openspaceman
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Everything posted by openspaceman
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Me too
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Yes but on the heavily trafficked areas where they have had to joggle stones into position they prefer you to keep to that line. It just goes to show that conditions vary and no one rule suits all.
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Much the same I think about little used footpaths, rather than step on the vegetation either side people wear a muddy rut in the middle. Eventually coarser vegetation, bramble, gorse briar and nettles intrude from the side and the path becomes unusable. I try to manage a few paths locally so that people out walking can be side by side but it would help is others would stomp on vegetation and carry the obligatory secateurs. The lowland paths are a bit different from hill walks where it is best to keep to one line to avoid erosion.
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Nope, over 60 is as subset of over 50 as is over 70. Happy birthday Mick -
Isn't that for stacks of roundwood rather than cut and split firewood?
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I don't have a twitter account but is there any sound or indication of country. It looks like the saw jammed, she was handing a scrench for the guy to get the motor head away and somehow the holding rope had some give. Doesn't explain why the lady was up the ladder in casual clothes though.
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Not forgetting winter felled trees on average have a lower moisture content than actively growing trees.
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This is my experience with stacked cordwood too, it doesn't dry appreciably and the microbes stay active, respiring the volatiles in the wood to produce CO2 and H2O which keeps the moisture content high and of course lowers the calorific value. This is why I repeatedly advocate felling, cutting and splitting in quick succession,
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It is not something I have done but if it has just been left with the pot off I would expect to be able to flush any debris out of the bearings like you say but the issue is can it be done with that crankshaft still in the RHS casing? I would have no qualms about cleaning up the cylinder and using oven gel to dissolve off the aluminium pick up ( I spend days applying a little and leaving it, cleaning off, then re applying until no white marks appear, to show the aluminium is gone), then circumferential "honing" with wet and dry 150, as I do not have a hone.
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Top job then, let us know how it goes and good luck.
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It fits with those flower heads and if you ignore the abrasion mark the bark does look like the old stunted laburnum street trees locally, and it is a legume 🙂
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From the colour of wood I'd guess one of the legumes, crown looks a bit like cercis but not so much the bark, any leaves nearby?
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It's immaterial to me as I get it free and dry it for myself but commercially if you are buying it green the softwood has more water content, so beech and pine both weigh around 1tonne/m3. So if you buy by the tonne green and sell by the bulked m3 at 20% mc there's a fair difference in value as I am sure you know, the softwood is only worth around 2/3 that of the hardwood to the customer whereas if you sell by the tonne they are about the same.
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Yes , he has committed now so get on with it and make a good job of it, I hope it split easily with nothing damaged. On the few occasions I have split a saw I have always decided not to carry on but that one can hardly have any bottom end wear so a clean up, new seals and gasket and it should be good to go.
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All electric or with a low pressure pilot circuit? I looked into changing the controls on the Valmet 828 or 840 as the cards for the computer were getting scarce and it seemed swapping the valve block and joysticks for a complete electric set seemed to be the way to go, a good few thousand even then 10 years back. We never did it and as far as I know all three forwarders are sitting idle in the yard still.
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Mine too but it is the higher lignin content as well as resin
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Per m3 or per tonne?
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I think it's a file for art students who use apple products so not viewable by oily rags like me
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If it really needs all those things doing I would probably give up. What made you decide the crankshaft bearings and seals needed doing and have you a splitter to separate the two halves? A picture of the bore and piston would be good to see, even if just taken through the exhaust port.
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But for the OP's sake can they be changed with the engine in situ? Over high oil level does point to unburned diesel running down the cylinder walls to the sump and if the alternator belt being tight affects the seal it will be because the bearing is worn too I suspect. In days of yore when crankshaft oil seals were not so good the crank had a spiral thread that acted as an Archimedes screw to push out back into the bearing.
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With all those knots from branches and old pruning wounds that is more suited to making some beams, sole plates and tie beams
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That's a McConnel bench isn't it? The FC had some for crosscutting pit props from long pine poles. Michael Richmond had one for cutting logs at home.
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The main thing is that in direct sunlight no matter what the orientation they will produce much more than on a cloudy bright day. As panels are relatively cheap I intend to put a few more up in non ideal positions but am waiting to see if I can have them grid tied with permission from the DNO (as there will be a large excess in summer) or just battery charging and curtail production in summer.
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That will be interesting with photos. I have an old tractor with a pump on the nose but a 1000rpm PTO and it would be handy to run a 540 winch, the thing is far too fast at 1000 and stalls the tractor at low revs.
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I think both @Gray git and @LGP Eddie have driven remote mounted 3PL winches this way
