openspaceman

Yes we used a loading shovel with a tip-on-the-lip grain bucket, 17 lifts to 24 tonne, the JCB 535 also did it easily but 54 lifts to the load with standard bucket.

Yes and yes. I look on it as similarly to the way gas turbines are used to generate most of our electricity, at first they were only used for peak lopping as they sent their exhaust away at over 800C, then someone realised that steam plants operate at no more than 700C steam so they used the exhaust to raise steam and the overall thermal efficiency went up above 50%, in theory the 50C water from the condenser could supply some heating but it is too low a temperature to distribute. Same with the kiln, it cannot be worth condensing the vapour from the kiln exhaust and then feeding it back because the mass flow of the air change is not big enough to transfer the low grade heat from the condensate but if the condensate can run above, say, 30C it could run underfloor heating close by. As you rightly point out it is the extra capital cost of the equipment all the while heat is cheap that militates against it.

Yes I just take my old ones to a local stockist(Steerforth or PPK in Aldershot for me) who measures everything up and orders a kit for me, picture is just showing the piston seals, you should get the gland seal as well. About 25 quid per cylinder for the 4 slew rams I did in July 19.

Yes in general an oven does not have air changes (and those mine does bleed is to keep the fan motor and bearing cool) any unnecessary air mass flow is wasted heat. Yes but that warm air actually cools as it absorbs the liquid water and turns it into a vapour and takes it away, so the heat in the air needs constantly to be replenished as it supplies heat to the wood. I think you mean it need not be and most are not but the hotter you supply the air up to the point it starts changing the wood, the faster it will dry. The decision on temperature is mostly to be to do with cost and heat loss, the heat loss at the higher temperature has to be balanced with the lower heat loss but over a longer time with the low temperature. The higher temperature driers offer the opportunity to reuse some of the heat in the exhausted gases or vapours.

The bit in this that fascinates me is; whilst the face covering is supposed to stop aerosols containing virus getting into other peoples breathing space and social distancing coupled with sanitising hands to cut the risk of contagion from fomites or infecting from the air then it should apply to all diseases transmitted this way. Are we seeing a reduction in colds, flu, measles and especially STIs? The other thing is has the medical science advanced sufficiently that an overweight 74 year old will have little risk of dying or is it that poor people just don't get good treatment. I say this because Peru seemed to have a severe lockdown but a high death rate.

I know the small tip on a carving bar is to reduce kickback but is it solid because a sprocket tip cannot be made this small?

It looks okay but hard to tell from pictures. When you run a finger around can you feel and scratches, a finger is sensitive enough to feel a ridge of half a thou. Is that light colour by the on the head from running weak or just an ephemera of the flash? When you get the new piston stick a new ring in the bore, keep it square with the piston and measure the gap at several places, if the change is a lot then the bore is worn. I haven't come across worn, as opposed to ruined, nikasil bores but the plating is only 20thou thick. I am told concrete cutters often wear it through to the aluminium.

Me to and I use it for hedge trimmings, it reduces the volume considerably. I wish I could find a cheap driven wheel one.

Natural UHMWPE Rod WWW.TRENTPLASTICS.CO.UK natural uhmwpe rod

I doubt it is nylon, probably ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene Many many years ago this firm Polyethylene Sheet, Rod & Tube Manufacturer | Aquarius Plastics WWW.AQUARIUSPLASTICS.CO.UK Aquarius Plastics is an experienced manufacturer of polyethylene sheet, rods and tubes, with custom machining... Supplied me with two sets of wear plates for my FMV crane extension slider, the first set is still in there without appreciable wear. My mate milled them to shape on a normal NC mill.

I can only speak for the Eder 1800; as you finish tightening the rope you ease off on the tail rope, which cuts the throttle to tickover and simultaneously the tail rope is held in a cleat, thus maintaining tension until you grab the tail rope and pull at full throttle again. I'd happily come and demonstrate it if I were nearby

It's a strange thing, people's attitudes. In this case I was happy to leave the bloke feedback as he was so laid back, I phoned him on the morning of the job and he readily accepted the leylandii chip, when my boss got there and phoned he was given directions where to tip. The next day just the same, tipped a truck load of chip and a trailer load of chogs off the tree, they never saw anyone on site. Mind both drivers said after a bit of rain the field would become a bit soft for most vehicles. The thing is I would never normally get involved but when the guy I was working for said he was going to tip 15 miles away I logged on with my phone (I'm usually desktop only) and found the site 4 miles away easily from the map. So the price of a beer is a small cost. Funny thing is the chap I was working for never said a word yet it saved him probably 50 quid in travel time and fuel.

This is taught to show the brake is capable of stopping the saw from full power and only at first start of the day. I maybe do it every few weeks. In dense brush I may flick the brake on before I move but generally try and move while the saw is on the opposite side of the stem. IMO the chain brake is an emergency device and not something to be used to stop the chain before moving. It is good practice to apply the brake before putting the saw down or handing it to someone (engine off) but it is something I never got into the habit of. I would advise never to move with the chainsaw in one hand and running but if you must then flick the brake on simply because I saw one of my employees do this and cut the backs of his fingers on his right hand because the chain was still moving. In fact this is how chainsaw carburettors are designed to work, mid throttle running constantly is likely to be running with mixture too weak or rich (weak mostly IME)

Same but not so much done because of recent circumstances, it is lighter to carry with 100m of rope, slings and shackles in backpack than a 3.5 tonne tirfor and 100ft of wire. On its low speed it has1800 kg force pull. If you can spike up 6m I would reckon it would deal with most and doubling the height makes more sense than using a pulley and block to double the pull. As with a Tirfor the pull is relatively slow so you have little chance of a dynamic pull with the lean off to one side of the pull without a second static line. What are the rules on using spike and strop with no safety line nowadays?

I took it as meaning no thanks ?

@Steve Bullman nothing showing in the two browsers I use and I'm authorised to buy you a pint.

I'm struggling to see where to leave a review other than "liking" the tip site we found on the map and used today and yesterday.

It looked like a thumbs up to me ?

It is incipient decay and it will have lost some tensile strength but as its main use is joinery or veneer this is not such a problem as if it were for beams or rafters. If you look closely at the butt the deeper reddish chocolate brown seems to extend beyond the heartwood. I put a piece onto a Carl Danzer lorry in about 1985 which I got paid £15/hoppus ft for (at a time when oak planking butts were selling for £5-8Hft) but I had to cross cut the butt and roll it aside to be inspected both ends and all round before he would give me the purchase order, it was also 3 metres long, which is significant as the premium market was for veneering boardrooms in city offices and one butt had to produce enough veneer to do the complete room. I suspect the rot pocket from the first branch will extend into the length and it looks like the butt is less than 8ft but still definitely worth milling. Often the brown will be alternated with unaffected heartwood to give a tiger stripe which is also attractive, a friend of mine milled some for his house flooring but it sits in stick under some plastic sheets and I fear it will have deteriorated before it finds a use.

All wheels should be braked for road use

Me too although I never got further than using flying and fixed bollards and have never used a zip line when lowering.

Yes it would have to be cheap to cover those costs, what is the mark up on flue components, 50%?

If you are not offering it for sale then why not. Otherwise you would have to produce a technical file proving it conforms to all the regulations and then issue a certificate of conformity.