Adamam
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Everything posted by Adamam
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Sorry for being confusing; it's the chain-brake that doesn't work! The saw runs awesomely. Hit the brake handle and the brake comes on sometimes, and other times it doesn't. Odd. I dunno. Maybe just a part worn, but I can't figure out which part. Efco parts are fecking expensive!
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Just to remind you people with proper, tidy, spacious, sensible, utilitarian benches how we weekend-warriors roll, here's my 'bench'. Otherwise known as the sideboard in the utility room. Fixed the 026, and having another bash at my never-ending attempts to fix the chain-brake on my Efco 156 without spending £75 F*CKING QUID on replacing it. Have absolutely no idea what's up with it, unless it's simply worn out. It'll 'fire' about 75% of the time, but the other times it doesn't. A further knock/bash on the non-firing times and it'll fire. Strange. The springs are all good, the band is knackered, but that shouldn't stop the mechanism working should it? I've had it apart about 100 times. Not using it without a functional brake; that'd be stupid.
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Fascinating Update Alert!! It was the torsion spring. New torsion spring is far springier than the old spring which while springy was less springy than the springiness exhibited by the extremely springy new spring. Spring. Spring spring spring.
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Funny, I was looking for the same thing earlier. A few people have recommended JayMac in Derby ( www.toolbank.com | Jaymac (Derby) Ltd ).
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Thanks for the replies both of you. In terms of reassembling it, I don't think there is much I can have done wrong; it works exactly as it should apart from sticking... It's almost impossible to see what's up because the assembly doesn't really work without the cover on it. Hmm.
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The trigger interlock has started sticking on my 026. It won't travel all the way back up after it's been pressed in without the trigger being 'flicked' to get it to travel all the way out (the trigger that is), thus releasing the interlock... Does this sound like a spent torsion spring? I've had a good poke/clean around the trigger assembly and removed/reinstalled the entire thing, but no joy. Spring?
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Any tips for cleaning filthy saws without using an air compressor? I don't have a compressor, and I have as yet not really worked out a reasonable way of cleaning saws without spending ages brushing/picking at the filth. Any pointers would be brill!
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Slower cutting though. 162 is more your 20-years of service firewood saw. Like a husky 61. I really like my 156, but it's pretty old school. Very much like a husky 254.
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If Oleo-mac=Efco (I think that's right), then make 1000% certain that spare parts aren't an issue since I've found sourcing spares for my Efco 156/Oleo-Mac 956 (which is otherwise absolutely ace IMO) to be incredibly slow. For example, forget about getting anything from Italy during August/September since the entire factory closes for August, and September is spent catching-up with orders.
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...does anybody have the email address for the ambulance?
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So you're telling me to put one foot up on the saw horse while I cut the wood? Okay, I'll go and give that a try!
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Thanks so much all for the replies! Most embarrassing! :blushing:
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Oh dear God, yes! This is why I'm thinking that maybe Swinny is right, and I'm just being 'tarded about how I'm holding the wood. As I say, I don't usually cut such small wood when it's not attached to a trunk, and I have no idea how one would go about fastening it properly...
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No, no change since last cutting, and it's only on this specific narrow diameter beech. Usually this saw is boring, but dependable. A little too well; the springs will need replacing soon. I don't reckon so (could be wrong, obviously), the chain is almost new and is still perfectly sharp. It's Oregon, so I'm assuming the rakers would be ok.
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Thanks! I do know this stuff, but it's very kind of you to answer anyway! I'm not talking about pinching, I'm talking about an immediate jam the second the chain hits the wood. The wood isn't long enough (or heavy enough) to pinch the chain.
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The chain and bar have seen almost no use, so it's not them. I wonder if you're right about the wood not being secure enough; it's just in the jaws of a cheapo saw horse. How should one go about cutting wood of this diameter when it's not attached to a tree? I know this is purest noob home-user (me) territory! I haven't encountered this before, but I then I don't often cut stuff so skinny!
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In weekend warrior mode this morning, I decided to cut some firewood. I have a bunch of small diameter limbs (beech) that I hadn't bothered cutting, but are pretty well seasoned, and thought I should get them out of the way. 3"-5" limbs. All burns the same, right? Anyway, my only functional saw today is a Jonsered 625 (Husky 61) with an 18" bar, in great order. Chain is sharp. Well, it kept getting snagged (don't know the proper term) on the smaller diameter stuff. Put the limb on the saw horse. Saw to WOT. Put saw to wood. Chain immediately sticks/snags in the wood and needs to be worked/sawn back out. I'm saw there's an obvious answer to this, but (being rather daft) I can't see it. The wood is beech, and seasoned.
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I've bought a few bits from Smallplantbreakers (co.uk) for my (now sold) old Dolmar, but it's hit and miss in terms of what they do/don't have. Might be worth giving them a ring.
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Very kind offer, thanks! I already have it back together, but I need to take it apart again before I finish the saw. The problem (well, the main problem) is that the end of the throttle linkage/rod completely refuses to stay in the hole in the trigger. As soon as I fit the spring into the throttle lock, the fecking linkage pops out. I was hoping there was a clever knack to it. Possibly involving elastic bands. Or voodoo. Or alien technology.
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Thanks so much for that! I probably didn't explain myself very well; I mean the whole trigger/trigger lock assembly. The stuff under the black plastic part on the back handle. Nightmare!
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Wow, that is BEAUTIFUL!
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Is there a trick to assembling the trigger/throttle lock/spring(s) on an 026? I just picked one up for cheap, and I swear the only reason that the guy sold it was that he couldn't get the throttle/lock/lever back together and that the spring on the master control was on the wrong side. I've got the trigger etc fitted now, but JEEBUS CRIPES it was fiddly as f**k. Maybe my giant man-hands are too giant and manly!
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Chinese child labour?
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It seems standard practice is to drill the hole to fit the standard Husky fuel kit... Look a little drastic to me, but I guess it's simpler than sourcing a grommet that fits both the line and the hole.
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Has anybody any advise/wisdom to share regarding converting an older jred/husky from moulded fuel line to curly or tygon? The standard husky fuel kit grommet is too large, and after market moulded lines seem like they're slightly too short for comfort. Any ideas very gratefully received as always!
