Woodworks
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Everything posted by Woodworks
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Went to the local dealer and the small Echo they recommended is the CS-352 Anyone have any views on this particular model Also had a Makita 3500 in there that looked a pretty good and felt nicely balanced. Which Dolmar is that equivalent to?
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No need to modify. Pull out more sheet than you need and hold it up at the front. For me this means lapping over the cab and putting a log on it. chuck some logs in up front then lap the sheet back on itself over the logs and load the rest. Should stop it pulling through. Hope that makes sense
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Hard to be sure James. Not got any 1m grass here to try but suspect it would get through it if you took it slow. It has not yet got wrapped with grass, nettles or brambles and it tends to throw the cuttings clear to the left. Think mine is the base model but not sure as they appear to have changed to B&S engines from the Kohler that's on mine.
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Never looked at a carving bar. Didn't know they had no nose sprocket and a slack chain does sound like it might be trouble with all the twigs and debris you get in a hedge.
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Anyone else got a view on the Dolmars and carving bars? Be nice to buy from Shavey if they are the right machine for the job.
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Which Dolmar do you have in mind
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Not going to mess around changing saws for the end of the cut. Need to knock out the meters to keep the customer happy. I do keep the rakers long to stop the saw being too greedy though.
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Very cold last night but been roasting in the sun this morning out on the splitter.
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Not sure I want to go that small. Most of my hedgelaying is on stuff that has been left long past it's sell by date. Smallest I have used to date is an old Huskie 340 but it rarely comes out as it's as it's as heavy as my 346. Decisions decisions
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If you layed it you would end up with a lovely dense hedge in no time.
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Just had a gander and do a fair range of small saws. Anyone in particular you could recommend?
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Tried it Matt. The temptation to use it one handed while holding the pleacher is too strong so going for rear handled saw
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Wanting a small chainsaw for hedgelaying with the season fast approaching. Looking for something neat and nimble with a short bar. It's not going to be used to death just part time use over the winters. Only saw I have seen so far is a baby stihl, think it was a 170/171. Not fussy about brand. Thanks
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Think 1/4" over would be to little unless very stable wood. The boards are going to shrink in thickness during drying and then there is any cupping and warping to plane out. If you're looking at wide boards planing out cupping can end up with an alarming amount of wood being removed. Many other variables to consider The cut of the board ie through and through of quarter sawn Width you want the finished boards How perfect you need both faces How stable the species is If I needed a perfect 1" finished I would buy 1 1/2" boards and except a fair amount of waste unless I found some exceptional 1 1/4" stock. Somewhere between the two would probably be fine.
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Sure there have been a few discussions about this style of splitter over the years but can only find one thread quickly http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/firewood-forum/54076-super-split-log-splitter.html Seen some pictures of a worn out rack and pinion but can't remember what brand it was.
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Haha that had crossed my mind Matt. Thing is folks seem to like me turning up with a smart looking processor not sure what reaction I might get with it gunked up with waxoil
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What thickness steel should survive galvanising is is it all about how well it's braced?
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Nice pictures as ever Paul Been working on a wind farm recently and I find them majestic.
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Farmers take milk off shelves at large supermarkets Re price of milk
Woodworks replied to mendiplogs's topic in The Lounge
You could be right but aside from food security (which I am surprised your not in favour of) you would lose what I presume is the biggest employer in rural areas. -
Farmers take milk off shelves at large supermarkets Re price of milk
Woodworks replied to mendiplogs's topic in The Lounge
matelot We live in a small Dartmoor hill farm. We get some grant funding for the way we manage the land and being in a LFA. We are paid to not use chemicals on the land and to repair old Devon stone faced banks. We had £3250 last year according to Kevin's link combined with the income from our sheep we may break even as long as none of us charge anything for our time Yes there are perks to farming but without them many could not or would not be able to keep going. Whether anyone likes it or not farmers manage most of our countryside and being encouraged to do it in a sustainable way seems to make sense to me. Around here there are many moorland farmers living a subsistence lifestyle to survive. Without them the land would probably be left idle for better or worse. Like any system it gets abused for profit. For another example look no further than the RHI Beau -
This distortion issue could be deal breaker for the whole machine Could get the chassis done and paint the rest.
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Don't know about galvanising being a fraction of the cost but definitely cheaper. Just had a quote for painting the whole thing and that was £600-£800 Galvanising comes in at 85p per KG. The whole processor ways around 750kg Both said they needed it shot blasting first.
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Think it would have to be blasted as everything gets covered in hydraulic oil from the chain.
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Touching up the affected areas is an option but think it is only a matter of time until it all needs doing. The salt water gets everywhere just is worse on some parts more than others.
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"Powder coat has trouble with sheared edges, common on most machines. The big give away will be the edges where the coat comes adrift after a while" Exactly what is happening so powder coat. Thanks
