mikerecike
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Everything posted by mikerecike
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Absolutely.Well done Spud for putting in the time and Barrie and all who have made this and other threads a quality experience. Much appreciated. All the best to all for the new year. My resolution is to have a go at porting- unthinkable not so long ago. :thumbup:
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Thanks very much Barrie.Msgd you TC.
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Thanks very much Harry and Miker.Appreciated.
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Echo srm200be.Picked this up but missing a head as per pic.Not sure what part i need to be able to fit a head.Is it a generic part that'll fit any strimmers or some part specific to this model?
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Nice one Pyc
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Update.Decided to have one more look before removing the engine.Wheel off, gear cover off and then read a plate which warned about leaks if overfilled with oil.The 'broken' bearing was the head of a split pin -should've gone to specsavers.The racket must have been from the very thin white watery oil.Flushed gear oil out.Washed with petrol.Repacked gears with grease -outstanding quality -never seen anything like that metal.Refilled with fresh gear oil to correct level (must have had 10x too much oil in there).Fired her up and cut half an acre in about 35 minutes -dragged me round.What a piece of kit.Can see why hedge called it a Rolls Royce. Very happy.
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Yeh its a rescue job.Home for elderly strimmers but it's so well balanced I want to restore it.Its a TK carb.Seen a few other pics and in some the throttle cable is in 2 stages with some sort of linkage joining the 2 halves.
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Rebuilt
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Am rebuilding a TG33 strimmer and the throttle cable is completely missing.I imagine its one of those 90degree metal ended ones that screws into the TK carb.Cant seem to find any generic cables that would do the job.Any help / links appreciated.Its the barrel rotary type carb. Shouldve measured but at a guess id imagine it needs to be a foot to 18" long.Are these carbs and linkages still used today?
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Cheers barrie.Much appreciated.Mike
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Ok so this is probably more likely than the magneto to be the weak link. Ive seen a unit to allegedly fit the td33 on eb ay from thailand for 25 quid.Is there a different atom or nova for each machine or 1 size fits all? Thanks very much for clarifying that Barrie. I have a used module on ancient hedge trimmer.Maybe i could at least try it?Cheers.
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I have a TD33 old kawasaki strimmer and it has a suspect/weak spark (maybe not firing under compression).With these older machines was there an intermediate stage between points and condensors and fully all in one electronic coils? Mine has one of these externally and I'm wondering if this little unit is causing the prob? Any help on understanding the function of these which ive seen on many machines of a certain age would be appreciated.
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Cover gasket had it yes but not spilling from there.I think its far left in top picture - where the drive leaves the gearbox to whatever the mechsnism is.If you look carefully it looks like a ball bearing has been displaced.I imagine that bearing failure also destroyed an oil seal and hence the leak?? Probably have to remove that left wheel for a better look and then new bearing/seal???A service manual or IPL might come in handy.Thanks hedge.
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Cheers for that Harry was thinking it was maybe a Paladin.Yep its tempting to have a go at it but then where do you stop? Too many projects can equal no finished projects if I'm not careful.Cheers mate.
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Thats an interesting link.Thanks scraggs and wrsni. Definitely a different league of mower for me.
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Bought this non runner for the Honda engine.Planning to make a pressure washer from separate components.Got it home and fired it up without too much trouble but serious internal rattling.Anyway cut a bit of field effortlessly-dragged me along and great cut.Back in workshop gearbox oil everywhere and i reckon a bearing/seal gone?Can just see a bearing where it probably should not be. Am wondering whether to stick with engine plan A or fix the whole thing?Any opinions?Experience?
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I may be stating the obvious but diagnosing the problem is probably more important.Often very little stripping is needed or desirable.What I'm trying to say is tearing down a broken tool and putting it back together again isn't fixing it. Learning and reading about symptoms is the start and I'm with Harry- youtube is inexhaustible and constantly refreshed (bit like the geezer in the post above 👍)
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Anybody know where I can get one?Hugo at Rowena keeps the gasket and dia kit.Not the full one with metering lever, spring,needle etc. Can ebay from USA but thats a month long faff. Fuel is pouring from the air filter side when primed. Had a go at bending lever down.No joy.Any ideas?Cheers. Actual numbers on TKcarb are 5L 08508(or B for last letter)
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Show us your squirrel! This is no:3 in 3 consecutive houses.Never come across a stove with a better draw or the ability to warm a room with so little fuel.
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I think we might be missing the critical photo -looking down that white plastic tube - or some from that side at least
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I've no idea what these limiters are like...pic????...in the past I've used a piece of hacksaw blade to cut the plastic and pliers to pick them off bit by bit.(on other carbs not this one)
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Getting those adjusters off and re-tuning the carb would be my no:1 port of call. Not sure how thoroughly you cleaned carb when you changed dias and gaskets???
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Is your recoil pulling technique as effective as ever? Somebody once swore to me his mower wouldn't start - the issue was..HE couldn't start his mower - couldn't get a decent spin and spark. I know this is off the diagnostic trail but what's the multimeter telling you about your biceps? 👍
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Could you spell that out for dummies pls.What exactly are you looking for and where does it point you?Cheers. I tend to relate colour to fuel air mix??
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Hows the connection under/between the plug cap and the HT lead? Dealt with several where the pin has pulled partially out of the lead weakening or making the spark erratic. This wouldnt have caused a backfire but could explain the weak spark.Personally I stick to NGK.
