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farmerjohn

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Everything posted by farmerjohn

  1. very nice mate, what size is it? where in the lakes are you? Im Lowick way, just going to post some myself now
  2. cheers mate, Larch ok? plenty of that around!!!!
  3. is at any good for stickers? i have been offered a good size milling log for the bandsaw and originally said i probably dont want it. bu i will need quite a few stickers this year
  4. I have not been to see it myself yet. Do you mean the fungus/ rot gets worse gutter up the stick? Or at the bottom where the pink/ purple bit is will already be soft? Only milled 1 stick of beech. It was a rotten bit to test out my lack of milling skils when we first had a go!!!!!
  5. I am not particularly a fan of beech but I think this could yeld some nice figure in the middle few boards.
  6. Yep, because that is what the customer wants!!!!! I agree, if a single slab table 1.2m wide and 4.2m long is 2inch thick it will look thin enough. And cupping might take it down from 3 to 2 by the time it is flattened
  7. Hi. I have been getting a few logs slabed up since getting the new double headed mill. I have been asked by a few clients to process some of there felled trees. the biggest problem i have is getting my timber dry fast enough, for myself and clients. I have a large (1.2m diameter, 5m long) spalted beach a customer would like milling and turning into a table. can beach at 3" thick be put straight into a kiln? on this matter i know oak and i beleive cherry are difficult to dry fast, i have the following timbers also cut and would like everyone opinion of how long to leave before putting in the kiln so as not to get massive case hardening problems (or any other really bad shakes and warps) at 2 and 3 inch thicknesses. I will be using a humidification kiln not heat vent. sweet chestnut monkey puzzle cedar ash yew
  8. thats awesome Hewn, what size were the planks you took off the large oak in Ayr
  9. ohhhhhh now i get it!!!! ????
  10. if possible id be interested in seeing photos of the lumber. Mainly to compare to what i buy and the costs so i know i am not over valuing logs and on the other hand so i am giving the seller a fair price so i get first refusal of stuff in the future.
  11. he sells the plans which are very details and has lists of suppliers which i purchased and i had big ideas about building one with my fabricator friends but the project never got off the ground. Mainly because of time and it seem either i dont know where to look or there is a lot more individual parts for building anything available in America than there is in the UK. I had a friend look at this and he was concerned about the rise and fall and lack of play in the head. I struggled to find the band wheels and other simple components like acme screws, sprockets , key way shafts, idling shafts bearing blocks etc etc It is still a long term plan to build this, any body with ideas about where to source any of the components above would be much appreciated.
  12. Good work lads, I am no fabricator but work with a few good lads. has anyone seen Matthew Cremona's videos on building a 60" cut band saw?
  13. the first day 3 of us went to the site (who i was paying) but we really only needed 2 of us, it was more a bit of a crack for the lads as we got on really well on some other jobs recently and they both wanted to come. would i do it again, for the timber??? yes, I would probably do it 2 or 3 times a year if it was similar size and quality, not i have done all the outlay with mill, saws etc etc. I would do it again if nothing else out of principle to stop a lovely bit of timber like that getting split for firewood as that was the other option. i am starting a separate company focusing on bespoke joinery and interior design and supply of unique one off timber slabs so most of the stuff i mill i am hoping to sue myself.
  14. thats another question isnt it!!!! does anybody have a contact for prime grade european timber, in relatively small quantities for skirting boards etc, like 25mm x 150's and 25x200mm ish
  15. assume you went for the middle of the tree you can say its 5.5m long, 1.3m wide, 0.075m thick, this is 0.536m3 i regularly see timber that size advertised for 2500 - 3000 a m3 which is £1,340 - £1,608
  16. the tree was 18ft 8 ish long so as we made a cut we slid the board off and cut it to make 1x 10'4" and 1x 8'4" mainly due to being able to dry them and (my kiln im building is 13ft 6" long) and handling them. think we ended up with 5 full bits cut at 8 and 10ft and 1 board left in full length
  17. re' cost, no money changed hands, i milled it and paid my lads for half of the timber. we had 38 hours in it, plus my tractor and fuel oil etc, owner of the timber put a few of his lads on to help us now and again and he was with us most of 2nd day with his crane trailer lifting slabs out. I would be interested to know what people charge for a double ended mill and 2x men on it for a 8 hour day,
  18. Thanks Khriss. unfortunately i made a school boy error, first cut 'clipped' a screw i put into the log to hold wedges. It was so little it only knocked the set off all the teeth on the top of the chain only. this made the cut want to dive deeper into the log. we ended up having to wedge the ladder on the top of the flat first cut and re-screw it into the timber to get the cut flat
  19. we are using 1x ms880 and 1x ms650. plenty of power, biggest differance is using the hyper skip chain. I have only ever used double headed mills. as far as the mill goes i actually like my swerber mill a lot more, i know its heavy but its 2 man system so does not have much effect on use. i was going to sell the older setup but am not 100% sure now!!!!
  20. finally (although sooner than i thought i would) i received my new double headed mill from chainsaw bars and chains and bought a MS880. we gave it a small run out on a oak log in my yard then straight to this fella!!!! its 18ft long and about 4ft 8inch wide
  21. cheers Bill, we did notice that and ended up putting 2 wedges facing each other in the middle to support it then tightened the claps onto it.

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