openspaceman

Yeah I thought lawsons, crushing a frond is the clincher.

Removing or respacing?

7.5+0.75=8.25 with the 107 note

I have reassembled the 346 but won't attempt to start it until the 4th cylinder bolt with the various handle bolts and bar nuts arrive from L&S. I had an old chain but as there were no markings on the bar I wonder if the bar is .058 or.050 as it is quite worn. I'll run it for a while then decide what to do with it.

Lesser celandine is out about the same time as coltsfoot here, early April. We call your cuckoo plant milkmaid, I hadn't heard of most of the other names

Thanks @Conner that's it

Thanks for that again but as long as the shed is rain tight and moisture cannot get into the logs form underneath I d I think the equilibrium moisture content in the UK means it will not uptake water to above 20% wwb. I think the reasoning behind the regulations are that sellers will leave the market and generally less solid fuel will be burned in smaller stoves.

Good to hear your experience, Do you mean you never used heat when drying grain, just blew when the ambient RH was low? This wet layer migration upward is what I meant when I said as the moist saturated air from drying the lower layers rose and cooled moisture condensed, as I said with wood chip this layer was visible.

I wasn't feeling too lively after my second jab, maybe coincidence as no trouble with first, so I got stuck in to some saws rather than completing the little alder bog timber extraction. First was a Jonsered 920 from 1984, fair condition but lightly nipped up, plug was showing a bit lean. As I was ordering other stuff I just decided to buy 2 rings as the saw is a big heavy old thing and probably not the sort of thing for everyday use and I wasn't sure what caused the problem so didn't want to do a full on repair. You can see how worn the ring was from the large ring gap compared with one of the new ones further down after I cleaned up the bore and piston lands. I snapped the fuel pipe getting it off the carburettor so had to replace that. Hard work to pull over and the only way it would fire, just once, was with petroil sprayed in the intake. I will have to have the carburettor apart. I found it very hard to pull it over with the new compression and that plug does seem to protrude a bit far into the combustion chamber but is spins freely enough with no plug. Next was one of my 262s which was cutting out randomly: Easily solved and I have had this happen before, long ago, but can't understand why the piece stayed on the plug to cause the erratic behaviour unless it was magnetised in some way. I noticed a slight weep of fuel from the joint under the fuel tank, a job for the epoxy I suppose, unless I have a spare 262 or 254 tank somwhere, Next was a box of bits from a damaged Husky 346xp, this is an early one with the 42mm piston and no decompression button. It had a badly melted piston but the bore felt okay so I ordered a new Meteor piston from Greece, it arrived 10 days later along with the rings for the Jonsered, no import duty but a few quid more than I expected £38 all in. This saw had been thoroughly disassembled, the sort of thing a local dealer may do to put you off the repair but this was done by the owner's son. So far I have found a missing cylinder bolt, 725 53 33 55 Screw Ihscm, this is a coarse thread allen screw but is it available other than the Husqvarna part at £1.40 and a few quid carriage? I cannot see how the ignition cut out works as it looks like a metal contact plate for the spade terminal, shown loose blue wire, is missing from the red plastic ignition switch, anyone know? It's unclear from the parts diagram. More fun and games figuring how the chain brake handle goes back on.

Back in the day of british railways the coaches were all panelled with sycamore. no one would believe it because they went mahogany brown with tobacco smoke. Back in 1972 or 3 I went to fetch the cows in by the bluebell railway, the cutting was being filled in with municipal refuse then, since re excavated and sent to Bedford. A large sycamore had fallen across the farm track so I got Tom, the boss out of bed and he cut a way through. As I was not allowed to use a motor saw (despite being amazingly proficient with a DDA110 😉 ) after milking I selected a bit out. I really didn't understand the significance of knots or I might have chosen a cleaner bit. Anyway there was a blunt handsaw there which I ripped this 12" ring of pure white wood into a few bread boards which I planed and sanded and gave to family members and the mother of a friend. I know that survived with her as she moved back to Dodsworth as I saw it there 40 years later. Any way the end piece had this defect but 50 years later you can see how it has mellowed and the sheen from the grain as it curls around the branch union. The other side reminded me of a bird so I made a gouge out of an old half round file and roughed it out, it has stayed that way on various walls here since. After that I didn't attempt to mill sycamore again, preferring to sell it in the round but I still think it has become underrated.

