openspaceman

I made a minor attempt at calibrating my meter https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/125741-valiant-moisture-meter/?do=findComment&comment=1887034 I'd need to do the same for a large number of samples to get any idea of accuracy and precision, or lack thereof.

So that's why I managed to get through safely

Amusing but charcoal conducts electricity so I have just tested a bit from my last stove fire a week ago, bone dry but reads 25% on the Valiant

Having played with mine a bit now I accept that it seems reasonably consistent and if the split face is around 20% reading it's fit to burn. Most of my wood is reading around 11-15% on the exposed faces and about 30% in the middle so to get a homogeneous reading I cut a near square section of beech and removed 2" from each end such that all 6 faces gave readings between 28% and 30%. I oven dried this from 131 grams to 98 grams. So 28% on the meter oven dried to 25.2% mc wwb or 33.7mc dwb Still not convinced but tending toward wwb.

Thanks but the screws arrived today, the new version has a slight flange, to give a better bearing surface I suppose, so I shall replace the other two with them also. Saw starts and runs fine and without altering the HI needle it was reaching 13k rpm, so I have backed it off to 12500. I cannot see why it seized as carburation is stable but I have nothing to cut at home so testing will have to wait till I have some work. The rebuilt Jonsered 920 is also fixed after fun and games with a broken recoil spring. The Tillotson carburettor was pretty contaminated with fine sawdust both on the engine side of the diaphragm and under the metering chamber preventing full needle valve opening. It runs fine now but I have set HI idle to 8900 rpm, it sounds too flat but safer for a while. I have to gently ease it over compression and can then only drop start it in the absence of a wimp button. The lady apparently does not want it back. It is too big a saw for everyday use. She now has a Husky 550 so it will be interesting to try the 346 against that. I now have far too many motor saws, 13 at the last count including 3 brushcutters , the 346 is the youngest by about 20 years.

I was out walking the dogs yesterday and a chap was flying a model Vaught Corsair which made me wonder if there were any updates on this find, was it only one engine that came up? How was it identified?

Thanks, so the part @spudulike pointed out is no longer current but the part I ordered should be correct but isn't available, the parts that arrived are the standard machine screw for the later 346 and the too large screws are the handle mounts which I had forgotten I ordered. I'll just have to wait and see what arrives when they are back infrom Husqvarna.

Thanks @spudulike L&S don't list it on their site. In fact I only see it on a parts diagram for a Jonsered 2145. Do you know what the IHSCT stands for and whether the thread form is a standard metric or and Electrolux special?

Well the screws arrived from L&S and the 503 21 55-25 are too large diameter, this is a bit frustrating @adw do you know what is the correct cylinder base machine screw for the early Husky 346xp? One was missing from the box of bits and the ones that were there are 25mm by 5mm but with a coarse thread and cap head.

I think you've answered you own question, without pruning the more vigorous shoot from the rootstock will out compete the fancy coloured leaf scion

I gave away may last teardrop shaped sandvik a few months ago, completely outclassed by Japanese pull saws. Even the footpath volunteer group have lashed out on Silky saws now.

Lime? Smell and stringy bast should be an indicator

Yes it is normally dark green but it has slender wavy needles and is arguably more common than other 3 needle pines. This tree looks a bit suppressed and juvenile which may be affecting its form. If the needles are truly drooping then have a look at mexican P patula, I don't remember seeing one ever but it may fit with the very long needles.

Yes that's right, sorry I thought @Squaredy would be familiar with the term.

I'll put that to him. TDUB?

Actually I think we agree on all points

If it's three my first stop would be monterey (P radiata)

I'm having difficulty in counting the needles per spray.

Okay but the point I am trying to make is that after allowing 30mm to clear the gear head with a 200mm blade you have at best a depth of cut of 70mm so you can sing through 70mm stems, have to have a couple of cuts (once with a pushing blade which is a bit more awkward) above 70mm and a 150mm cut is a bit much. When respacing ( thinning to waste) I would use the brush cutter but would walk back through with a chainsaw for the large stems and spear cut them at 4ft just to drop them below the canopy and leave them hung up if necessary.

I'd still say clearing saw, though when I chiefly used them I think we were allowed 9" or bigger blades, so a depth of cut of 3.5" was possible. I have a feeling you are limited to 8" blade now, or can you get bigger on the 50cc brush cutters?

Much more fiddly to get out but you're probably right.

There seems to be some disagreement about that as @cessna has it from the horses mouth.

Define decent. The chap I pulled 50m3 of alder out for in mid Hants doesn’t appear to be getting much interest.

I'm sorry to hear that Al, I had been hoping to meet up to discuss logging.

Where's the fun in that? 🙂