Rich2484
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Everything posted by Rich2484
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Coming in thick and fast. Three ms200t saws. One needing new seals, now has a funny tick over issue, will run perfect on the ground but on harness will die, but will fire straight back up first pull. One needs new anullar buffers. Last one needs new throttle trigger as won't go into half choke, also a bit funny on running. Pull trigger and it will die sometimes. But others will be perfect all day long. Two (soon three) ms260, One needs new piston. One is running fast, high tick over. And another needs a new piston. And not oiling. And an old stihl. Make unknown as yet as the number has gone off the side, really really really old. Not looked into it yet! but just won't run. Husky 351, hates cold starting and high tick over.
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Ok didn't know. Yes the "what ifs" will be there for a long time. But I do find the best thing is to talk to someone else about them. In my case it's a lifeboat crew member, like a coxswain. In your case you could speak to another member of the mountain rescue crew? Having someone else answer any what ifs and seeing if there is anything you could have done or didn't do will rest the mind.
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Interesting. Hope so as I could find a million uses for those rings.
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If you are one about the round rings that hold the bridge and other parts on a sequoia then you won't be able to as you can't buy the rings anywhere but petzl and they replace them for you. I tried looking for these before. If not then I don't know.
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You can only do what you can. No more. Don't dwell on it. You are neither trained or experienced with any sort of search or rescue. You could have even made things worse by getting in as you didn't know what structural integrity of the pub was. Move the wrong bit of debris and you could end up a casualty. You did what you could do at the time. And hats off to you for it. Such a rare and strange incident.
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The 441 isn't always the handle. It so the lug inside that holds the parts together. It will come lose and the ally around it breaks. The 660, I would check the above first, but the exhaust can be an issue. But I have seen the fix for this with a surround on the out let. But this doesn't always work. A new outlet in the exhaust to divert the gasses away from the handle will work. I don't really agree that they should use metal handles. Plastic or metal, so long as it works it's fine. And with a metal handle who would really think they have a problem with the brake until it kicks and doesn't engage????
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Yeah. It's fine, not. I have repaired one 660 tht had this problem and a 441 also. They are known to have a problem when they start getting hot. It is a bugger to engage. And also noticed on the. 660 that the handle will hit the top of the exhaust and catch on it. Breaking a small piece off the handle. It's not a good look with these saws, the ones I have repaired have both been the peg that the rocker arm part fits onto. Sorry not knowing the real name. It's the part with arms that the spring and band fit onto with a peg, the handle fits into the middle part. The peg will work lose, I did I do a repair to it and it worked well. I hope it's still working, havng heard it's not.
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Urm. Not sure as the. 660 is old hat now, could you be thinking of the 661????
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No your honour. I always leave the animal traps there......
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It would have been the bushes in the starter that had worn out, There is no warning when these are going to go, you may get a one or two signs of a click when trying to start but that's it. They just go. They are real simple things, just a block of soft metal that rubs against the centre and puts power to it to make it turn, there is more to it than this but it would take too long, lol.
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Bit of a 200t niggle that has been bugging me a little bit. I've had a few (almost all) 200t saws with the half choke not working. Now I know this is because of the plastic trigger. So a question. Has anyone every thought of having a metal trigger made up for them. I'm thinking of visiting my local fabricator with a trigger and seeing if they could cast one up. I know this would also wear the white part of the linkage away. But am I just goin crazy? And is it really worth it for a 3 quid part.
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Yeah to look at them they are the same, just need a honda sticker. Depending on what drive you have the clutch system can be made of cheese. And the recoils are a bit funny, easy to stick. But easily replaced, so would suggest having a spare just in case. Adjust the valves and try it.
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Strangely the copy engines arnt that bad. Seen a few lifan ones on a few log splitters and they seem to work well.
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I was. I got stumped by a bar tho. Had an engine all lined up. Just how to attach the bar and a chain to it.
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That sucks. I would offer to help out. I do have a couple of top handles that need testing after some repairs tho. And a hedge cutter I'm awaiting parts for that would also need a test. With me on site of course.
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<p>Oi. I still have this effing 200t of yours. Where are you Saturday? I'm doing a bit of running around so can drop it over to you. I keep kicking it and tripping over it in the workshop. Lol. Let me know.</p>
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Agreed. And I'm feeling for you bud. I will never touch one again. Have a look at how you need to drop the engine out. Then look how the sub frame lines up with it all. Oh and the drive shafts. Sorry de rail.
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It is, but financially easier to just change the pump. Sorry that's the fitter talking.
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What engine is it as there are many variants of engine in the transits. And I wouldn't work on one again for all the money in the world. They are horrible. Stupid design and stupid to work with. And depending on the engine depends on belt or chain. Turbo is worth a check. But my money is on timing or cold start.
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Diesel knock is normally a timing issue. Has he had the belt changed recently? The white smoke could be fuel filter needs a change. Or air filter. Easiest way is to remove the injectors and get them pop tested to ensure they are working ok.
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The wifey not have tea ready again :lol::lol: But yes there are hard working people out there.
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Pump out and work it backwards while squirting the good stuff down it. Then check the feed pipes from tank and the rubber gromit bit that feeds the bar channel. While your there check the worm drive gear is all good. Also check the clutch is engaging the worm gear ok. As in its sitting in the grooves on it.
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Blunt blades will effect the chipper greatly. If they are blunt they will not chip the timber but strip it and it will not throw it well.
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Why bother. A good torch will do. Looks like it has been used like it should now.
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Use some tough plastic or felt around the trees and sandwich it with the roof sheets. Run it up the trunks about a foot, then use a bungee or tree tie to hold it up and tight around the trunk. Will have to have it under the high side and over the low side to allow water to flow. If that makes sense. It does in my head. That's my idea anyway.
