mikerecike
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Everything posted by mikerecike
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Under pressure to find a second hand mower for mother in law - Ryobi OHV has popped up - my gut says no as I'm likely to be maintaining it - any advice?
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Satellite is no good if you do any biz over Skype. Sent from my SM-N9005 using Arbtalk mobile app
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Thanks Eric, Harry & Spud - good stuff - was asking this for my mate (although I would've bought the ebay special too) good to know - much appreciated.
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FS55 Strimmer 2006 Backfire through carb Replaced a 4140 400 1303a coil with a 4140 400 1308 from ebay which allegedly replaces it. Great spark with plug outside cylinder but only backfires once through carb when rebuilt properly and won't run. Is that a faulty coil?
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Honda izy Mower Slow Idle & Weak Self Propel
mikerecike replied to mikerecike's topic in Maintenance help
Excellent Barrie - thanks very much - yeh it's been ages! (and I was hoping you'd be manning the customer service dept tonight ) Noted about revs - so potentially a bit of metal- bending on that spring when I reset the throttle cable for the choke to properly engage. I'm gonna have another look at belt. Thanks again. -
Managed to get idle up to 3000rpm by raising the star headed screw and pulling the throttle cable back about 3mm into the clamp. Is that the only way to do it - feels like there's nowhere left to go and the choke doesn't have that 'nice locking feeling' as you shift the throttle control forward. Could it just be tired springs all round? Should I reset the big governor arm (undo then clockwise turn the centre scew? ) Secondly - in pic of self propel cable fitting - the more it's screwed out the more engaged the drive belt? Doesn't look like there's much play left to me - not changed in years - stretching of cable or belt the cause of a slow propel? Thank you.
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Fake - trigger | fuel/oil caps | front handle metal | recoil plastic - they're the giveaways in my opinion
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No luck folks. Got it out - new carb kit but needle just won't seat and make a seal. It's a WT 99 with 752 stamped in for a Jonsered GR50.Any ideas where I might get a cheap replacement carb.Seen some common Stihl carb replacements for £12 ish but can't seem to find one for this?
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Thanks all - much appreciated - was quoted £45 for a new carb so am gonna give this poking / blowing a go.
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Never seen this before. No fuel getting through - opened up and needle stuck fast - head came off as I tried to pick it out. Have I got anything to lose poking through from other side? WT 99 52.From Jonsered gr50 strimmer. Thanks folks
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Remove the exhaust.Sit it somewhere safe outside and get a blow torch on it - you'll soon start to burn up carbon and oil when it's glowing red.
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Sorted - tapped it out and a couple of springs on order
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Broken pawl spring.Do I just tap out the pin from the back of the flywheel with a drift?Any knack to it? Never done one. And do I need the specific spring? Thanks folks. Flywheel is 503 79 00-02
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Thanks Barrie and Spud - will take a shufty
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Pressure testing a Walbro WT 170 for a friend and air is escaping through impulse hole on side that mates with block and cylinder. New one on me. New carb kit and Welch plug (could he have damaged something with Welch plug change?).Scratching my head.
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Tried my auto darkening welding mask - bit lacking in peripheral vision. Scratching is a prob yep.
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Any recommendations for a good quality face protection shield or even full on helmet when grinding / bench grinding? Bought a cheapo visor from Amazon years ago and it feels vulnerable. Something like this looks safe.
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My experience of removing spark arrestors is that the engines breathe / run better
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I wear Martens Conrad all the time but for standing around not walking about I go for Clarks Active Air.
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Faithfull Power Plus -Amazon £40.Doesn't get a lot of use but when I looked it seemed a good balance between crap and crown jewels for me.
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There's hundred of vids on youtube.I like weldingtipsandtricks and chuckE2009
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I have no knowledge of chemistry but am with Barrie here. Get the diaphragms out of a dry stored 2 stroke carb and they often feel like cardboard - all elasticity gone. I've tried re- soaking them in oil, petrol, even dot 4 break fluid which somebody told me. Once that elasticity goes it don't come back.
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Can't see much here about what metal you're trying to weld? I'm an amateur but my first and most important lesson was whatever kit you use if you're trying to weld unsuitable / too thin metal you'll get frustrated + welding is all about the prep / cleaning / butting etc . If you're going to be doing lots of thin sheet stuff invest in a mig - lots of little welds like the car repairers do (in a line) keeps the heat, distortion and burning through down.
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Looks like quality Barrie. Cheers. That"ll save a few strains.
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Ace.Who makes that Barrie?
