farmerjohn

you would need a 'paint on vapor barrier' like a tanking system to stop any excess moisture in the concrete getting into the timber. We used it on an existing concrete floor in a house we did not know if there was DPC under the concrete or not. we then fully glued the boards down and it worked very well. Though the flooring was high quality engineered oak flooring so more stable anyway

standard!!!!

they look fantastic. Another top quality job stompy how thick was the panel? was the bead part of the rail and style?

are the boards to be layed directly onto the joists or onto an existing floor? what width can you get away with before it starts truing to cup? how long would you air dry 1 1/4" boards before kilning? thanks, John

what make is the planer graham? out of interest, are these green timber prices?

out of interest,how u going to plane them flat? i have a 510mm wide planer-thicknesser that is bigger than most around me and its no where near!!! some machines are 630mm wide if u know anyone, but i dont think they are common. Hellis big boards, i love elm, od you have any pictures?

Has anyone ever used sweet chestnut for floor boards? it would wither be layed directly onto floor joists and nailed to them or thinner pecies made and glued onto a 18mm wayroc type board. any comments / advice welcome especially regarding the following... durability drying problems stability board width stability. I have a small 4-sider to machine T&G boards once dry. Thanks, John

what thickness did you mill it at?

Hey J, you ahve a logosol i think (like me) has the cladding been using the jibs on the top or bottom head or just side cutters (obviously depends on the profile) I have ran out fair bit of T&G and vee groove T&G but never used any of the top or bottom profiles, just wondered if you had and what they are like. Thanks, John

if you dont mind me asking what sort of price range was the timbrey M100? did you get a cost for the M280 (bigger one without trailer?) how do you find it? Thanks, John

dont worry about it fella, when i read it i was a bit like... What the F@#k, no need for that!!! no need to air it on here for my benefit i have not taken personal offense. I do find more annoying than comments as above is incompetent tradesmen, or even worse out and out con artists that both give a very bad reputation to the trades. If you do want to PM me basic background i can possibly offer some advice from past experiences.

Kevin, that's incredibly narrow minded and offensive. You have obviously had a bad experience with builders. (in my experience) generally when a member of the public has had problems with builders as they have gone for the cheapest option and the contractor they have chosen has no credibility or intention of doing the best job possible. As in all trades there are good and bad people practicing i think the customer should take some dew-diligence and find out who they are employing and a tradesmans past employers. There was a thread on here about someone charging for very bad workmanship pol-larding trees, I'm sure there would be a lot of retaliation if the person cam on here and posted a comment as offensive as yours about all members of the abro-culture sector. Yes i am a builder, and the reason i am on here is i am sick of buying over priced imported timber. (and want to be able to offer my customers genuinely locally sourced timber) for barn conversions and historic restorations.

photos

here are photos as promised the sizes are 40 inch long, 12 to 20 inch wide and 1.5 to 2.5 inch thick. THanks, John

are these any good? in Cumbria though!!!

i have some beautiful deep red / purple yew in the barn, i will take some photos and measurements, they are not that but only 2 / 3 foot long and nearly as wide. will post photos and measurements up in a bit if ur still looking for some.

i will see him on sunday so i'll ask about costs and get some photos mate

i am seeing a fellow on sunday, he had some 2 to 3 inch thick air dried ash, end sealed, under cover for about 5 years, but not sure of the quality, it was pitch black when i was there, do you want me to ask him about em? only problem is it is in cumbria,

in my opinion i would rip to rough size, making sure you have allowed for wastage squaring timber up when it has moved from drying. this should help it dry quicker as you are increasing the surface area slightly. i would not bother planing as it will move and it will only be to do again. I am not sure what others think but i get the impression timber will dry quicker rough sawn rather than planed, but i could well be wrong

cheers

Hi all. A friend of mine has a milling job, not sure how big it is, it is in Harlech, Gwynedd. if anyone is interested please call Jon Webb on 07818013114 do discuss. Thanks all, John

i use ripper 37's, and am very happy with them, they seem to be more flexible than the woodmizer blades i was using (though not sure what model they were) We have not had a ripper snap yet, unlike the woodmizer bands. I have bought mine from appleby wood turnings, Appleby Woodturnings - Homepage they are a really good price and good service. Ask for Jeremy, they were up to 40% less than other companies i tried for same bands in box of 10

That is absolute quality craftsmanship. Its a pity you are so far away, i'd love to pay someone to give me some lessons on furniture building. It really make me sad someone with that amount of skill can not charge more to make a descent living, dam the importers of cheap mass produced, laminated, CNC cut furniture. it is going to be a real problem in as little as 10 years time i think, general lack of high quality tradesman in this country. out of interest what did you use to bond the timber to the steel? is it stable for a long time? did you have to 'rough up the steel or anything to give it a good key?

iv never bought any so cant comment on the costs, as will said, Decahydrate or pentahydrate? what are advantages / disadvantages of each? do some go inert after a while so not poisoning the end user when planing, sanding etc? regards, John

Hi J, can you email me some photos of the burr elm if you have any please. do you have any in 2.5 or 3" section? Regards, John