Mark_Skyland

Had any luck sorting out the issue?

From what I've heard recently its looking like December 2025/Jan 2026

Do you leave it running while its sitting on the floor?

Not had a chance yet as there are quite a few machines in the workshop. I will hopefully get a bit of time in there this week to check it out.

Good shout out. Its worth checking out the PDF on the gov web site as some machines have already been checked. If your serial number falls within the range of affected machines but has a black dot next to the serial number then it has already been inspected and is fit for use. If you are unsure then speak to your local Stihl dealer.

I'm thinking that it might be something like that causing the problem. Its metal. I have a few old ones knocking about from knackered 550/560s so I will swap it out.

Looking at the vids and pics It looks like the zigzag bit is way chunkier than a Petzl zigzag.

This is the part number for the wrap handle kit 593202803, you get the handle plus some screws and an AV. Its not something that we stock and I cant see any in the UK selling it but ls engineers might be able to help you out. If you get stuck then send us an email as we can order it in for you, will prob be a week or two.

Thanks Pete, Ill check it out. I suggested that he keeps the bar and chain and replace everything else, he didn't seem too keen on that option

Had a customer drop in yesterday with a 562XP. Basically as soon as you tighten the bar nuts the chain gets really tight, slacken the nuts of a tiny bit to get the tension right and the chain moves around the bar by hand nicely, tighten the nuts down and it hardly turns. I only had a quick look at it, bar and chain are matching, it had the same issue with his old bar and chain, nothing seems to be out of place in regards to the chain getting pinched, the drum isn't contacting the sprocket cover although the clutch springs are really slack but they didn't cause tick over issues which I thought strange, and there didn't seem to be too much movement in the clutch bearing and the guide plate looked OK. I will have a proper look over it next week starting by swapping out the sprocket cover to rule out any issue with that. Im thinking that somehow the bar is somehow twisting causing the issue. He also said that he seems to be replacing the rim sprocket more often than usual, the rim floats freely on the drum. Has anyone came across this issue before?

It's made in the UK, that's about the extent of my knowledge tbh as my climbing days are well over. I only ever used prussik loops then swapped to a hitch climber and then the zigzag which I thought was a game changer. It will be interesting to see how well it works with SRT and how differently it works either on its own or used with a tether. I don't get the removal swivel bit as I thought that it could be used with or without the swivel but it doesn't look like it can't. Has anyone had any hands on experience with it?

There is a lot of interest in the ISC reflex at the minute. We have some info about it and the release date here ISC Reflex Mechanical Hitch - Skyland Equipment SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM The ISC REFLEX Mechanical Hitch is a mid-line attachable device for climbing up , down and around trees. We don't do pre orders as they can be far too much hassle for us and our customers but if anyone wants to be added to an order list then please email us here [email protected] or send a PM to me but its better to email as I'm not around on here enough. A shameless request but even if you aren't interested in the Reflex please click on the link to our web site above as its helps advertising with less funds going to google and more to arbtalk.

You're right they aren't the same, they do look similar though and I suppose you could make them fit as there is basically no OEM parts available anymore for the 020 AV. Ive only had two in the workshop and that was a good few years ago. I was making one decent saw from the two of them.

The trigger unit is this Trigger Unit for Stihl MS661 C-M, MS661 C-MW Chainsaws - OEM No. 1144 430 1010 WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Overview: The Trigger Unit for Stihl MS661 C-M and MS661 C-MW chainsaws is a genuine Stihl control component that restores precise throttle actuation and dependable response...

Ahh right on the carb. I thought you had the old 020 AV as that's what the L&S diagram is showing. Those av rubber always fail, they get soggy from the chain oil, they last a lot longer than the 201t spring though! Although the springs don't really fail but nearly everyone I've had through the workshop is twisted out of shape. I've got about 3 of those 020's in bits scatted about the workshop, one day I will put a couple together. One day!

That's a strange looking carb. I dont remember the 020 av having a carb like that.

It does have a throttle position sensor, its called the trigger unit. I think running a 13" bar is causing the problem. It must be constantly running at max rpm's which is likely causing issues with the auto tune. I understand that huskys have an issue if your running a blunt chain as that will also increase the rpm, I presume that its the same with stihl machines. I think you're right about it not having an air leak, what colour is the spark plug?

Good feedback. We sell a few boa system boots but not a lot so its good to hear how they are holding up in our industry. I always thought that it wouldn't hold up to much abuse for pro tree climbers. Maybe a tougher, thicker version should be available. I remember one of the reps saying that it has been in used for snowboarding boots for years and has proven to be reliable. Like that is the same as getting it snagged on stubs and rubbing against wood as opposed to having snow sprayed on it!

We've also seen a drop in sales of battery chainsaws, both rear and top handle, battery hedge trimmers are still doing well though. As for blowers and strimmer's/brush cutters that's more or less non existent. Which from a workshop point of view is good otherwise once or should I say if battery saws takes over the workshop will die off. Once that happens you will see a big increase in the cost of battery machines.

Some of the mk 2 550xp's did have issues with the crank seal, I think that they we installed incorrectly at the factory so if it is leaking a new seal should sort the problem. Although, the bearing may be damaged to contamination and the air leak may have caused issue with overheating and possible piston/cylinder damage. You really need to do a pressure test to confirm that its the seal that's leaking and causing the issue otherwise your wasting your time just replacing it, its always been the one flywheel side IME. Also any machines I've seen with a dodgy seal don't run OK one day then poor the next, they hang onto the revs once the throttle is released. 99% of the time the rest of the engine is OK but I think ive had one maybe two that have destroyed the bearing which turns into a really expensive repair if you're out of warranty but TBH the seal issue usually shows itself well within the warranty period depending on how often you use the saw etc. This usually happens when the operator has just kept using the saw for a long time with the issue. Note to the OP there are two types of seal for the 550xp depending on the serial number (and the bearing used) so check that with L&S first before buying.

Lots of parts are still available for the 036 MS360 but IIRC some bits aren't. Its going back awhile but I'm sure someone wanted a crankcase which is no longer available.

Yes another waste of electronic kit IMO that will never earn its money back. I must have £1000+ of diagnostic kit that's only ever used to setup up new carbs. TBH I don't recall any instance that the kit has helped with repairing a machine.

The thing that I would suggest to check on a 201T is the air filter cover. If its cracked or damaged replace it. Once damaged you can get a lot of dust and crap bypassing the air filter, if it gets really bad so much dust gets through the carb that it can block one of the ports in the black plastic splitter that sits between the carb and the intake boot. I had to put a pot and piston on one once because of this. There was a massive amount of crap inside the crankcase.

As above, some photos of the cover and the clutch/drum will help.

Does it cut out like you have just switched it off, ie it doesn't splutter or slowly die or if you right the saw it will keep running, it just flat out stops? If so Spud is probably on the right track with a wiring issue. Try pushing down and rotating the top handle while its idling. If it cuts out check the wiring under the front of the top handle as Ive seen quite a few 201s where the wiring either shorts on itself or shorts on the crankcase. There are a couple of different wiring looms for the 201 so just make sure you get the correct one if you do need to replace it.