mikerecike
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Everything posted by mikerecike
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Makita back together.fired up first pull.really chuffed-all down to everything i've learnt here about seals sealants, gaskets,pressure, vac testing....................and on and on..big cheers Question. I replaced the ht lead which was too short.its one of those push into a spike in the coil collar jobs.ok if theres no tension on the lead but this is routed around a corner so naturally wants to pull out.i dropped a bit of spuds seal all across top to help anchor it.what else could be done? Sent from my GT-N7000 using Arbtalk mobile app
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Yep under control.these were the offenders.they'd lost elasticity so werent sealing.swapped with a 41 parts saw.sorted. Sent from my GT-N7000 using Arbtalk mobile app
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Seal All 1: Rest of the engine 0 Seal all seemed to do the trick on the makita dbc410 crank seal spud but rest of engine wouldnt hold pressure so removed from strimmer body.found another leak at the carb manifold- broken gasket. Lastly the whole bottom section of the engine(clam??) was leaking air.sealed it with some black rtv gasket maker.will retest tomorrow. Sent from my GT-N7000 using Arbtalk mobile app
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You,re right barrie and spud.i can see rubbery things on the horizon. Cheers. Sent from my GT-N7000 using Arbtalk mobile app
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I think the slipper plate pressure was key.just took oil pump off to check it out.there's 1 Orange grommet either side of the pumping end of the pump.the rubber is probably tired.gave a slight tap to the end of the slipper plate to create more pressure/seal on the rubber.bar and cover back on -rear nut tightened first and generally back on tighter.seems to be not leaking. Thanks folks much appreciated..will check again in morning. Sent from my GT-N7000 using Arbtalk mobile app
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just looked at IPL and noticed that on my saw i didnt have the screw no:15 - that probably adds more tension to that plate that goes over the bar studs - maybe that puts more pressure on that orange oil seal?? and would stop it leaking?
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what i'm working on
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From the album: mikespics
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dont think so rich - on the bigger saws ive seen that metal plate - not on this one
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Before i take the oil pump off to have a look should this orange rubber grommety thing be siliconed in place? The oil leaks from under/behind the silver tube.any idea what the prob might be? Common prob? Sent from my GT-N7000 using Arbtalk mobile app
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If you mean access from this side slim there doesnt appear to be any?
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This is the Aspera/Tecumseh recoil from a rotovator. I unseized it with wd40 and lots of pulling in and out and blowing the dirt out.ideally i would have liked to remove the pulley (felt like plastic) and thoroughly clean the spring and housing but couldnt figure out how to open it up further.There was no access from outside-metal over the centre.Any ideas?
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Pmsl - that's cheered up a grey day! Sent with due reverence. Disciple 1 aka Grasshopper
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Is the fuel filter a bit tired/blocked.?
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cheers broonie Repair Products - Repairing Leather, Vinyl, Tile, Wood, Fabric & Cars - 25 Multi-Mender Glue this seems the cheapest the prawn racing is only 1fl oz this is 2. thanks very much spud and co. - i didn't measure anything - maybe i should've- i went by the IPL - will let you know how i get on
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thanks very much spud - so just to belt and braces it - the 'correct' size seal is leaking air - not on the crankshaft, around the outside. To remove it I'd waste the seal so should i just squeeze it down around the outer seal. I've got an old pioneer that i don't think i can get a seal for that's leaking in the same place - would a squirt of this be a reasonable repair in those circumstances? cheers and much appreciated as usual
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Seal all i mean. Where do you buy yours? Found some now.what supplier do you use?
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cheers spud - can't seem to find this stuff when i google it? cheers rich for the other suggestion
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Whats bearing fit rich? Still got a problem with a crankseal thst doesnt seal and virtually spins on the crankshaft.makita dc 401 strimmer.
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It does help reduce plaque:)
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Jizer degreaser.anybody know the diff between the green 5ltr tins and the black tins? Both are parts/engine degreasers? Am i right thinking these are relatively safe to use?
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Thanks barrie and bill for carb info.u/s cleaning the carb and have found a suitable bolt. Recoil spring was not recoiling -rusted up but couldnt remove recoil from shroud - one nut rounded and rusted in.Welded another nut on top and got some purchase on it. Recoil off spring unseized -now functioning so could reassemble.first time ive done the welding trick -happy.
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http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/1550173804/ref=redir_mdp_mobile http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0878571906 http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/0872887057 Everybodly learns differently.these are my books.really enjoy some of the psychology in the barnacle parp book.the clymer i've barely opened.this forum has helped me massively theoretically and practically.i read service manuals whenever i can. Thanks to all and Good luck to you.
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that was poor welding on the Westwood - pity when we're in the habit of knocking the Chinese. What's that tractor second from the right Barrie? - love it!
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Merry Tiller.unseized the engine.now looking at carb - this is an aspera engine (tecumseh??).fuel line into carb seems to be missing a screw?pin? Anybody know what carb that is?
