mikerecike
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Everything posted by mikerecike
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a pertinent warning! can feel myself going greyer and losing my eyesight to computers with this new found addiction to wanting to know everything about porting (before having done any of it - which I suppose is the right way round at least??)
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Impressed with your first effort lakey. Am wondering what exactly that hanging drill is above your bench with flexi drive - is that what you used? how did you get on? be very interested in the precise detail of your porting tools/attachments. Think I'm gonna start with a strimmer! Don't want to risk a saw. cheers
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New clutch springs on an 011 and carb clean and fitting of correct fuel pump diaphragm on a 009 - no wonder it didn't run - 'repaired' by somebody else who seemed to have squeezed in a diaphragm from a completely different carb refitting the carb on the 009 was a painful process - old base gasket kept wandering and the throttle wire connect up made me fantasize about the chunky size of lawnmowers - there's probably a right order to re-install this carb, gaskets, lines and linkages.
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Cheers Rich and co. - job done (minus 1 switch melted with soldering iron) - chuffed
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From the album: mikespics
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From the album: mikespics
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From the album: mikespics
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3 pins - I found another switch that fits perfectly but it's a 3 pinner at the back - with a light- can i use it and just forget about the light spade? cheers
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On the bench heading for the wall - present from my neighbour -delighted with it
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From the album: mikespics
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Thanks Spud - and yes - this is one of the things in my life that will keep me wide awake - I can't get enough. Cheers.
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Thanks Rich and Tree - really helpful and appreciated - I'll give it a whirl all the best
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Echo with a hole where the kill switch should be. Not too savvy re: electrics (like most things until I've done it a few times). Bought these 3 switches - some say 12v on side - problem? p has 2 terminals at back, t has 2 and g has 3 - not sure which to use and what's the general principle here? i.e what wire/s should be going where. or even whether these type of switches will work at all - what do you do? Any help appreciated folks
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yep - it looks very like the aldi one too - all made by JPL I think - anyway it works for me - it has to for £33!
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[ame=http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00112B0U0/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00]JPL 7000 Ultrasonic Cleaner with accessories: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics[/ame] the JPL I went for Rich - quite happy with it so far good luck
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Same Stihl O11 - carb now ultra'd and running lovely - chain sharpened, bar dressed but chain was running on annoyingly at a working idle. Guessed it might be clutch springs. Clutch and sprocket removed to reveal seized ish sprocket needle bearings - tried freeing up and lubed (what do you lube needle bearings with?) and now spins more freely. Ordered a new needle bearing to stop crank dragging sprocket round at idle. Am hoping this will do the trick - glad i didn't dive straight into a clutch spring job. Will post result when bearing fitted.
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From the album: mikespics
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F A B chaps This is definitely the International Rescue of the chainsaw world! Only trouble is Spud....it's either good looks or the brains.....
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From the album: mikespics
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New arrival - dies at idle -only started the repair late last night - so carb off and being cleaned. Was totally rammed with oily dust UNDER the air filter! Looking at that orange vent pipe I can see there's something metal screw-like in the pipe - does that look right - is it in the right place? will it affect performance? I'm also noting that even if idle speed screw is screwed fully in the throttle plate barely moves so there's little if any mechanical adjustment - could that mean that the throttle cable is attached to the wrong hole in the cam'd adjuster mechanism? It only seems to start if i pull it over with throttle trigger depressed.
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From the album: mikespics
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From the album: mikespics
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Sound advice Rich (& co.) - will be acted upon. A flywheel will turn up I'm sure. Mike
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Thanks ALL - for sound advice and good offers - looks like i found a coil last night - I don't do much of this so ideally want to see it through - so I guess I'm on the look out for a flywheel. Much appreciated folks -mike
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Thanks Barrie I'm sort of sensing that the numbers on meters are irrelevant - what counts is whether there's a decent spark or not? I'm imagining that it's not about diagnosing a coil because even if you know somethings wrong they're not end-user repairable? Although I do recoil somebody once flashing a 'black box' at me and saying it was a dedicated coil tester? I've bought one of the briggs spark testers that has a window like the Zat 3 but I don't think you can adjust the spark gap as you mention- hasn't arrived yet- I'm guessing that Zat tool cost a few bob? Think I may also try removing a spark plug tang and see how useful that is as a spark tester. Any other DIY testers around? Anybody know a UK supplier of these Mcculloch coils new? Plenty to be shipped from USA but have been stung with 'duties' before. cheers folks
