codlasher

An old friend has had three of these walking machines. The first, bought in the early 80's from the manufacturer followed by a home made copy in the 90's and its 'improved' version which is current and works every day five days a week, 52 weeks of the year. It is easy to tow, quiet & cheap to run, makes no mess and simple to repair. It will dig a six foot deep trench quicker than a mini 360 on any slope. What more do you want from something so simple? codlasher

Draw a map to scale & label what & where each tree is planted coz you'll forget in a decade...... My wife & I argue over the trees we planted and she's remembered her Suffolk pink is really a Naarfik something-else. codlasher

To Hairyonyourchest & Mr Bolam; She's a community nurse in the very centre of oz, not a gin rep:001_tt2: so needs a reliable motor that can get about within reason. She'd be amused at the gin quip though. codlasher

My eldest daughter has a forestor. She has done serious milage in it now and it is still going strong. Trips to remote settlements over dirt roads are not unusual and to date it hasn't let her down in the six years she's owned it. codlasher

Never had a Holley or Offenhauser manifold on any V8 but what did make the biggest difference was fitting Lumenition optronic ignition to them. Even with twin points the lobes are so small setting by dwell meter was the only way to get it right untill you throw them away. I've even fitted Boyer contactless to my old,old Stewart Turner P66 engine and it runs like a speedboat! codlasher

A good well established bramble hedge intersected by a barbed wire entanglement will stop most things. Including your flail tractor! Plus you get the blackberries in the summer. This co had problems with Eastern European poaching and found uncoiling razor wire round the worst boundary helped to slow the poachers getting in....Trout Fishing at West Wycombe Park codlasher

Similar in looks to an Efel but the Efel had a one piece top hinged door with vertical strips of glass. The top canopy lifted up and the door swung & went under this, hidden by the canopy so changing it to an open fire. Plus the usual gold motif particular to Efel. I'd put my money on Hunter. codlasher

I'm afraid all the old boys I knew are long dead re constructing the pit for a 48" but I have built a pit for a 36' if this helps. This is twenty year old info so please excust omissions! There should be 4" space below the bottom wheel. Allow for your sawdust extractor on the RHS in the side (if this is an anticlock machine)and use a long 90 degree bend so the flow is easy. Leave a good spigot at floor level. You can add a chamfered pipe to get close to the bottom wheel later.... I had a metal enclosure but mine originally cut foreign hardwood so getting the dust away was important. Allow for all the electrics at this point too, preferably in conduit for access later. Don't forget the rope/wire to pull cables through. Emergency stop button & etc. There are rules for 30 second stop which Stenner will advise on, with an electronic device which brakes the motor but mine was never fitted with one. I think it is called 'A' stop or some such. Allow enough space on the working side to access the blade easily. You don't want to have a fiddly bit here particularly handling a new sharp blade! My 36" had X 3 off 9" wide planks that came out so a 48 may be good for X4? This space is also good for sawdust cleaning access which will need doing. You'll have to work from the bed base legs to get the height of the top rig pad so perhaps a dry run on wooden blocks to get your measurements. On our old Guilliet there was a little set of table wheels that sat on the base casting of the top rig, just where the lower guide blocks were. I'm not sure if Stenner's have this but make sure these are with the set up when it arrives. I'm hoping you saw it running before it was dismantled? Good luck! codlasher

I'm the same as chipper080. I have the old blue book quals. The one we were all, at the time, promised would last a life-time and we would never have to do again....EVER. Bollo*s! Grrrr Yes knackered knees, stolen big saws which have never been replaced and too far now from the trees. I think the technical word for taking the buttresses off prior to the harvester is called 'legging in'. Yours codlasher.

Name & shame? They can't do anything but at least you can forewarn others! codlasher

I caught a part of this hoo-ha today. Interesting, and will we ever hear the real story? I can understand the frustration of those living in the streets most affected as this is a major landscape change and the way is seems to have been organised looks to be somewhat underhand. According to the media reports I heard. A perspective that came to mind was the felling, in the early 1970's, of The Grand Avenue near Stowe. (The Path of Life) At the time there was a huge outcry because this was a major landscape change with 300 year old trees being felled. I took a drive there recently to see how the next generation of trees were doing, after a 20 year break, and was very pleasantly surprised. The beech, oak ,chestnut & lime were doing well and the avenue was looking well.... like an avenue should. This avenue is ranked in the National Trust's top six so a major British landmark. On the back of this I would hope that Sheffield CC would or could learn something AND those folk who are so understandably upset can consider the future, some years hence, that they will again have some fine trees in their streets. I'm hoping that a good species mix can be nurtured and grown in a challenging environment. Perhaps this is a little too optimistic? codlasher

Very nice indeed! Thanks for showing. codlasher

£1 for each filter. £45 & £55 respectively for the plastic bags...... I like & use this co for my filter needs; https://www.inlinefilters.co.uk/ codlasher

As with Logsnstuff I only have experience with my elderly Posch (Blue & white model) tipped circular saw. I have the occasional jamb but the stop cord is always within reach and at 450 RPM (not 540 by the way) it soon stops. New belts were fitted six years ago and from memory I've only had half a dozen emergency stops since then. Yes the chainsaw machines have bigger capacity but then you have a different ball-park log size too, in my eyes too big to handle without add-ons. From my forestry/sawmilling background I still believe the bigger sizes should be put into the mill! Perhaps an out-of-date attitude but there I go.... My machines spares are only a 'phone call away and delivery within 24 hours too and for a 25+ year old machine I call that service! codlasher

