mikerecike

Good analogy that

I have checked clutch side by firing up and then spraying wd40 at the seal.a leak will cause a stall if i remember correctly

cheers spud

wild guess - something to do with valves - lifting/fitting??

do you mean like yamabond?3bond? spud - what brand do you use? would this approach make any sense with my husky 55 when i get round to re-building it? cheers

i would have thought that you'd get more/snappier recoil if you put another turn on the spring with the starter cord. For fuel line I'd measure outside / inside diameter then bite the bullet and buy a roll of tygon or oregon on ebay - painful but will do many saws/tools to come - don't buy cheap fuel line - very false economy

All the above and i hold it over a sponge cushion (furniture not cake) so that the saw has a soft landing

never made or used one but this is what Spuds talking about

thank you spud

minor hijack - the glass front on my hi gauge rattles a bit i.e is not making a decent seal - does this compromise the reading in any way? cheers

if i'm guessing right what you're talking about rich - ID the carb and then nick one from an old same type carb lying around. Alternatively phone the carb number through to Hugo and he'll send one with the spring and lever in a full carb kit apols if I'm way off track here

Cheers spud very helpful

Love it!

this photographic style eddy is getting dangerously close to chainsaw porn - do you really want that on your conscience?

cheers folks - will give it a whirl

Husqvarna 51 or 55???recoil says one thing serial plate says another? Scored piston.decomp valve not working (do you just unscrew and replace?) clutch drum seems to have a lot of slide in and out - does that clutch nut look on far enough?

Good stuff barrie.cheers

Is this app still available?or any recommended other? Cheers

eddys right I have one - this flywheel cover unit just takes lots of fiddling to get into the trigger handle

Thanks for all that lot Barrie -very much appreciated

a. what's that little silver box (black and red cables attached) bolted to the underside of the dashboard area in the pic? THink you will find that is a fusible link. Acts like a fuse, but resets when it cools. Prone to corrosion, replace it with an in line fuse CHEERS - WHAT AMP FUSE SHOULD THIS BE BARRIE? b. on the ignition switch at the 7-8 0'clock position the terminals dont have any designation like the others - any idea what it is S=solenoid L=lights (the one at 7-8 oclock) B=battery M=magneto(alternator) G=ground (earth) STILL SEEM TO HAVE 1 EXTRA TAB - 6 NOT 5?? c. governor - the throttle rod has a spring running around it and the carb end of that spring is missing - it would nt just connect to the throttle butterfly like the rod would it ? - that wouldn't do anything - it's a Briggs 11hp it attaches to both ends of the rod, it just damps the movement, works fine without it GREAT CHEERS d. Have read that one of the wires coming from the alternator??stator?? under the flywheel should have a diode on it? nothing but 2 wires hanging - should i be testing for voltage from these when engine running - ac dc? depends on the engine type (read it on the cowl) but probably 1amp DC on red wire. The black wire is probably the coil earth to stop the engine CHEERS

cheers for the confirmation - used them today

stubbys right - take the applause i love this work - bit of a hero to zero rollercoaster at times - you think things are going well then it all goes pear shaped - then gets shifted on track again by the thoughtful dudes here