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Wood wasp

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Everything posted by Wood wasp

  1. I'm sure on occasional site they are without doubt the best option but how often do you see a privately owned woodland being churned into the ground? That's what makes me think they're the preserve of the public sector who must spend their budgets and where left hand doesn't know what right is doing. For example one site in central Scotland with good access to mills/chip producers is having thousands of tons spruce mulched because someone wants to turn it into a peatbog... Its FC land
  2. I know some woodland is infected but I struggle to understand this fad for mulching woodland when there's a shortage of timber. I've never seen a private woodland being mulched, only ever FC or quango owned woodland
  3. Wood wasp

    550xp or 365

    For clugging firewood day in day out I'd go for 365 ahead of 550/560, if more of a multi purpose saw I'd go for 560
  4. Always been Oregon chains Wolter, as I said they just needed tightened almost every fill and guide rails were starting to show wear pretty quickly. Was running it on two 560xpg and both saws showed same symptoms
  5. Picture of the Blondin complete with nice tidy load. Excellent yard machine and to out it back in to woods full time would need brakes on bogie fixed, new centre bearing and bit of attention to valve block. It's a good able machine though and the tilting king post is good for reach and power.
  6. I've taken out about 500t with the rottne last year, play in central bearing too and no brakes on rear bogie so not for steep sites!
  7. I'm also about to do central bearing on Lokomo 919 as getting wee but of play, not got a manual so any tips before I set to?
  8. I've got an old Rottne 750 I toy with selling from time to time.. But it's a great yard machine with a big crane
  9. From memory it was the stuff used for cooking... Whatever version that is. May still be an empty drum around somewhere that I can check and get back to you. I remember it was very thin and runny, chain needed tightened every fill and was sore on bars too
  10. Yes both prices plus VAT Jon
  11. Was rapeseed oil Wolter, about £1 a litre for 20 litre drum from booker. Got a 200l drum of chain oil for £1.30 a litre and difference is night and day.
  12. We used veg oil for a bit, found every fill meant giving the chain tightener half a turn. Ordered a 200l drum of chain oil from local dealer - literally comparing treacle and milk, the chain oil "gloops" whereas the veg oil just cascaded out of can
  13. By end of war do you mean flying to Poland post May 45 Arthur? If so that would be interesting indeed. If pre May 45 and based Italy it would be more likely he was going to the former Yugoslavia where SOE were very active. Either way brave man to land in small illicit airfields in hostile country
  14. I would imagine the price to be ex works (collect from factory) as the seller can't know final delivery point when quoting a price. So haulage to boat, on boat, from boat and finally import taxes to be added. You can organise each stage yourself or get larger company to give you a door to door quote and also take care of paperwork. Latter option more expensive obviously but if you don't know about importing is best route IMO, too many pitfalls otherwise. And both seller and shipper will expect cash up front from a new customer.
  15. It would be a shame if this thread deteriorated to a pissing contest about western & eastern campaigns. The Eastern front dwarfed the western campaign in every aspect but was that really relevant to the poor souls in their tommy cookers/bomber command/infantry slogging through the mud of Italy. Respect to all fighting men of all nationalities who in the vast vast majority of cases would far rather have been at home with their families.
  16. To be honest it doesn't really look like a chainsaw cut?? Well not from a running chain anyway
  17. My experience is older iglands and They're very simple so if tractor pto not losing power then suspect your clutch is not simply not engaging enough and needs adjustment (or replaced). Try adjustment* first but if no luck then Take the drum off and work clutch action being careful not to overextend anything and pop seals etc. should be about 10mm travel max and clutch plate should have about 5mm feroda on drum side. Clutch sits on metal hub on shaft with three pins, the clutch slides along these pins when engaged and three small metal spring plates pull it back off when clutch disengaged. *bear in mind too much adjustment is as bad as too little as it will snatch and try pull continuously - edit, I'm assuming that under the skin old and new iglands are the same
  18. They must've made at least a small difference in those days with not the best anti vibe
  19. In old days when heated handles were heavy(ish) I always used to think an exhaust fume switcher would be just the answer! They're electric and in 560 (and presumably other new husqys) they also warm the carb
  20. I would always recommend heated handles as it's not only the cold but also the wet you need to bear in mind, nothing worse than working with wet gloves and the heated handles help keep your hands warm and toasty. Yes they cost a few quid more and saw will weigh a few ounces more also but from a comfort point of view definitely worth getting, I wouldn't buy a saw without them now.
  21. Thanks for info, much appreciated
  22. To be honest sounds like a three day talking shop and all the usual suspects will be there. The countryside needs less "management" and plans, leave people in peace to get on with it instead of a multitude of quangos and charities all driving their own agenda. To quote Ronald Reagan "The most terrifying words in the English language are: I'm from the government and I'm here to help"
  23. John Does this relate to industrial use only or will a supplier to a domestic user have to show that firewood/wood chip is sustainably sourced so that domestic user can claim rhi payments? Thanks D

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