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mikerecike

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Everything posted by mikerecike

  1. mikerecike
    That was second port of call spud after regapping coil /flywheel (wasnt stuck or loose) and checking brake (fine). Disengaged the self propel belt - had same thought as you - that it might be dragging. Fully exposed still had to wrestle it round at which point it was clear that crankshaft was banana'd. Cheers very much folks for all the systematic ideas. Was good to open it up for a shufty -its a briggs classic clone engine with a honda clone carb but all feeling like its made to absolute minimum possible spec. Ive got a spare briggs with a self propelled blade adaptor to drop into the deck.cheers again.
  2. mikerecike
    No change with plug out - so that rules out valve/decomp mechanism? will check coil tonight ady. Dont think its blade - not kickback just really stuck. Havent seen a pic or vid of the inside of an sv150 engine . I remember barrie you pointed out to me the decomp lobe on the briggs classic cam.is this the same set up? Cheers folks.
  3. mikerecike
    Ok brake is something to check ady - opc fully engaged at handle. Thinking about it - its very stiff then you overcome resistance with brute force then seems to pull ok till you hit that resistance spot again -gonna break recoil if im not careful
  4. mikerecike
    Running a self propelled mower.released drive cable to take pressure off.not hydro locked -plug off and pulled over several times. Could a stuck valve cause this? Runs fine when fires - havent checked for bent crank but doesnt vibrate like mad?not sure how to access valves in this.its a honda knock off found on mountfields,champions etc.cheers folks.feels like seized/very high compression but runs fine when fired.
  5. mikerecike
    am I supposed to have had an email from you steve? bought mine a week or so ago cheers
  6. mikerecike
    Thanks a lot barrie.if thats a 2300 it gives me more to go on.looks like i'll have to check the serial no. Much appreciated.
  7. mikerecike
    Missing top cover screws -husqvarna 51, 55 chainsaw screw pn 503 21 43-38 - surely people don't pay 6 quid for 3 screws? What do you use ? Cheers - there seems to be one missing on many saws -what stock do people keep?
  8. mikerecike
    That's a harem
  9. mikerecike
    cheers bill let me know - do you have an IPL?
  10. mikerecike
    Good to hear that you rate it as a decent bit of kit Timber. Any help re what carb/filter/screws etc - codes from IPL will help me - thanks a lot. Mike
  11. mikerecike
    Mcculoch strimmer. A freebie. Smashed con rod. Sorted with parts from another scrapper.chuffed.first job on the new workbench.
  12. mikerecike
    Needing an ipl and or service manual if anybodys got one. Carb and air filter completely missing so looking for if anybodys got a scrapper around. Cheers.
  13. mikerecike
    Hi Normandy - I clean my chains in drain cleaner (orange bottles from the pound shop - sodium hydroxide ) -soak for an hour in an old compost bin I keep for the purpose - - then rinse thoroughly clean, oil and refit. Good luck.
  14. mikerecike
    Heated Water and few drops of fairy liquid.always spray carbs with wd40 after.good results.like the look of bills fleabay find.will have to do some sums to work out the cost of a clean at 3% in my tank.
  15. mikerecike
    Cheers a lot barrie.bent pneumatic governor to throttle rod -vane too close to the flywheel.bit of surgical pliers -running perfectly now. Next up 11hp briggs starter not engaging.plastic cog knacked and the column it travels up.so probably looking for a repair kit?also where terminal is attached to body of starter is broken - jb weld i guess.
  16. mikerecike
    Thanks a lot barrie.thats something to go on.
  17. mikerecike
    Had carb off and cleaned.runs fine on flat and downhill.uphill causes it to surge right up in revs with every thick clump.could self propel belt slip and affect revs? Only seemed to be an o ring to seal back of carb to mower and yet theres a worm hole configuration. Surging briggs are usually cured with a carb clean so i'm stumped.
  18. mikerecike
    interesting - can you put up a link to the ones you use please cheers
  19. mikerecike
    It's part of the Stihl 1120 series you may find this interesting: STIHL 1120 Series Complete Engine Rebuild (009, 010, 011, 012 Chain Saws) i think the colour change is down to different engines, I asked a similar question to this guy re: the 011's - the other big milesones for this series being points to electronic and no brake to chain brake here's mine i've had since new 30 odd years - 1 set of carb dias, a few chains, air filters, and a set of oil pump gaskets - never let me down
  20. mikerecike

    20131026 144305

    mikerecike posted a gallery image in Members Albums

    20131026 144305

    From the album: mikespics

  21. mikerecike
    Good analogy that
  22. mikerecike
    I have checked clutch side by firing up and then spraying wd40 at the seal.a leak will cause a stall if i remember correctly
  23. mikerecike
    cheers spud
  24. mikerecike
    wild guess - something to do with valves - lifting/fitting??
  25. mikerecike
    do you mean like yamabond?3bond? spud - what brand do you use? would this approach make any sense with my husky 55 when i get round to re-building it? cheers

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