Mark_Skyland

Welding a chain is a new one on me! Honey brothers and l s engineering stock the tie straps, Ive directed a few customers to them in the past. I'm sure that they will stock the tie straps for the little Stihl chain.

Just follow the HT lead back from the sark plug. It will end up at the coil which is located behind the starter cover to the left. The coil has some number on it, this is an example 581 72 36 02. Its best if you match the coil numbers otherwise you may have to take the machine into a husky dealer to get them to update the autotune. Replacing the coil on the mark 1 is a bit of a job IIrc, although I may be mixing that up with the 560. To make it easier you can cut the wires from the coil and join them to the original wires on the machine.

If they are cutting weight by adopting the 500 crankcase design then I can see it working out quite well.

400g lighter! That's a lot of weight to remove, I don't know how on earth they can achieve that!

Its only £6.50 from amazon The Life of a Tree : Lescure, Island, Demont, Marie: Amazon.co.uk: Books WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK The Life of a Tree : Lescure, Island, Demont, Marie: Amazon.co.uk: Books

Buy that! It is way under cost price. It looks like its the mark 1 but its still a massive bargain. Its a detuned 560xp

I would try running the machine at tick over on the ground then moving/twisting the handle, engine housing, shaft, throttle handle etc looking for a wire shorting out somewhere.

I bought this book a couple of years ago for my eldest. Its definitely worth buying as the kids love it. A great little stocking filler purchase for this time of the year.

Thats a really good tip from Matty. I did the same when the 57dl chains weren't available off the shelf. If you drill the bar you can use 56 or 57 dl chains.

But this Stihl Guidebar Mini E 1/4 SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM The combination of this particularly narrow guide bar with the 1/4" Picco chain (designed especially for cordless chainsaws and the MS 150 / MS151 ), offers considerable savings in... And this Stihl Chain Picco Micro 3 (PM3) - 1/4 SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM Only available from Stihl in 1/4" .043 (1.1mm) gauge sized chain, Designed for the MS150, MS151 & MS161T this chain is fast and cutting and leaves a very smooth clean cut. Guide... Not necessarily from us but the above combo work well with the 2511

This is the part number for the s119D 1139 120 0601 As long as the throttle linkage looks the same it should be OK. The differences are usually a change of throttle cable hence the fittings may be different or the H and L screws, limiters caps, type of tuning screwdriver required etc. As above, rowencarbs are really good and will be able to help you out.

Try chainsawbars.co.uk. Rob will make 60dl loops up.

Definitely check with the warranty details if doing it yourself.

I was thinking that a worn drum might 'allow' the clutch to explode. The clutches ive had in that have cracked have been contained by the drum so no big drama. Sounds nasty Mr Newton, your reactions must be just too fast! When your old like me you would just watch it spin off and disappear. Although I wont go into that as the last time I mentioned it I got told off. As Mr Bolam said the stihl bar and chain setup is really popular on the 2511. When I get a chance we will start selling the saw with that setup. Especially since the price of a new echo 1/4" bar is around the £70 mark.

Plenty of good advice above. The Honda doesn't look too expensive at all. I would replace the engine rather than trying to get it repaired unless you know a decent mechanic but im sure that the kohler parts will still be available. You may need to check the pulley that connects the engine to the cutting disk and I'm not sure how the hydraulics work on those machines but I'm sure timberwolf or a timberwolf dealer can advise you. I've replaced engines on a few chippers and stump grinders in the past, it isnt that difficult to get it done.

I've seen a couple of really knackered clutches that have split but none have exploded. Usually the clutch springs weaken or snap which causes the chain to turn at idle with the chain brake off, the engine dies at idle with the chain break on or they get hard to start. If you do have a broken clutch spring replace all of them at the same time, don't skimp on replacing just the one. The stihl 150/151 200/201 are prone to wear on the clutch where the springs attach to it. If you can see a bit of a grove in the locating hole then it may be time to replace the clutch. You will find out that if you replace the springs and they dont last very long then the clutch is probably on the way out. One last thing, whether its stihl or husky make sure you get the correct springs as they both have a habit of updating the clutch mechanism which usually requires different springs, they can look the same but they may have 1 more or 1 less coil on the spring.

I suggest contacting the dealer you bought it from. It may be out of warranty but all PPE manufactures want feedback if there is an issue with one of their products.

Good find, I hope the OP has this sorted out now.

I think that you need these screws. V805-000240 We sell the spikes with the screws but they only come as a package.

If the check valve is knackered then its usually a new carb on the cards.

Whatever lube you're using just apply it sparingly.

Have you managed to sort out the problem?

This is a maintenance doc from Petzl. Looks like wd40 is a no no, machine oil or graphite powder is the recommended lubricant for metal hardware. From what I've heard graphite powder is a really good lubricant you just need to puff it on, less is more. Too much and it clogs things up. entretien-assureurs-descendeurs_EN.pdf

DVS_STIHL_ZBA_ZRA_RA_737_00_01_01_ZRA_01_01.pdf No pic sorry but I hope this helps, page 77

If it needs a cylinder and piston then I would advise to put that money towards a new saw. Changing the crank gasket wont cost much more money but it will take a fair bit more time. You need to work out why it needs a new cylinder, if its a case of poor fuel then no problem but I would have performed a pressure test in to rule out crank seals/bearings that may have caused the problem. If you do try some epoxy instead of a new gasket which I wouldnt do, not with the cost of a new cylinder then you probably need to put some kind of heat shield under the exhaust as I would suspect the heat from the exhaust would soon damage the epoxy.