Rich2484

Thanks Barrie. It's just annoying me is all so thinking out loud. Saw will start but not rev up or it does for a few seconds then dies out, but restarts first pull. It does adjust on the screws so it's leading me away from air leak, it's dans aspen one and it's my first time playing with aspen. Vac and pressure test tomoz. Oh and it also ran fine until I put the bar and chain on, then it started playing up. So will remove bar and see what happens tomoz. Have to to pressure test anyway.

What size engine you using? Sorry again for the derail. Compact tractors are good if you can justify them. So having to get them to a site miles away will require a trailer. Plus licences, then you have to get them back again, also a homeowner that doesn't mind a tractor going through there garden. Most wouldn't want it on there nice flat lawn etc.

Yeah that's ok for landy users, but what if not. Like hillux users? A seperate engine to drive a hyd pump to run the grab. Would it be worth it or not, and if so what would be the size of engine that would be needed. What do these grabs need to run from? Or the pumps.

I have a question. If after trying to start a saw and you remove the fuel pipe and there is no pressure there, so no fuel spews from the pipe when taken off the carb, yet the fuel tank breather is all good, does it mean there is a leak and the fuel tank isn't pressurizing? I have tested the tank and there is no leaks, yet the tank won't pressurise when the saw is used. It is that 260 by the way. Will run on tick over yet die when pulled. And I have checked the carb and it's all good.

Just have to ask a questions over that timber trailer. Would it be possible to run one of those on a stand alone engine mounted on the trailer rather than trailer hyd? Was always thinking of a new project next year of building a timber trailer with grab that could be towed with a land rover or 4x4. Or do you think the engine would have to be too big? Was thinking of a compact engine. Sorry for the derail. Just asking when I remember to.

I have a few questions and some points. But first, welcome and hats off to you for the work so far. I volunteer for the lifeboats so know how much spare time it can take up. Also how hard some of the work can be. First question, do you know who will be sponsoring it all yet? Are they good for it? There is a lot that goes into the disaster work, not to mention ins. I know I wouldn't be able to do it as money will never allow it, doing the lifeboats is one thing as it's normally just a short trips, and mostly just a few hours from a day, but packing up and leaving for a few weeks without getting paid is another. Good luck on the quest but to do it just for trees will be a huge problem as most will not see it that way, and why would you need chainsaws as most trees that are down will just get dragged or pushed out the way for the relief to get through. So with that could you not add an extra in, such as power line trained, or any other form of profession? Such as medics, a lot of arbs are trained medics now, also the utility arbs are trained in power line safety and such. Maybe getting people out there under different professions will get you more interest. Good luck.

Doesn't look that bad to me. From a design view. The throttle is only pulled when a log goes onto the arm, and the saw is well and truly bolted in place. But is it me or is there dried blood on the bar??.

Haven't got mine yet....

Ok. Guess that answers the fuel filler problem. Thanks. I do see and know the advantages with the multi ram, but for a kiss (keep it simple stupid) effect I will keep it to the single ram unless it otherwise come apparent that the multi is what is wanted.

It took them how long exactly to come up with that idea????? That's a "back of a fag packet" idea. Could have done the same thing while I was on the toilet....... But there are just two words I can think of at the mo. ZOMBIE APOCALYPSE...

If it's this one I'm going to be very upset as I've been after this one and the bulldozer for ages.... Edit.....DAMN YOU.

Depends on the coil. Easy way, see if a good spark, then increase the gap on the plug until you get no spark, if it still sparks when the gap is ridiculously big then the could is generally ok.

Oh yeah. And is the impulse line in.

It's the big truck with the grab and tipper on the back. I had one years ago. Still got it all in bits somewhere after I moved house. Edit. This one.

Is the meter arm set right on the carb? Is the could all good and spark nice and strong? Could it be the crank seals playing you around sending you in the wrong direction? I have one in at the mo that will fire and tick over nicely but pull the throttle and it dies. So testing it tomoz. Settings should be 1 turn on the low and 3/4 turn on the high.

That's roughly the plan. I do have to move the fuel tank filler. As it runs into the old body. This will need a new mounting area. So in I'll have to build that aswell. The body that's on it is on a 4inch lift. It also has some big tyres. So will have to make some wheel arches into the box, maybe. It's a maybe as with the sub frame of the box it will lift the bottom of the box up. But with suspension travel it may become a problem. So will need to put a ton in the back of the hillux to measure the travel properly. The fabrication is the easy part. I have no problems doing this, just takes time to ensure everything is nice and square before the final weld up. And a few measurements of the frames to ensure the ram will be able to sit where it needs to. And adding some spacers where the chassis bends and curves so the sub frame sits nice and square. Form e the hardest part will be the fuel filler, may need to investigate if there are any issues with mot testing and it's position. I can't move it very far as the tank is high up on these anyway. But should be able to clear it under the box.

Blooming horrible it is. Windy and horrible. Where due to go out on a new year run on the boat this morn. But binned it and went for breakfast instead with the crew. Sometimes it's just time to say sod it let's eat.....

Single stage, but may change it with a few that are around the workshop. And there are a few. Not sure on configuration as yet, as it's really in the very early stage, not really had a very good look at the hillux bed and need to start the plans for the box chassis to match the hillux chassis. There is one cross member on the chassis that can be used but it's a round bar rather than section. So if this can't be used I will have to add a cross member to take the ram. The kits come with everything else.

Yes it is john. The ram extends 700 but still has the other length of ram. So doubles it. Makes sense in my head.

She is so going to kill me for this. But....

Could have just brought the same size posts and removed all the old ones from the concrete, then just drop the new ones in. Add a bit of water and the posts will swell to fit the old holes. Easy. Of course postcrete is the best invention since sliced bread,

Ask him. I bet he does. But they will be the American ones....:lol:

Has to be a very strong cheddar for me. If it doesn't burn the roof of my mouth I'm not interested. But the only exeption to this is the applewood smoked cheddar. A nice soft creamy cheddar. Just lovely on crackers.

You will have to find the true maker of the saw and go from there. Or use google images to find a match. If not Randy's repairs is you man. He has everything.

Stupid iPad...08s....