mikerecike

Bought my first non running sit on. Never done a thing a with them - all new. Managed to get it fired up with battery direct to starter after carb removal and clean and general degreasing of the engine. The electrics have been messed with - hence the sale - so I'm starting from scratch. Ive checked the solenoid and its working, as are the 3 safety switches - also has an ammeter, light switch and ignitionswitch. a. what's that little silver box (black and red cables attached) bolted to the underside of the dashboard area in the pic? b. on the ignition switch at the 7-8 0'clock position the terminals dont have any designation like the others - any idea what it is c. governor - the throttle rod has a spring running around it and the carb end of that spring is missing - it would nt just connect to the throttle butterfly like the rod would it ? - that wouldn't do anything - it's a Briggs 11hp d. Have read that one of the wires coming from the alternator??stator?? under the flywheel should have a diode on it? nothing but 2 wires hanging - should i be testing for voltage from these when engine running - ac dc?

cheers barrie - much appreciated - yep he's the man rich!

Hi Barrie - thanks - engine shroud pictures along with whats left of ID sticker - serial number is clear but not model number - aha just had a brainwave ... it did have a battery start which i disconnected (e for electric? r for recoil?)

cheers all -for the leads and advice - next question I have a yard Man MTD 55/46 YM 5018e self propelled mower and want to change the tired belt. The sticker with the MTD model number is worn and illegible. Can anyone help me with a part number/list please? Have looked at MTD website in USA but they only field telephone calls - no email help Thanks folks

cheers rich and eagle - appreciated

ok - thanks barrie

Anybody know if there's a table that details the size of various self propelled and sit on mower drive belts? Basically I want to be able to source v belts that aren't badged or marketed for specific mowers - the price for these belts when marketed as mower specific seems ridiculous for what they are. Also interested in any reasonably priced supplier of these. Cheers

have you got a pic of this - am always on the lookout for home made tools

check where the black oil pipe from the tank connects to the oil pump - under the saw - this can work loose and reduce any suction action - its a rectangular ending to the pipe from memory which should sit snug in a rectangular cavity and connect to the pump haven't seen the vid but the pull cord will be to stop the piston moving - effectively locking the crankshaft - to allow for unthreading of the clutch

i did one of those beauties a while back - somehow the flywheel key managed to fall out itself! Don't you just love those plasticine recoils too. Nice green though.

Re semi derail; stihl vs husky hedge trimmers - used both - wouldn't go back to either - Tanaka all the way ps was run in years before i had it

It's not going to help you put it back together again but I like the original intention of the name. Charles Ferguson founded the Home Electric Lighting Company in Conneticut in 1921 - his aim...to make lightweight generators for home use.

cheers spud - feel confident to have a go now if it's xxx or b

Ok folks - all helpful stuff - much appreciated - and yep it is for those as spud calls it 'xxxx or bust' situations - one question - Barrie mentioned significance of flywheel diameter - is that just so the angle of the coil pickups matches - or is there some other explanation?

Am wondering what the science/art (if any) is behind inter changing ignition modules. Spud told me the other day that he's used a stihl module in an allen?? strimmer I think it was - is it just about - if the screw holes fit and it it'll fit into the space give it a go? is there any danger - are they all the same thing but just different shapes? - I know some people here are unlikely to be experimenting with other peoples machines but if it's the difference between a runner and an ornament I'd like to know the ground rules.

like it:thumbup1: got a pic of one?

got to the bottom of this one - wasn't happy with it - opened the muffler hole up this morning - i'd previously cut some internal baffling but that made no difference - and it now runs like I'd expect a TD18 to - plenty of oomph in a pocket sized unit

Quote: Originally Posted by Eddy_t View Post Oh dear, be warned, when I pulled the cylinder on the 009 all the big end bearings fell out! Little cylindrical jobbies that don't appear to be held in by anything! I know the 009/010/011 & 012 are essentially the same saw but with different handles, pistons and cylinders CHEERS CHAPS - FOREWARNED

looking good ET. On my bench along side a pool of tears is my 011. Just fitted your flywheel and fired it up - forgot the oil pump was off the other side - so after a lot of pulling it fired but started screaming i guess because the oil pump vents direct to crankcase. Was a bit slow to react - running for a screwdriver instead of shutting it down - end result my first diy scored piston and some horrible grinding sound from the big end bearings? anyway If it's not too horrendous when I open it up could well be my first piston change. what fun.

ok good to know its the combustion chamber . Compression is 150psi and yep I've had similar issues with TD18 coils. It's an old bent shaft thing - maybe there's still some drag in the gear head which was totally seized - i also haven't looked at the clutch end - maybe that's slipping? Like you say it'll be fine for garden strimming - I just thought it'd have a bit more oomph to spare

Strimmer doesn't seem to be making full power - may just be a small engine though -18cc - carb cleaned, exhaust de carboned, muffler baffles opened - looking down plug hole i noticed this - looks too uneven to be part of the structure - can carbon build here - feels solid -don't want to poke it too much in case it falls inside - is this correct and just a rough casting?