openspaceman

I see in my original post I said angle driver when I mean angle grinder. Also as I said if you gently tap the dome head on the other side to the shear nut you can often onscrew with your fingers. Failing that I used below 1/2" square drive with a static lump hammer on the dome head and the grip nut on the other. You have to sharpen the grip nuts with a dremel after use, @aspenarb's serrated socket looks better. Back then I didn't have a decent cordless impact driver

A donation to air ambulance for half that would be okay if someone wants it as is, I'll first check if it runs. I'd let the Dolmar 114 go too but that owes me 20 quid I'll just hang on to my Jonsered 621 and my more recent working saws.

I realise that contraction causes massive forces but I don't think I ever re tensioned a chain that was loose because it was hot. I also never loosened off a chain for storage but then I never ran chains super tight that I couldn't pull them round with thumb and forefinger.

That's my take, it's the distance from the bearing that defines the force the bending moment exerts on the crank and bearing and this is less significant in use than someone trying to yank the chain out of a jammed cut. I can see a hot, tight chain contracting having a bad effect too but how would it get that tight and hot if the oiler is working.

You have a head start with ash if you have split it even better. Drying will be speeding up from here on in apart from days you can see your breath.

Okay I haven't seen anything of this, I am a self supplier of firewood in lots of less than 2m3

Please keep up at the back; I was asking where @Justme had seen that the testing would be done by visiting a cutomer's premises, taking a sample log and testing it. AFAICS the enforcement section does not mention this The Air Quality (Domestic Solid Fuels Standards) (England) Regulations 2020 WWW.LEGISLATION.GOV.UK These Regulations are made under section 87 of the Environment Act 1995 (c. 25). They make provision restricting... Anyway you cited the earlier draft, not that I know of any differences.

Are these woodsure terms or part of the regulations, if either would you link a cite?

@GardenKit is the chap that deals in mowers and repairs, he may know where to get stuff.

Interesting, how does it function, do you cover the hole with your finger to prime it and then when uncovered it drains?

Yes the B&S engine primer is different in that it actively squirts fuel into the inlet to richen the mixture for cold start, over use will flood the engine with petrol. Still shouldn't have a hole.

Well the debate arises because of a change in the law, judging lawfulness is not about being fair it is about being just. Then we have to consider why it was thought necessary to change the law; it was driven by the requirement to reduce airborne particulates which are largely the result of combustion. So what is the effect of water in a log that affects emission of PIC particulates? I'd guess it mostly arises from low combustion temperatures and those are mostly influenced by the amount of water evaporating in the combustion chamber, if so then it will be an average amount of water that influences combustion conditions rather than if the outside is dry and the inside wet. Without getting involved in the debate over kiln drying versus air drying I would expect a log air dried over a few months to have a fairly uniform moisture content. OTOH an astute kiln operator wishing to increase his throughput may go for a short hot cycle that removes the same amount of moisture but only from the outer layers of the log and then sets them aside to gradually reach an equilibrium throughout. A charlatan operator might choose to bake the logs skin deep and put them on the market without removing any appreciable amount of moisture, these logs may show zero moisture on the surface and 30% when split and sampled in the middle.

I'm not convinced of that in a single log but persuade me.

If it's anything like a normal 2 stroke bulb it should not have a hole. The bulb sucks fuel from the tank, through the carb and back to the tank via two non return valves in order to purge air from the carb.

Not enough for a mud anchor

A local chap was employed to litter pick the local common, he was refused access to the county council run civic amenities site because it had become commercial waste since he was paid. In fact as the litter was discarded on land open to the public it was the county council's responsibility to clear it so the charity employing him were saving the county council from discharging their duty.

I've got one of them but some bits missing, is it worth anything?

As a rule of thumb I allow 50% airspace 50% wood for randomly jumbled logs and 30% airspace 70% wood for hand stacked logs.

Happy to hire with operator as long as it covers expenses.

SE Hants. PM sent

Well if the small number is only tens of sawlogs my Eder 1800 would get them out and around turns with a redirect, in fact the redirect can be self releasing, making it a one man job. 50yds is not a long distance for one. A tractor winch is probably preferable especially as if the pull is sideways to the tractor you can move back and fore to get the best line for the log but with the portable winch you can walk in with the winch and rope. Of course you could consider a proper horse but...

What's the extraction distance to where a tractor can sit now?

About 15 or more years ago I decided the ivy "fan" on my house was getting out of hand, so I cut it off at the base. I tried pulling tendrils off but it gripped hard to the brick and mortar came away with it. Today I pulled this other bit, it's still grippy to the brick and pulling mortar even though the stems are worm eaten and nearly rotted to dust.

It looks quite heavy and heavy iron was about £120/tonne. Anyway I'm sure it would be better if someone wants to use it. The owner would be open to offers

yes under a sail cloth but it rusting has started so it needs to go.