farmerjohn

Hi agg, can i ask, do you have a kiln? if so what sort of size is it? i can get hold of roofing sheets, would it be best to sticker all timber and cover all with sheets? or would you get the ash and silver birch in a open building to prevent any water getting on it? also, any tips on getting the beach dry quickly? regards John. PS off topic for this forum but if you PM me your email i can send you some photos of the insulated lime render we use, got some good photos of us using it if you are still interested. Thanks again

does anyone have photos / details of smaller scale kiln setups?

bluddy hell, what temperature was the kiln at? did they case harden or just open up massive shakes? or is that the same thing? i wonder if i would be better with a lot smaller kiln setup and do as you say, maybe just 6m3 or simlar as i wont use my stock that quickly

Hi All. I am getting the following species of timber milled up at the weekend, probably at 1.5 - 4" thickness, not many will be at 4". I have read a lot of posts on here, and also bought the books 'the conversion & seasoning of wood' and wood and 'how to dry it' Can I please ask of peoples opinion / experiences. I have already asked about oak and read a lot of posts on here and from advice plan to have anything 18" and under cut through and through, anything above this will be quarter sawn, this will be air dired 6 months (max thickness 2.5") before kilning, is this long enough? trees were all felled last feb in the frost. other species are as follows, I have not really seen much info about them on here so advice about how long to air dry for before kilning and any cutting advice would be very much appreciated sweet chestnut, about 20" diameter Spalted beach, 30" diameter Silver Birch, 18" diameter Ash about 20" diameter SOFTWOODS: Yew, Larch Many thanks in advance, John

cheers bigJ, do u have a ballpark for a LM15?

i take it the LM1 is manual push through down the track, or is it on a winding system? any idea how much the LM15 would be, i am not bothered about the trailer package if they do it without if it makes it easier to ship. just out of interest really, i wont be doing anything regarding buying one in the next few months at least.

Hi All, i have just made a purchase of some Dakin Flathers 'Ripper 37s' to cut some oak, yew, silver birch and sweet chestnut, by the sounds of the reports on here they will be pretty good. (i cant wait to get on the mill, i'v waited all autumn for this) I shopped around a bit and the best price i got was from a company called appleby woodturnings Appleby Woodturnings - Homepage i have found them unbeatable on sharpening, spindle profiles etc. There ripper 37's are not on the website but i saw he stocked Dakin Flathers, made the inquiry and jeremy came back with a very good price, try em out guys

I dont, i think if you choose the correct apprentice, and treat them correctly and are transparent with them about how much it actually costs to employ someone, risks of pricing jobs and running costs (and i mean have a conversation about this not winge at them constantly about how much they cost you) and heven forbid you make a bit on a job because they have 'pulled there pan out' and done you proud give em a few quid extra for a beer or two and you might find you end up with a hard working loyal workforce. I think the college is there to teach them the theory but the real learning is done on site, and not just the practical learning. dont get me wrong it is a nightmare being a employee, i have had some excellent staff and a few bad ones too.

How many times have you heard,well there's a bit more than we thought many times, although not arb trade i hear that all the time and i can think of 3 jobs in the last few years when clients have told me they are on a tight budget at the start, we have completed original quoted works and ended up doing extras for more than the original cost. i quote jobs for what i think we can do them for with a FAIR profit margin, got a greedy one and i still get asked "is that the best price you can do it for?" and my reply is always, "we do a good job for the price we quote, you are welcome to speak to my past clients for piece of mind and providing the job does not change neither will the price. The job will be finished when stated where possible and the site will be left tidy. Let me know in due course if you would like us to do your job"

PS we are rarely the cheapest, but also not the most expensive and still win the work

I'd like to think i win a lot of my work that way, i have been established for nearly 10 years now and have 7 guys working full time for me, we have never been shy of work (touch wood this will continue) although i am in construction it is very similar initial contact with the client before a job is awarded. Just remember potential clients are most likely going to be out at work when you do the job, especially if it runs over a few days, they could be nervous and need to trust the person they pick as you are on there property and could potentially do some damage. They will only have a hour at MAX to chat with you when looking at a job so that is the only time you get to make the best impression possible as this is more likely what they will choose a company on, if its anything like my trade, unless a company is cutting there throte to get the work most people are pricing about the same cost per hour so it is down to how likeable, trust-worthy, polite and punctual / tidy you can make yourself out to be. When i go and price a job i am always enthusiastic (as i love what i do) and i go with the same enthusiasm as the first descent size job i got asked to price, i always take photos of past completed works, before and after!!!

Alex, was it yourself i was talking on here and we got off topic talking to about insulation materials, specifically for me a lime insulation render we had started to use?

WOW, i didnt realise that you lost so much, some rough sawn dried oak i got was 26mm thick before i started planing and prob took off 3mm top and bottom and it was pretty straight, what size do you think that was milled at? also, it was pretty good, not a lot of twist or cupping (hence only 3mm each side) is this normal on a 5" wide board or was it pretty well dried so not to need as much taking off? Alec, your 3" timber, do you kiln that? if so how long do you air dry it for before kilning? or what is a minimum time is the more appropriate question? What thickness would you expect 3" milled to shrink to and then plain up to? Apologies for all the questions guys i really do appreciate all the advice.

cheers for that james, can i ask what you would consider the smallest diameter but that is worth quarter sawing? and i take it anything below that you would cut through and through. Thanks, John

