mikerecike

Sound advice Rich (& co.) - will be acted upon. A flywheel will turn up I'm sure. Mike

Thanks ALL - for sound advice and good offers - looks like i found a coil last night - I don't do much of this so ideally want to see it through - so I guess I'm on the look out for a flywheel. Much appreciated folks -mike

Thanks Barrie I'm sort of sensing that the numbers on meters are irrelevant - what counts is whether there's a decent spark or not? I'm imagining that it's not about diagnosing a coil because even if you know somethings wrong they're not end-user repairable? Although I do recoil somebody once flashing a 'black box' at me and saying it was a dedicated coil tester? I've bought one of the briggs spark testers that has a window like the Zat 3 but I don't think you can adjust the spark gap as you mention- hasn't arrived yet- I'm guessing that Zat tool cost a few bob? Think I may also try removing a spark plug tang and see how useful that is as a spark tester. Any other DIY testers around? Anybody know a UK supplier of these Mcculloch coils new? Plenty to be shipped from USA but have been stung with 'duties' before. cheers folks

Testing a coil Have this Mcculloch on the bench was running fine then spark became nothing more than a very weak tingle on the fingers - with either recoil or turning engine over with drill. Noticed also that the flywheel fins have gone for a burton - no idea how that happened - pulled about a kilo of dirt out of the flywheel side cover. Wonder if overheating can damage the coil? ALSO - Can you test a coil with just a multimeter? If so what's the process ? If not what machine (apart from my finger tips and arm getting a belt) can definitively test a coil? Coil is a 219848-01 Mcculloch Cheers chaps

As soon as I replace filter and cover she dies and won't restart. What is this telling me about the mixture adjustment needed? if anything? My logic is saying filter and cover reduces air intake therefore need to lean h and L? Update from the department of the bleeding obvious air filter and cover was nudging the kill wire which had broken insulation under the handle therefore shorting. I'll get me coat..

Bang on the money Barrie and thanks Spud too. Opened it up again and exactly as you described - metering diaphragm peg was grooved. I had the diaphragm peg sitting on top of lever not engaged with it. Removed my homemade extra gasket (pictured) put it back and she'll hold pressure all day. Cheers guys. FOR SALE 1 TILLOTSON (1963 VINTAGE) HOME MADE METERING SIDE GASKET (2013 VINTAGE) - 1 OWNER FROM NEW.

Never done this but a great explanation - thanks for the training!

Cheers SPUD and AMFELL - solid advice - any thoughts on grinding a little off the middle of the inside of the diaphragm cover to stop ithpressing on the metering diaphragm and unseating the needle? Mike

Tuning this Danarm / Frontier 5r. You can't adjust with air filter and cover off - no holes. As soon as I replace filter and cover she dies and won't restart. What is this telling me about the mixture adjustment needed? if anything? My logic is saying filter and cover reduces air intake therefore need to lean h and L? As an aside - this is a 1963 tillotson carb - new carb kit worked for half hour then sussed the metering diaphragm was pressing on lever and unseating needle so wouldn't hold pressure. No give in the lever so I made a home made extra gasket on the metering side - works fine with loctited screws as long as not too tight. Was thinking of maybe grinding a little off the inside of the diaphragm metal cover plate (with the hole in the middle for atmospheric pressure) - just to stop the back of the metering diaphragm being pushed ever so slightly in by it. Any downside to this grinding? Cheers folks

cheers Spud -do you replace the original gasket with a home made thin gasket paper jobby?

Thanks a lot Andy. I'll let you know how I get on. It has no spark so I'm hoping can get away with cleaning the points. Happy new year

What do you mean by flushed them out Spud? And do you mean reducing the thickness of the cylinder gasket? Will that make any difference? Cheers

Been wishing for one of these to come my way. Coupled with my Draper Expert 1/4 socket drive set prezzzie I'm chuffed. But - no spark, presuming points behind flywheel - how to get into this thing - its really tightly packed in. A service manual would make life easier. Any tips re: working with one of these would be appreciated. Cheers folks

Thanks Alec - I've learned something - much appreciated Mike

Hi Alec Thanks for that. I've emailed Mr Solutions to see if they can find a 14" 3/8 bar that will fit. It's a 7 tooth sprocket. Is chain gauge just about how wide a cut is made? Re: what's wrong with the bar - it's been overly pressed in one place - see pics below. I'm looking forward to using this saw. Cheers, Mike

Don't know an awful lot about the history of this saw but it's vintagey for sure. Had it for a year and the rainy day came today to get stuck in. Removed approx 1/8 of a small tree from inside. Brought back to life with a carb clean and new diaphragms/gaskets, and a fix to the recoil pawl springs, rope and spring. Arm yanking compression but what a powerful saw. The bar is 23ish inches and knackered. It's a Sandvik bar with the following on it: 1765-59 1.5mm .058" 3/8" 72 dl If i wanted a new smaller bar and chain how do I go about choosing? What dimensions are carried to the new bar - how can I know if the oil holes will line up ( i held an old thinner bar to it and the oil holes didn't line up with the oiler) Any help apreciated. Thanks folks and happy new year to all