I really don't have much space along with my other junk, this is a small suburban garden. I think I can squeeze a few m3 of short billets alongside the garage under some roofing felt. This is why I have a hectic period at the end of the heating season and the time it takes to refill the store and why I only have the summer months for drying.

It's not Friday night so what's the excuse?

That's the worry; if I use all my hardwood this year and fill with cedar next summer I may run short again as I only have 8m3 of covered storage. @Dom who doesn't post here any more says it will take 2 days to get down and it looks about 150Hft plus a third that again in branchwood so it will fill me up and some. There's just about room for a straight fell but the logistics of dragging the top out to the chipper make section felling more sensible and less damage to the lawn, also I'm not that brave or confident any more.

I've ordered one, I could not allow myself to be part of the excuse to increase the wages of the top bods at Hetas so got a deal a couple of quid cheaper online.

I can't as I have no dry wood left. Except some of the beech felled and split in February is just about fit to burn. Looks like the following year will be cedar as I looked at a large deodar today.

The reason for the RH and temperature logger at the top is to see how much of the heat is wasted and how much unsaturated air is being exhausted. There is a dimensionless term called the Biot number which describes how a heat gradient applied at the surface will put energy into the middle. It is used for determining how hot a body will get in free space over time. I suspect the biot number for grain and sawdust is much less than one, hence they accept energy easily and that for logs much greater than one, so they don't deliver energy into the middle very well .

Thanks to @Dan Maynard I was able to save a logfile and produce a chart for about 11 hours today, some 8000 records. Below is the result from outside the front window of this room 1.2m from the ground, 6m from a holly hedge and a further 6m to a minor through road. The results are for pm2.5 in microgram per m3 of air. I did not operate any machines (deference to Sunday) but did light the stove at 20:15 just to see the result as it was fairly warm this evening. From the timing of the other spikes I suspect local barbecues but I was out most of the afternoon.

What would be interesting is to put a temperature and RH data logger just under the top layer of logs, one on top of one of the floor vents would be handy too.

Seems to be a popular pastime, best not say anything about PPE

have you considered branch loggers?

That's an interesting post @Squaredy; plainly you don't *need* to heat the logs to a high temperature because passing low relative humidity air past the log surface will remove water. What the higher temperature does is to increase the rate at which the moisture moves out of the log. So yes high temperature leads to quicker drying but also increases heat loss. When running at the higher temperature if you don't pass the hot low RH air over enough logs it remains warm and unsaturated, hence if you exhaust it you waste energy. This is why many kilns will recirculate air and exhaust a fraction as cooler saturated air. With the grain floor you only have one pass so the air needs to pass a lot of wood surface area to saturate, as it saturate it cools so even if you pass 80C air at the bottom if the stack is deep enough it will become saturated and cool before it exhausts at the surface. I suspect with logs it would need to be infeasibly tall. My old boss's design took low grade heat at 40C so that vented at ambient after doing its drying with very little energy loss other than in the enthalpy of the water vapour.

I didn't use the pi directory just logged it to home, it didn't like the string μg/m^3 in line 43 but worked when those were deleted. Thanks, perhaps we can chat about it some time?

My understanding is these floors have a plenum underneath and then slotted floor for the warm air to pass up through. When there is loose grain on the floor the air is distributed fairly evenly through the grain, also only 2-5% of the mass is exhausted as water vapour. With wood, especially in IBCs I wonder how much of the air will take an easier path between the containers. Also the air only passes through once, with grain that is ameliorated because there is a very high surface area and the moisture doesn't take too long to pass to the surface of the grain. With wood unless you have sufficient moist surface the air will leave the top less than optimally saturated. If you are blowing ambient air the only issue is the fan power but if you are heating the air then it could be leaving the surface still too far above ambient temperature which means heat is being wasted. My old boss built a number of wood chip dryers based on this principle of dry warm air fed in at the bottom and colder saturated air being exhausted and it's an art deciding when the wood at the top is nearly dry because whilst the bottom layers become in equilibrium with the incoming warm air saturated colder air can actually redeposit moisture into the top layers. With woodchip this is visible and obvious but I don't know with logs.

My second try at posting a reply; I have used Hep20 with push fits for DHW but never joining old imperial. I would use a push fit to compression adapter and a 3/4" imperial olive, chiefly because I am poor at soldering wet fittings

Yes, similarly nightjars look like raptors