openspaceman
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Everything posted by openspaceman
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That's always a good scare tactic; I bought a thinning from the forestry commission on a farm they had retained their plantations on but had sold the farmhouse and some fields for the new owners horses. They replaced the unmade acess track over which the FC had retained rights with a new concrete road. When I came to extract timber they claimed if any cracks occurred I would be liable. Not my problem but I was surprised when the FC caved in and I was unable to harvest the wood.
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Balderdash, it's an oak of poor form that completely dominates a small garden which it overhangs and is considerably reducing the owner's enjoyment of his property.
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I posted a relevant bit from the 1992 access to neighbouring land act. It needs a court order and a county court judge to liberally interpret the law.
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you would still need the support of the tree from the servient, council, land unless you left an anchor overhanging the garden.
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You might consider an application under the 1992 access to neighbouring land act although it is a bit of a stretch from what is specified: 1 (4)(c)the treatment, cutting back, felling, removal or replacement of any hedge, tree, shrub or other growing thing which is so comprised and which is, or is in danger of becoming, damaged, diseased, dangerous, insecurely rooted or dead. else just get a tracked mewp in there
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So that is based on a stage 1 V8, basically a series 3 with selected 4WD. In normal road use are only one pair of the rear wheels powered and the other via the PTO part of the transfer box?
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Yeah but the single biggest type of plastic litter I come across (and disregard royal mail rubber bands as they are natural rubber I think) is cableties.
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If this were a one off I would have said go for aluminium nails, simply because my experience of stainless screws is they snap when you try and unscrew them if they have been in green wood any length of time, ordinary plated steel ones are better. Trees put up with nails and screws better than sawmills do. As it is regular then a tying or strapping solution is better
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It looked like a Husky style bastard thread clutch centre rather than the Stihl type with the retaining E clip and inboard clutch
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No don't peen it just do any tuning with a chain and bar installed
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Makes no sense, the last thing a bat trying to lap up blood would want is for the blood to clot
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Don't encourage ratty
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That's a sail engine
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You ran the saw without the chain on, the inertia as the clutch spins down unscrewed it.
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It's not hardness you need but rather toughness and tensile strength. Normal bolts tend to be 8.8, the next common stronger ones are 10.9 and the highest tensile strength is 12.9, countersunk ones seem to be limited to 10.9 although some sellers do claim 12.9. -
Stail engine??
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The only solution was to cut the old pockets off the rotor and weld on new ones, it was a poor designe compared with the Awhi. @Will C seems to have a handle on it, making sure the wheel is cleaned of any debris so the cutter seats well. Also if they are allen bolts 12.9 are the strongest.
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Looking at your photo of the snapped bolt there is what appears to be a fatigue crack developed from the thread root which then causes the bolt to fail in tension. Can you get a bolt with a longer none threaded shank? I had a similar but not frequent problem with the Plaisance mulcher where the bolt would snap and the bolt head then fly off, followed by the tooth if I didn't notice the problem. It was caused by the pocket being worn and the cutter could rock very slightly fore and aft flexing the bolt head and eventually snapping. The Plaisance bolts did not directly hold the tooth in as yours do.
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Well to my mind they just need a CE and as long as the loader is down when the tongs are attached/detached and anyone is outside the riskzone whilst a log is suspended... In practice of course people will take the risk and generally these things grip far better than a grapple loader that has a log gripped in the tips of the jaws (a no no for forest machine operations)
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The ebay ones open to 1.3m and the Clarke only 0.7 so I would go on the ebay ones even though I would have expected the simple ones to be cheaper.
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It is easier to remember than the highwayman’s which I forget how to tie five minutes after copying it from the knot book, I use it and have shown it to the boss but old dogs and new tricks... The thing is it benefits me over scrabbling about trying to release the running bowline but it also speeds the job up. I first saw it on that youtube video when it was shown here a few years ago.
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They look overly complicated what does that design offer over the ones in this picture? Which is similar to the ones I had before getting a grapple loader in 1984. Mine were allegedly cut out of 1/2" armour plate and in some circumstances, where you cannot get at more than half of the log, bettered the grapple loader.
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I was against HS2 for a number of reasons, the sheer impact on the landscape from the overhead infrastructure being a lesser one not often commented on, but you of all people should know better than to think this 20 minute saving in journey time was the main rational. It was about increasing capacity on the local loops and to move transport toward electricity use rather than fossil fuels. Also Keynesian economics suggest regrowing the economy and confidence after a crash can be done with publicly funded infrastructure projects.
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Using a chainsaw in a public place
openspaceman replied to NorfolknGood's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
that would depend on whether the work was for gain or reward. -
Yes I think you are right, I was put off by the fact we more often see more blue varieties of Atlas
