Adamam
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Everything posted by Adamam
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Seriously though, those saws are Einhell, not Zomax... Look!!! For heavens sake! Same Clutch cover, same brake handle cut-out design, same strip of metal showing between back handle and body, same spark-plug bump etc. SAME SAW!!!!
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Haha! Thanks so much for that Spud! The years of crud were such that I had totally missed two hex bolts!! The build-up of filth behind the pump cover was beyond belief, but all working now and with no new parts! The best kind of fix! This saw is the worlds dirtiest saw.
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Ignore the worm drive question, it just pulls out...
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Does anybody know offhand how to get the oil pump off a 254xp? I've taken the clutch/sprocket off and I'm presented with one obvious hex bolt, and 4 small and deep holes that are packed tight with crud. Are there bolts at the bottom of these holes? Also, do I need to take the worm drive off the crank shaft before I can get the pump off? As always, much gratitude for any help!!
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Is there any reason why I shouldn't fix a tiny hole in an air filter (the fine mesh part, Husky 254) by applying a tiny blob of epoxy resin? Do people fix holes/rips in air filters, or is it verboten? A new filter for my saw is £20 plus...
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I've scored a vast quantity of free firewood since grabbing a petrol saw. I also have a leccy one (Chinese generic) and it's fine for ringing up. And quiet. Free wood vs quiet/cheap really.
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The Husky isn't quite repaired yet, but I've fired it a few times with Aspen and it runs fine. The tiny Dolmar I don't really find much use for so I haven't bothered to try it with Aspen yet. Will do at some point no doubt. I love that tiny saw!
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Used it today for a while after a further carb tweak, and it ran perfectly so I guess it was Just One Of Those Things! Sorry to have wasted your time!
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Seem to have to retune the carb every time I cut with it. As the saw heats up, it stops wanting to idle until I richen the low mix. Also, doesn't want to reach high revs when WOT until it's run for a while. Doesn't do any of this with regular 50/1 petrol/stihl oil mix...
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I've been trying out Aspen recently since I'm not a professional and therefore it's handy to not have to worry/care about fuel cannisters going off. My 028 doesn't seem to love Aspen though. It's good as gold on regular crap+stihl oil, but it's being a little naughty with the Aspen. Obviously I've retuned the carb (a couple of times) since switching, but not much joy. Anybody else have this? Adam
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I'm in the last stages of restoring/fixing-up a 254xp, so if you decide to keep it, feel free to ask any questions on the off-chance that I've encountered the same problem/problems... The 254xp seems to be one of THE pivotal saws in the recent history of chainsaws, and (so far) it's been a pleasure to work on. You'll be hard-pressed to find anybody with a bad word to say about it. I'm a carb-kit away from using it in anger!
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I've been using Green Stripe for parts for my 254. They seem really good/quick, although the postage is expensive, so it's worth ordering several items at once. There may well also be suppliers affiliated to this site, but I haven't found any that can supply the parts I need online...
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Fake Husky 395, although in fairness it's worded fairly carefully.[/url Also, I guess it's only £40, so whatareyougonnado?
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The brake on my 254 (same era, same design I think) is also slightly sickly, in this case it's part 501 87 47-01 that's broken off. The prong-y bit that the brake handle rides along. Might be worth checking since it seems the flimsiest part of the assembly... Not that I have much of a clue, just mentioning because I've literally just had mine apart.
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Thanks Spud, I'll probably go Golf next time I guess although this piston hasn't imploded yet! *touches wood* Put a bar and chain on it today. Running really well now, very very pleased with it. Can't wait to use it in anger...
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Thanks for that Spud! Awesome information as always!! I've tested it again, first with the throttle open (120 again) then closed (160ish). Weird. Then tested open again, 120 again. Then again closed (160) then open it tested 160 too. Strange. Probably will just run it in for a while (don't have a bar or chain for it at the moment) and try again. Seems worth persevering with anyway. Seems like a potentially really fun saw! It's a mako piston by the way. Seemed okish. The old piston had cracked and mercifully doesn't seem to have messed the cylinder up at all. You reckon (of the non-Meteor pistons) that Golf is the best option?
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Yesterday I fired up this 254xp that I've been trying to nurse back to life, and it works! Woohoo! So far I've done the bare minimum to get it running (piston, few gaskets etc). It's running pretty well considering it almost certainly is desperate for a carb rebuild, but compression wise (only a quick look) it's still low. It's reading about 120 with a new piston and ring. The decomp valve was jammed closed when I got it (out position), and I'm wondering (hoping) that the decomp is faulty, which is why the compression reading is low. Possible? Likely? Also, with a new piston/ring, should I expect to see decent compression readings immediately, or does it need to run in? I only ran it for a few minutes at idle with a couple of tiny bips. Sorry for yet more noob questions!!
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Make: Stihl. Seems a little lacking in terms of options!
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Also had very good service from LSE. The fastest online option for Stihl parts that I've found (there may be better options, but I haven't found them). I still use Mr Solutions, but...as Spud's post. Cheap though.
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Yes!!! Thankyouthankyou! It seems to stick out of the top of the top fin. Guess the top cover rests on it...
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Ace, thanks so much! That's so weird because I was sure that was the hole it came from, but I already put another on in there that looked a better fit! Either way I've got one spare... The one I've put in there is squished between the two cases, but the one in the picture looks way too shallow to do anything in terms of anti-vibing. Odd. I guess it's not mission critical in terms of saw performance anyway. Thanks again!
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It's not from the front handle I don't reckon. I looks like it should sandwich between the two parts of the case, but I'm buggered if I can see where.
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Yeah, but where does it live? I (for the fool is me! Who'd have guessed) can't for the life of me find a corresponding hole!
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I have this...friend...who took apart a 254xp so as to replace the piston. I...I mean my friend is putting the saw back together, but I...he has a mystery rubber plug with no home. What a fool, eh? Where in heck does my friend's rubber plug fit? I promise to pass the information on, obviously! Here is where I'm guessing...my friend is guessing the plug must fit (somewhere): Here is the plug:
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Ignore, it's 4mm for future reference! Was only asking because I needed to buy a long allen key to remove the cylinder. :001_smile:
