openspaceman

Yes I think this is a job our fitter got wrong on the tracked 340 and subsequently the bearings didn't last, so the machines were sold. The chipper always seemed very good the few times I used it. I think the outer shell of the bearings were proprietary to Jensen which made them expensive. If I were involved again I think I would pay the dealer to do it right.

Yes if you use one of the thin flexible discs jut run down the side of the bolt to take out the thread and side of the shear nut. Then tap the remainder loose. If there is a washer there no damage done to the paling.

This is true of many small woods, often after the better timber has been taken and the lesser stems "recruited" to be a final crop in order to get around the need to replant and maintain. We lost our culture for looking after woodlands after the two world wars. I doubt natural regeneration to the level I think you mean was ever much of a feature of coppice with standards, unlike the French who aim for a dense carpet of oak seedlings prior to felling the remaining seed trees and then intensely managing the regeneration for many years. The English seem to have wanted to shut the gate on the wood apart from regular sales of underwood, the onus being on the coppice worker to tend to any maiden oaks. From the coppice workers point of view this was onerous as the oaks then detracted from the coppice crop. When you neck off that fallen stem remember 1cm at the bottom is worth more than 20cm at the top of the sawlog and most instructions for safely separating the root from the butt involve leaving quite a bit of the best timber behind. Consider also a small tear out of the buttresses top and bottom from a tight boring cut can easily be dressed out without affecting the sale value at all.

Brilliant. What's powering the hydraulics? It says the under seat HondaGX630 21hp

Fencing oak was a size as well as a quality, generally a tree that would have grown on for the butt to become "planking" or a longer length a "beam". Your picture shows a typical oak grown as a standard with an under storey but the canopy has closed or its own crown has self shaded over some lower limbs and they have died off, leaving dead knots, making the second length less desirable. All of it would be good enough for a small oak frame as the bits with dead knots while not having strength in bending would work in tension as sole or wall plates or tie beams. The butt end is clean so good for rafters and posts, 40 years ago the length up to the bottom of the major scaffold branch you have left on would have fetched £1.50-2.50/Hft in full lorry loads. I've been out of it too long to know current prices. The most valuable piece is the butt from the root plate to a bit below that dead limb at the bottom pointing into the ground at an acute angle, if a sawmill wanted this it would pay enough to make the rest not worth considering for anything except firewood or mining timber (a market long gone)

dragging brash all day is the most gutty un rewarding job even when paid

I see in my original post I said angle driver when I mean angle grinder. Also as I said if you gently tap the dome head on the other side to the shear nut you can often onscrew with your fingers. Failing that I used below 1/2" square drive with a static lump hammer on the dome head and the grip nut on the other. You have to sharpen the grip nuts with a dremel after use, @aspenarb's serrated socket looks better. Back then I didn't have a decent cordless impact driver

A donation to air ambulance for half that would be okay if someone wants it as is, I'll first check if it runs. I'd let the Dolmar 114 go too but that owes me 20 quid I'll just hang on to my Jonsered 621 and my more recent working saws.

I realise that contraction causes massive forces but I don't think I ever re tensioned a chain that was loose because it was hot. I also never loosened off a chain for storage but then I never ran chains super tight that I couldn't pull them round with thumb and forefinger.

That's my take, it's the distance from the bearing that defines the force the bending moment exerts on the crank and bearing and this is less significant in use than someone trying to yank the chain out of a jammed cut. I can see a hot, tight chain contracting having a bad effect too but how would it get that tight and hot if the oiler is working.

You have a head start with ash if you have split it even better. Drying will be speeding up from here on in apart from days you can see your breath.

Okay I haven't seen anything of this, I am a self supplier of firewood in lots of less than 2m3

Please keep up at the back; I was asking where @Justme had seen that the testing would be done by visiting a cutomer's premises, taking a sample log and testing it. AFAICS the enforcement section does not mention this The Air Quality (Domestic Solid Fuels Standards) (England) Regulations 2020 WWW.LEGISLATION.GOV.UK These Regulations are made under section 87 of the Environment Act 1995 (c. 25). They make provision restricting... Anyway you cited the earlier draft, not that I know of any differences.

Are these woodsure terms or part of the regulations, if either would you link a cite?

@GardenKit is the chap that deals in mowers and repairs, he may know where to get stuff.

Interesting, how does it function, do you cover the hole with your finger to prime it and then when uncovered it drains?

Yes the B&S engine primer is different in that it actively squirts fuel into the inlet to richen the mixture for cold start, over use will flood the engine with petrol. Still shouldn't have a hole.

Well the debate arises because of a change in the law, judging lawfulness is not about being fair it is about being just. Then we have to consider why it was thought necessary to change the law; it was driven by the requirement to reduce airborne particulates which are largely the result of combustion. So what is the effect of water in a log that affects emission of PIC particulates? I'd guess it mostly arises from low combustion temperatures and those are mostly influenced by the amount of water evaporating in the combustion chamber, if so then it will be an average amount of water that influences combustion conditions rather than if the outside is dry and the inside wet. Without getting involved in the debate over kiln drying versus air drying I would expect a log air dried over a few months to have a fairly uniform moisture content. OTOH an astute kiln operator wishing to increase his throughput may go for a short hot cycle that removes the same amount of moisture but only from the outer layers of the log and then sets them aside to gradually reach an equilibrium throughout. A charlatan operator might choose to bake the logs skin deep and put them on the market without removing any appreciable amount of moisture, these logs may show zero moisture on the surface and 30% when split and sampled in the middle.

I'm not convinced of that in a single log but persuade me.

If it's anything like a normal 2 stroke bulb it should not have a hole. The bulb sucks fuel from the tank, through the carb and back to the tank via two non return valves in order to purge air from the carb.

Not enough for a mud anchor

A local chap was employed to litter pick the local common, he was refused access to the county council run civic amenities site because it had become commercial waste since he was paid. In fact as the litter was discarded on land open to the public it was the county council's responsibility to clear it so the charity employing him were saving the county council from discharging their duty.

I've got one of them but some bits missing, is it worth anything?

As a rule of thumb I allow 50% airspace 50% wood for randomly jumbled logs and 30% airspace 70% wood for hand stacked logs.

Happy to hire with operator as long as it covers expenses.