighth of a turn.Finally I'd readjust idle to stop cutters moving but keep it ticking over. Then I'd test start and rev and then I'd test it from cold and adjust accordingly. That's IF it was a fuel / carb adjustment issue. These are the basics to give you half a chance and assuming you still have decent compression and a decent spark.
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Thanks chaps. Kilrock looks useful.
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Got a couple of pressure washers I'd like to get back in business. What would you use to clean this sort of lime?? scale.
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Yep even with the jig and screw I wasn't impressed.
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Here's one that Barrie with a keen scientific eye will appreciate REDNECK CRANKSHAFT STRAIGHTENING:
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Fűnyírómotor főtengelyének egyengetése (Lawn Crankshaft straightening): interesting
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The difference between involvement and commitment is like bacon and eggs. The chicken is involved; the pig is committed.
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Getting the words right on these flyers - credibility, authority, professionalism - is the difference between an instant binning and a proper consideration.
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What is the cause of the electric start prob barrie? Can't quite work out from pic? Fried? Tarry?
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McCulloch - was there ever a good one ?!
mikerecike replied to TimberCutterDartmoor's topic in Chainsaws
Ordered my second hand copy from Amazon.11 quid in all from Uk.Could have got it cheaper from USA but keen to get into it. -
How far did you move coil away? I use a business card for gap.Loosen coil.Drop card between coil and flywheel.Let flywheel magnets attract coil.With card still in tighten coil down then remove card.Done. Warm start does sound like a coil problem as bill says. I'd also double check fuel tank is venting properly.
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McCulloch - was there ever a good one ?!
mikerecike replied to TimberCutterDartmoor's topic in Chainsaws
Just ordered a copy.Looking forward to that.Nice one chaps. -
McCulloch - was there ever a good one ?!
mikerecike replied to TimberCutterDartmoor's topic in Chainsaws
Mcculloch has a very solid pedigree - responsible for many innovations which revolutionised logging.In 1948 they introduced the first diaphragm carburettor to replace bowl and float - later developed by Tillotson into the carbs we all recognise today. This meant a major reduction in weight as the cutting head no longer had to be swivelled to keep the bowl upright whilst cutting.I seem to recall that the engine alloys used today owe much to Mcculloch experiments -they made lightweight drone plane engines for the USAAF to shoot down. They may be naff today but it was not always the case. -
sawjockeyprconsultant.com - like it 👍👍 btw have you tried onion skin crank seals?👍👍
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That is excellent Bill.Cheers.
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Another good one, nice one Barrie👍👍
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I had success with this scenario on a couple of hedgetrimmers following Spud's advice.It's the nut doing the holding work, the key is for the timing.
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Excellent Bill.Personally I trained with Spud at the royal college of gynaecologists.This is a great new way.Cheers.
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Yep yodel are definitely the worst from what I've seen
