openspaceman

Good use for the tracked MEWP. It was a lapsed pollard and while reduction was an option it probably was as well to bite the bullet and get the expense done with.

I bought one for 60 quid delivered from Paddocks for use with the Eder winch. it easily holds 1tonne in our sandy soil. It's two flat bars with 4 5/8" clearance holes and 6 2' 5/8 pegs with an eye welded on, all plated. Just set it out as a Vee with a shackle at the apex and hammer the pegs in. Unfortunately it is not listed now.

Possibly one of the gaultheria, shallon was used for pheasant cover, invasive.

I've not found very small burners in narrow boats, Morso Squirrel seemed popular and that takes over a 10" log. I tried to interest my local boatyard in nets of logettes from slabwood passed through a branch logger. The costs didn't compare well with coal. Also at this time of year the stove needs to be kept running constantly and kept in overnight. I would consider the small logs from a branch logger for my own use if I had access to one and was able to handle IBCs or potato boxes of them straight from machine to seasoned in store to fire with no handling in between.

Try Steve (alternatorman portsmouth) 02392368419. These engines are used in canal boats and straters seem to be about 130 quid but Steve may rebuild yours.

There are two reasons why a bit of warmth helps, one is that the dehumidifier removes water from the air by passing it over a cold surface to condense it, if it's too cold the heat exchanger ices up and stops working, this causes mine to pause and defrost. The other is that you are circulating moist air into the dehumidifier, condensing it and sending warmer, drier air out but air holds more moisture when it is warm, so you need to circulate less warm air to get the same drying. Air at freezing point holds a tenth of the moisture of air at 40C.

Probably worth considering both.

I'm not sure that would give out enough heat but then you only have to get the temperature up to about 22C so that a dehumidifier like @Paddy1000111 suggests in a wardrobe sized enclosure will dry most things. Boots and chainsaw trousers from drenched to wearable using a 200W dehumidifier overnight, in an alcove that previously housed an old gas boiler in the kitchen and will get 10 litres of water out in 24hrs. As the water is condensed the energy used by the dehumidifier is added to heat the small space, mine has the central heating pipes running through it.

I test for spark then compression then this. Not something I've come across with saws but the Stihl BT45 drills were forever clogging their mufflers and it was the spark arrestor that clogged.

It was always stone to hone and file to sharpen but last time I felled with an axe was 1983 and I cheated for all but the last 10 blows for the camera.

I've often wondered this because the force used to get the tree over is from a different direction i.e. upwards not sideways and i worry that with alot of force you could pop the hinge off. It's fairly easy to see what's happening with simple applied physics and levers. We only need to consider the cases where the tree is not leaning into the direction of fell and heavy branches are moving the centre of gravity of the tree away from the stump to opposite the direction of felling. To topple the tree you just need to move the line of action of the centre of gravity to past the hinge and over the gob or beyond. Say the line of action of the centre of gravity is 1 metre from the hinge and the jack is 30cms from the hinge. To rotate the tree about the hinge the jack has to counter the weight Mkg times gravity of the tree times its distance, 9.81 M Newton metre but the jack is nearer to the hinge so it has to apply this torque from 1/3 metre so it has to supply 3 times this upward force and this is resisted by the weight of the tree and the tension in the hinge. This upward force on the fibres of the hinge is the opposite from which the fibres are normally stressed and worse as the tree moved the hinge is bent and the fibres at the back of the hinge fail in tension earlier than normal as they are pre stressed. Normally the point at which the strain on the fibres exceed their tensile strength is when the tree has moved around 10 degrees but because of this pre stress they must fail somewhat earlier. With a rope the tension in the rope counters the moment of the weight of the tree without altering the stress on the hinge until the tree moves.

Yes I picked up on that but experience from prosecutions in the roofing trade suggests it will be the lace curtain twitchers that send in photos. What comes across mostly is the sheer arrogance of these desk jockeys

Slow learner then 😀

Did you check the ring gap in the bore?

@drinksloe when you are using the jack on a big back leaner, outside tree with all the heavy branches adding to the back weight, do you ever get the hinge failing from the stress that the jack puts on it? I can remember jacking over a big oak on a field edge, it all seemed to be going right, back into the wood, when suddenly the hinge just let go and it went down 45 degrees into the field, a lot of clearing up. I felt that had I used the winch there would have been far less strain on the hinge.

This is something I slipped up on, I was fine invoicing work but once people started paying by electronic bank transfer I failed to spot non payment and the longer you leave a debt the harder it gets to collect.

I thought methane at first and then wondered if they were clearing out a bin with dried sewage solids and it was dusty. There are a large number of historic cases of explosions in dusty atmospheres where the dust was flammable, e.g. flour mills, saw mills. It only needs a shovel hitting a stone and creating a spark. Dung after all is flammable and used for cooking in some parts of the world. I used to demonstrate such an explosive conflagration with a candle in a big coca cola bottle and a puffer from a lens cleaner.

Never seen one but you could make one up with two thread chasers, also at Tracy

I used to buy bits from them 20 years back. Yes the taper might be the best but for the fact it may follow the cross threaded line first. Have you asked @aspenarb if any of his thread repairers are that size?

Was the offer without prejudice? You can always make a counter offer

30 X 1.5 METRIC WWW.TRACYTOOLS.COM

I agree with @benedmonds and @Khriss as long as you have kept pictures and evidence as you have documented above.

I'm confused, are the first two pictures the only samples you have to go on and the final picture an archive picture of what you think it may be? I have not seen a hop hornbeam opened up and it is not a common tree but those first pictures look like a dead piece of sweet chestnut with the stringy bark bast and narrow sapwood. Especially with that light yellow tinge on the outer rings

Looks like there may be a suitable anchor in the wall behind

Brilliant, I've not seen one of those before