Adamam
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Everything posted by Adamam
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The cheapo Gunson one is fine as far as I can tell (tested against a couple other random alternatives). It's not like it's a mission-critical piece of kit in terms of absolute accuracy... ...more about online super-heroes banging-on about their amazing compression!!
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So I got my order from diyspareparts, and must say that I'd recommend them for stuff you can't get elsewhere. The website is ace; they have IPLs for stuff which allows you to directly order parts from the diagram. Very clever. They seem to do everything from washing machines to...chainsaws. There are cheaper/quicker options for Husky/Stihl, but for Efco this seems the best/only option if you aren't near a dealer (I'm not). Thought I'd post just in case anybody else finds themselves in the same position.
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For future reference, factory starting points for H and L are 1 1/4 turns out on this saw. I should buy a tachometer!
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I know it's a long-shot, but does anybody know the factory settings for an Efco 156? I picked one up super-cheap, and it runs fine as it is, but I'd like to know for future reference. I can't find it listed anywhere since it's supposed to have limiters in place but this one doesn't. At the moment H is about 1 turn, and L is about 3/4. It runs fine as is, but the previous owner...well, I don't want to be running it too lean. Seems like a really nice saw. Any ideas?
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Anybody know of an online source of Efco spares? I've trial-ordered from 'diyspareparts' which is the only Google result I found, but I'd never heard of them before so...we'll see. Any suggestions received with gratitude!
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The two things I see are 1. no clip-on air-filter cover and 2. different muffler front plate shape.
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This saw looks like a 254 with a 262 recoil cover, or am I wrong? HUSQVARNA 262XP CHAINSAW | eBay No serial plate...
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Avoid the 'Mako' brand. Recent piston/ring lasted about 14 days. Un-awesome. Not to hijack the thread, and probably of interest to Mattmoss anyway: Does a Super or Woodboss (50cc/47cc I think?) 028 cylinder/piston fit the older (like mine and presumably Mattmoss') 43cc saws? Not that I'm tempted to mess with mine at the moment (compression still at over 150psi on original parts)...
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Ok, great, thanks for that! I'm more about 8 hrs a month than a day, so if I can achieve that, I'm in business.
Thanks for the info - looking forward to getting the saw,
Adam
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Hi, I think I just bought your 262? Was just looking for a side cover and an old thread of yours popped up! I see you've had ongoing clutch troubles, is the clutch ok as far as you know at the moment? I'm just trying to get a handle on the work I need to do on it.
Side covers are such a ridiculous pain to track down! I had exactly the same issue with my 254...
Hope you don't mind me messaging you here; seemed the simplest option.
Adam
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I know it's probably impossible to find one, but does anybody know the part number for the plastic version of the sprocket cover for a 262XP? Don't want the entire brake assembly, just the cover part. I think the number for the entire assembly is '503 73 66-01', but as I say, I have the brake gubbins, just want to replace the cover part (cracked). The IPL I have for this saw doesn't list this part (or the assembly part number for that matter!). Any help received with much gratitude, as always!
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I recently put a new piston and ring on my 254xp. So long as you take it steady, it's an easy job. I used a Mako kit which seems to have a reasonable rep on the other saw forum. OEM is silly money, as is a cylinder.
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If a saw is dying after a cut (start, WOT, close throttle, stall) unless the throttle is feathered, would I be right in thinking that the low carb setting is probably a bit too lean? It (254xp) is running almost perfectly, and will idle fine when started and after a feathery bip (would not attend a Feathery Bip gig!) after cutting, but if I drop straight from WOT to zero, it stalls about 50% of the time. It's not the idle setting, so I'm thinking it's probably a little too lean on the low screw, does that sound about right?
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I haven't found anything that the fiskars axe doesn't do better than any maul I've used. Clearly there are limits to what any axe or maul can split, but the x27 really is insanely good. I genuinely LOLed the first time I tried one.
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Very, very much worth buying the Fiskars sharpener too. Contrary to received wisdom when it comes to splitters/mauls, the Fiskars ones seem to need to be kept razor sharp for the magic to work. I let mine go dull just to see, and it becomes very average. Sharp though, they're bonkers good. So light too! Doesn't seem like it should work at all!
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Quote from "Marketing to men easily the easy way made easy" by me, soon to be available from remainder bins near you: "...if you can't make it look like a gun, then make it look like a spaceship. If in doubt, make it look like a gun from a spaceship..."
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I paid about £70 for a non-running/no-compression 254xp a couple of months ago. New piston and regular crap fixed it, but be aware that cylinders for 254s are bonkers expensive.
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Probably a stupid and obvious question, but definitely not rich mix pooling in the crank case?
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Oh my God has this man been driven to distraction by my awkwardness and idiocy! Fantastic level of service. Ridiculous in fact. 10/10 highly recommended.
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Wow. File me under 'way too little faith in the honesty of my fellow man to fall for that'. Is sad though. That people are such w*nk*rs.
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The 254xp that I've been (very slowly/lazily) restoring to health is turning into a hilarious lesson in terms of penny wise, pound foolish. Remove carb; one gasket disintegrates. Order new gasket (and carb kit). Install new carb kit, install carb. The other gasket disintegrates. Exhaust mount split; order mount. Mount arrives. Install. Exhaust gasket splits. Exhaust hex screw strips. E to the T to the C. Egg on my face/lesson learned/etc.
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What's the scam then, given that the buyer collects? I'm not suggesting it isn't a scam (if it's too good to be true, it almost alwasy is, especially in the south), but I can't see the angle with a COD deal...
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There's nothing to stop you putting an 18" (or 28" for that matter) bar on either, but the performance from such a small saw (both less than 40cc I think?) will be less than stunning. The larger the area of the bar/chain that contacts/cuts the wood, the greater the demands on the engine. Some would probably suggest putting a smaller bar on those saws...
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Einhell sell parts for their Einhell branded saws, and also various re-branded saws via Einhell UK . Never used them, but support (I had an Einhell saw exactly like yours until the oiler died) is very good (IPLs and manuals etc). If I'm right (and I am ), your saw (assuming it's 45/46cc) will take the parts of the Royal RBK 4645. Last post, promise!!