I have a Morso 3610 Morsø 3610 - Morsøs largest wood burning stove This has been in for 9 years so in between modern & old. Probably a bit big for your needs but they make fine quality cast-iron stoves. We have an Arrow 5Kw (the've improved this since we bought it 8 years ago) in our snug which heats all our water when there's no sunshine. Aarrow Stoves - Multi Fuel Stoves, Wood Burning Stoves, Gas Stoves, Electric Stoves & Ecoburn Stoves Again a great stove. I like Jotul and nearly bought one and as some folk have posted there's some goodies out there with the Morso squirrel being high on the list. Look at second-hand resale prices to see that these are well made. As with all well known makers if you do break a part at least you know the replacement will fit! codlasher

I have had great success with this; Permeable Plastic Pavers | Gravel Driveway | Car Parks | Porous Paving Grids Do not be mislead with the scrape, lay & play. A client had some thrown down in a gateway during the summer. By winter it needed digging up and trust me when I say it was a horrible job! The plastic squares are lovely & light to start with but when full of wet mud are horrible to move. Very few were reusable to make it worse as they split when pulling, so a waste of their money. If you are going to do anything like this please do what the co recommends, ie lay a good sub base. I can drive my 7.5 ton excavator and/or a fully loaded tractor & trailer over my Bodpaved track-way in any weather. The animals can mill around on it and the grass comes back in the spring. What more do you want! codlasher

I had one job where a willow was undermining the 16th century timber framed property. Heaving the tiles of the kitchen floor and moving the entrance door. The solution was not to cut the tree down, as it was in memory to the clients wife, but to dig a 2.5m deep x .450mm wide trench 10 metres long and fill it with concrete. In doing this we removed two 90mm roots that had been quietly mining under the wall! I posted this some time back and looking back the operation has been a great success. House happy, tree happy, client happy. Problem sorted. codlasher

TB 175. I have the thumb control for the grapple. The crowd ram is turned off manually and diverted to rotate. (see the picture) This then operates in a similar way to my old County/Botex forwarder. Rotate on the left-hand lever. right for clockwise & left anti. All attachments are on flush faced couplings and as you can see I have wrapped the pipework in spiral guarding. Approved Hydraulics supplied the Baltrotor to suit the machine. You could restrict the flow on the grapple circuit as it is quite fast. If I used this more often I probably would. Disadvantages are that you are operating a machine with crooked arm and not a straight one so I sometimes find height restriction an issue. If this was a permanent fixture I'd probably not have the quick-hitch but with all multipurpose tools there are compromises:001_smile: codlasher P S. As Eddie has suggested fit a screen! Good call.

AS has been mentioned by peatff. I found these at an APF some years ago. As ever the Kiwis come up with good quality ideas! Safe Eyes Protective Eyewear | Safety Glasses They're grrrrreat. I'm sure they can still be obtained in the UK codlasher PS. Found one; https://www.sorbus-intl.co.uk/safe-eye-mesh-goggles c

I've not used their cone splitter but I have had dealings with this company for a good number of years. They provide a helpful and professional service. Fitting a grapple rotator to my 7.5 ton excavator was made easy with their advice. codlasher

I like a contraption called The Buckingham Woodstation. This seems to cope with wriggly sticks. I wish it had de-mountable wheels and a draw-bar though. Then it could be towed by a quad. cosdlasher

Ah well, you can but dream! I was only offering a timeline in the broadest possible sense. You can do as you wish but if you actually want to 'do' what you ask this is the 'how to'! You say you have the skill-set.......Use it before you get too old! Plus the certain fact that a lot of long-time-sat-around timber will slowly fill up with wood-worm or simply get in the way and end up on a fire.... codlasher

I'd have to say chainsawmilling is fine for the odd small run of big or wobbly timber but a whole proper sized house-worths is really hard work and such a waste. I'd find a willing sawmill, and this doesn't have to be that local either, and work out a good cutting list for all the structural timbers that you want to see. Infills can be from your local merchant and will come ready treated for fungal & worm. Use your already considerable skill-set to do; 1, All the groundwork. Drains, footings @ services. This will save a fortune. 2, Employ an experienced & tooled-up specialist timber framer to cut/process all the timber that will have been delivered to your site and turn it into your house frame. Be their labourer and apprentice. You'll learn heaps. agg221? 3, Erect said frame onto the plinth that you have constructed using your mates & your own expert skill-set. 4, At roof height on a hired scaffold, you & your mates fit the roof timbers onto the wall-plate on top of the trussed & purlined roof structure. Infill with huge amounts of insulation and then pay a zinc roofing specialist to cover everything over. 5, infill the walls when the roof is done and presto you have a lovely empty shell that is secure and ready for the winters work! From experience, as a rough guide, it takes five days to cut all the joints on the main frame and a day and a half to assemble, plumb and drill the pegs. some parts can be assembled on the ground too which makes life a little easier. Chainsawmill the curved braces from wobbly timber as mills find this difficult. You'll have to acquire the crooks first! Pictures please! codlasher

Local paper tells of a couple of enterprising folk who rented a farmers barns for a year or three. A strictly cash affair. They were in business offering a county-wide rubbish clearance service which included collecting & disposing of old tyres. One day the farmer fails to get his monthly rent and goes to the barn to find the two gentlemen where he discoveres it crammed to the rafters with 10,000 tyres and a lot of very smelly rubbish. Someone has made a lot of £'s and it's certainly not the farmer who is left with all the stuff in his barn! codlasher

Good advice. Sounds like a good all-rounder. codlasher