openspaceman

Having had one poor neighbour out of the three who have lived in the attached house I was glad to see him go. Now whilst it never pays to appease an objectionable neighbour I wouldn't unnecessarily start a row. Also you are supposed to mention neighbour disputes in any future sale details. Just look at past court cases to see how these things can escalate, a boundary determination is cheap in comparison.

Just for interest if you get to agree on a boundary /assets/static/govuk-opengraph-image-dade2dad5775023b0568381c4c074b86318194edb36d3d68df721eea7deeac4b.png Your property boundaries: Apply to record the exact boundary - GOV.UK WWW.GOV.UK About your property boundaries, working out your boundary lines, boundaries and neighbour disputes, agreeing who's...

Trouble is deeds may no longer exist, the map on the land registry is normally not good enough, old 25" to mile OS maps may be. What deeds often show is who is responsible to maintain the boundary, with a Tee on its side on the line drawn on the map. Within the last couple of years my brother received a letter threatening action from his neighbour saying that the brick wall between them was dangerous and his responsibility. It wasn't but his solicitor had destroyed the deeds when the land registry went digital, because he remembered the Tee was on the eastern boundless along the street. However the brick wall including the piers was 2ft wide. So I dismantled the wall where it was dangerous, he gained 2ft of garden and secured the victorian brick pavilion that was built on the wall. The issue here is how litigious is the neighbour. This is a civil matter and the value of the tree is close to nothing. So the damages in any action are likely to be over the appropriation of land plus the biggy, legal costs likely to be tens of thousands heaped on the loser.

This can get very messy but from the way the fence is built, with the back side toward you, I would say it's your fence and your tree.

You are probably right, it was likely the coal burner that was there before I got the wood burner, principle was as described though, long time ago.

Okay I get you now, this is what I know as a linkage isolator valve. Industrial machines are a bit different as the pump is driven straight off the nose of the crank so all the pump power is available. i think the pump on my counties puts out about 13hp so adequate for a processor if you get the right motor to take the flow and get 540rpm at a reasonable engine speed.

Is this the same as a high pressure carry over, to enable two spool blocks in series? @Deafhead had a 50B with back hoe about 50 years ago. I thought they were all torque converter, so there is no PTO shaft drive and although the back axle is the same casing as an agricultural machine there is no PTO shaft through the gearbox and only a blanking plate at the back. How many litres/min flow off the pump and what maximum pressure? I would guess it is enough to run a hydraulic PTO at reasonable engine revs. @Gray git posted some stuff about hydraulic PTO for a winch years ago and possible @LGP Eddie did also.

I was thinking the copper may be a tube rather than wire, a capillary tube controlling the airflow via a flap. The dial setting the thermostat. I had a similar dial which set a air flap but it was operated by a bimetal spring, on a Franco Belge log burner.

Are trees manually felled then skylined/highleaded out and processed on landing? If so what happens to the lop and top? I used to think I was doing well to get 10 tonne up on a simple highlead. Modern forwarders put paid to that as the hills round here are not steep enough to be beyond their capabilities, ground damage is another thing though.

When I bought my first saw it was a Husqvarna 280CD 77cc saw with a 24" bar, on the grounds it was able to do anything. Just about the first job I got was felling <6" birch poles and crosscutting them to 10ft. I managed and it was lighter than the Danarm DDA110 I had been using but it was nose heavy, too heavy and if I dinged the ground took a hell of a lot longer to sharpen. It ended its days with a 15" bar at the skidder landing as it had the grunt to cross cut dirty stems. We quickly settled on 60cc saws with 15" or 18" bars.

Yep, you got him.

That doesn't ring a bell. There used to be a group of "tree sugeons" that traded as *insert surrey town name here* tree surgeons and he was one of this group from Mitcham originally.

You are not wrong but most of them will have done some non vocational further education, post A level. It's just a reflection on how we have sacrificed our technical trades, like engineering, in favour of a service economy which has hastened the decline of the economy as a whole.

Yes weigh up the very few pros against the substantial cons, if the result is positive then have a word with your maths teacher.

A firm up the A23 just north of Hooley used to use one, you could see the cubes of crushed brash in a field . I expect the chap's name will come to mind over the next few hours 😉

After my uncle was killed my dad signed up with the RAF but too short sighted to fly, ended up in Burma fitting radar to beaufighters and mosquitos (he said the glue failed in the heat). He was dab hand with a soldering iron as a result. he told his family his job was guarding the cookhouse to avoid speaking about the top secret stuff he was doing.

Mine actually, saw off my mate the same age yesterday. I prefer her later stuff

That's where my uncle lays, shot down returning from Dusseldorf 80 years ago tomorrow. He would never have known the tide of the war had turned.

I still have a 2.3 out of a pug 504 van, 300 miles since total engine rebuild and one of the lads rolled it. I took it out because I couldn't bear to throw it away. Freebie to anyone who wants to play but it will need a new sump as it wore through dragging it around over the years.

Whilst I have no direct experience of masonry stoves I do have a lot of experience of the effect of slow heat release from a chimney breast. As my stove runs about 16 hours a day in winter and the house is very small (77m2) the chimney breast gets warm to the touch even in the bedroom above., with a thermal image one can plainly see the route of the flue and the gradual heating of the wider brickwork. This is so as the chimney is cement lined and does not have a flexible steel liner.

Yes but the union just above the tie looks weak and could develop a problem if the future. Agreed it is a bit late to prune it off but maybe the whole branch could be tipped to suppress its growth.

Funny you mention that, here we were in the trial area for showing ID and the reason given was because of voting fraud in a ward predominated by first and second generation immigrants from Pakistan.

Not got round to doing anything with it as the owner had bought a small brush cutter for all the weeding she needed doing, I have far too many projects on the go.

I asked before but they don't seem at all common

I don't know but because they burn so hot I doubt there is much soot to sweep off. I have no direct experience but have exchanged posts with Norbert Senf, of the US Masonry Heater Association, about various aspects.