Adamam

Ok, brilliant! So if I detach the AV joints (?) I should be able to separate the two main parts of the case enough to get in and attack the impulse line, is that right? Thanks so much!

I think we're talking at cross-purposes. The tank vent look easy enough, but the impulse hose (split) looks impossible to even attempt without major disassembly, no? Not that I can find a replacement online anyway, so the point is slightly moot! Might just retire it to the long-term pile and buy something ready to go. You don't have anything suitable/used for sale at the moment do you? Your reputation for used gear seems superb!

Yeah, that's great (and what I reckoned), thanks! This impulse pipe replacement looks like it requires the entire saw in pieces! Assuming I can even find a replacement impulse hose... Think I've bitten off more than I can chew maybe. That said, I hate quitting! Not much point spending tens and tens of quids on a saw this old I guess...

Checked the impulse line, seems cracked. Anybody know where I could get one? Also, how the hell to access it!!

Another question (still waiting for the carb kit before I do the rest of the suggested checks above). Any advise very gratefully received, obviously! What I believe to be the tank vent is just a small metal nipple. I believe this should have a tube attached to it with some grub screws in it? The nipple isn't a valve then, just a plain nipple? If I hold the saw upside-down, I should expect to see fuel leaking from the nipple? There's a hole in the case above the nipple, should the (missing) line that attaches to the nipple poke through the hole? If so, presumably it doesn't attach to anything, just sticks out? Thanks!!

Thanks so much! I kiss you!

My increasingly stupid old Stihl 028av purchase seems increasingly stupid! The newest problem I've discovered (having fixed the more glaring, pre-running problems) is this. I've got it to idle (albeit too fast/chain creep, even with minimum idle screw setting), but when I rev it up, it's ace for about 30 seconds, then it goes UP and down and UP and down and UP and down as if I'm revving it up and down (I'm not). The chain creep may be a bust clutch spring, haven't checked. What's with the UP and down and UP and down thing? I stripped the carb, and it looks ok (although I'm going to install a carb kit just for kicks). The only odd thing about the carb (Tillotson) is that there are no gaskets installed, just the membranes. I don't know Tillotson carbs, should there be gaskets between the case and membranes? Ugh. My first Ebay rip-off in over 400 transactions. Sold as 'excellent condition', 'just serviced' etc...seller not responding to emails... Egg on my face.

I would see this band.

You are literally the best forum member of any forum ever!

Hello! Again! More noobish questions that I'm hoping one of you kind, kind people can help me with! Fresh from my Dolmar fix-up success, I bought a cheap Stihl 028 doer-uper. Seems in good-to-great mechanical condition. Result. Questions: 1. The rear handle (part of the case, presumably) is suffering from corrosion. What can I do to halt this? What is the case/handle made from? What has caused the corrosion? 2. The model is 028 av. Is there an easy way to work out if it's 43cc or 47cc? Massive appreciation to anybody who can offer help. Adam

I thought I'd finished fixing up my new/old Dolmar 100, but it wasn't pumping oil, so I took off the clutch/sprocket to look at the plastic oil pump, and it is completely fubar. What would have caused this to happen? I think there's a shim/washer missing from between the sprocket and the metal pump cover (the sheet of metal between the sprocket and the main chainsaw casing), but would the lack of a single shim cause that amount of heat? It's not a proper bearing or anything, just a metal shim. I have a nasty feeling that the previous owner used motor oil instead of chain oil (it stinks) but I don't see how that would cause the melting. Anyway it looks like it melted from external heat...

Thanks so much for this! Today I bombed it with carb cleaner and blasted everything through. Started it after about 20 tries at half throttle (there was no idle at all), tuned the carb by ear and now it starts 2nd or 3rd pull (no throttle) and idles almost perfectly! For £30 and (so far) no spare parts (I haven't installed the DIY filter yet), I reckon this is a tiny, fun-packed bargain! Currently it has a 14" (original I think) bar, would it be more sensible to stick a 12" bar on it? It'll need a new bar anyway, the current one is fairly badly worn... Thanks so much again for the tips! Adam

Do you share my general suspicions regarding private sellers who claim to have 'just' had their saw (and in fact anything else mechanical) serviced? I can't see why anybody would sell a 'just serviced' saw (or more to the point service a to-be-sold saw) unless the service engineer had announced impending failure...

Thanks so much! I had already checked out the IPL, but there's a total omission regarding the foam (pre?) filter. So kind to offer help advice! Thankyou! The saw is absolutely filthy, inside and out, so I'm hoping that a full-on attack of carb cleaner, clean filters and new plug and I should at least be approaching a starting point... Hopefully the pre filter failure (and use during/after by previous owner) hasn't killed the saw completely. Given that I've managed to start it twice (albeit with complete failure to idle, but running fine while reving), can I assume the coil is functional? Adam

Thanks! I can't imagine that something as rough and ready as this little saw would mind running with a bodged filter!

Hello! Any help at all would be massively appreciated! I'm fairly new to engines, although I'm generally 'handy' in other areas (electrical engineering/guitar builder etc). Domestic user with a cheapo Einhell for regular log cutting etc Anyway, I'm an obsessive tinkerer (aren't we all?) and I've just got a £30 Dolmar 100 spares/repair for kicks. It's supposedly a non-runner, but (with massive coaxing) I've had it running a couple of times. Anyway, the (main) question I have is that it has a regular, plastic case style airfilter (like most modern saws seem to, that slots into a fitted hole), but there is also the remnants (massively deteriorated to the point where I can't see what shape it was) of a simple foam-type filter (with no plastic casing). Is it normal to find two air filter types? Would I be ok to cut a filter to shape from a motorbike filter blank (a square piece of foam I'd cut with scissors)? Sorry for the completely noob question! Adam

Yeah, seems like it's not possible now, regardless of payment method. Drat! Double drat! *slaps forehead*

New here, hello! Is there a special secret agent secret to ordering the X27 from the US (apart from not ordering the sharpener)? I tried and it won't allow delivery to the UK. Maybe Amazon has cottoned-on. Annoying if so as I've been after one of these for a while, but UK prices are bonkerscrazymad...