Hi Alec, I have a few sticks of oak to be milled soon that are over 2'6", i was thinking of quarter sawing them, you mentioned cutting the oak into 2-3" sections i would be drying mine, using some for myself and possibly selling a small amount, is it assumed if someone wants 1" wide boards, once the 2" stuff is dried you then re-saw the 2" stock with a bandsaw? i am going to try and kiln mine eventually so would it be best to stick to 2-3" sections rather than 1" in the kiln as well to try and reduce the range of sizes. One last general question about milling, any oak between 12" - 24", how would you cut it? just through and through or another method such as boxing out the heart? regards, John

Hi Howard, can you PM me your details please and if it is ok with you i will give you a call over the weekend, I'm at the show tomorrow, having a day off for a change and i'm in eskdale friday so no reception. think i can probably make any day next week apart from monday, are you leaving it square? i can bring my log-debarker on my 136 if you want it dressing up? it makes a really good job, just need to get a bolt for the side baring.

if you guys ever come across any nice pankable hardwoods (excluding beach and sycamore) and would like to sell them rather than getting wet logging them please let me know.

Hi dave, it wasn't behind the marina by any chance was it? i was working on a property there today giving my old boss a hand out with my lads and i heard a saw getting some stick today!!!! I would certainly like to call in on yourself also if it is not too inconvenient. I have just looked on your website, do you still have the forcat? i may have a job for you, a friend of mine mentioned someone up greenodd, arrad foot way had one but i could not find out who it was. can you please PM me your number and i will give you a call regarding the extraction job and to have a look at the mill. Regards, john

Hi Howard, I would be very intrested in seeing one in auction. I live in kirksanton nr Millom but we are actually working VERY near you at the moment, We are renovating yew tree house (right next to WRS yew tree barn) if possible i would love to come and see one in auction. Regards, John

a very valid point as i found out today on my 136, break band snapped!!! I do seem to have a habit of whenever i finish a cut clicking the break on, even if it is just for 30 seconds whilst i look where i am going to make my next cut, probably does not do my saw much good. I do take on board what you are saying about adopting the correct posture and i would like to think i am very aware of risks when using the saw and do what i can to minimize them, but i would defiantly prefer to use a saw with a break for added piece of mind.

I should have said, i am not buying a new saw for these jobs, it will be second hand, and i am also not up for getting one so old it is without a chain break as if it is there to be used i will use it for every job it can be used on and not keen on using a big saw like that without a break for anything other than milling.

true, if i was going to go for a 90ish cc i am leaning towards something like a 064, old ish, but i think i can still get all parts, apparently best power to weight ratio for a big saw, though that does not bother me too much, and if i end up getting one it WILL get used. does anyone know if is there anything i should look out for on the 064?

Coletti: i would love one, but i am thinking of a second hand saw and they dont come up very often, only seen 2 on ebay since jan, and 1 of the 90cc ones, cant remember the model, it was still in it's box and it went for £400, prob should have had it, if the power and reliability is there i'm not bothered out the colour.

Hi Rob, I have seen your website and i am going to place a order for a few bars and some chains very soon. The main reason for my post is to try and work out what size saw i should buy, i would rather buy a smaller saw (72cc ish) as a 90cc saw would not get the use it should if owed by me and would almost be a 'waste' of a really good saw, but if it is the only option it is what i will have to get. Another option which is a question directly for you, if i am only putting 4 square sides on 18" butts and small with a chainsaw mill then re-sawing on my pto saw, could i get a smaller mill from your good self that would run ok on a 72cc saw? Regards, John

Hi, although I have not made many posts on arbtalk I have been a member for a year or so. This is my first post from scratch and there is a lot of info to give so you can hopefully give me some advice so please bear with me. I am very interested in fire wooding and am looking to get into milling in a small way, mainly native hardwoods in small ish quantities as a sideline to my construction business to use for restoration works we complete on old properties / barn conversion. (This is the main of my work.) I have about 7 tonne of oak butts (between 2’ and 3’6” please see below pic of the smallest on the trailer) and the odd ash, yew, sweet chestnut, cherry and splatted beach butt. I am going to take all of this lot to a local guy who is very close to me who has an old LT25 and I can labour on him removing planks and stacking etc. I have recently made a bit of a purchase to make lighter work of the smaller diameter firewood we get (please see below.) I have about 5 trees to off root that are about 40 – 50” diameter that are for milling so I am going to get a bigger saw. The problem is what size saw to get. Because I have close, cost effective access to a mill any big timber will get sawn up on the mizer. I would like the option of cutting any smaller butts up to an absolute maximum of 18” diameter myselt with a chainsaw mill, I would almost certainly cut any timber I do myself into 10X10” sections and re-saw it into planks on the woodworker. I was given an Alaskan type mill (not sure of the make, it is orange and has roller on the top that run along the top) that has a 36” bar on and I do not think it can be used with one much smaller due to the way to holds the bar. At present my biggest saw is a 455 rancher which I know is far too small for the mill, but I have to admit I really like the saw apart from the oiling problems I have encountered. My questions are as follows: 1. is would something like a husky 372 or a MS440 be power full enough to do what I want on the mill running a 36” bar but strictly not using all of the cut available on the mill? 2. If yes to the above can I get a 36” bar to fit wither of the 2 saws above or am I going to have to go for a bigger saw? 3. Does it sound feasible / sensible to do the proposed and square up smaller butts with a chainsaw mill and re-saw on the PTO saw. 4. Any advice on how best to mill hardwoods (especially oak) with 3 and 5 star shakes is would be very much appreciated as my man mainly uses the mizer for re-sawing softwoods. Many thanks for anyone who takes the time to read all of the above and give any advice. John