openspaceman
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Everything posted by openspaceman
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I'm not too sure about this because I think you could bend the crank on an original 262 by pulling it when it's been jammed in the cut, and not snapping the chain, later ones which could take the 3/8 chain had a stronger crank. It's an old memory so @adw may remember better. A chain run out of oil gets very tight, there was a recent post about a makita that had to have a new sleeve put in the crankcase because the bearing housing was oval and I asked if that ovalness came from it being yanked hard.
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but did you measure anything, like the ring gap at various parts of the bore. Air has to be escaping somewhere for that low pressure figure.
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Not really but I wouldn't like to lose the ability to only see unread posts initially
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Well actually some of us didn't initially , and I'm talking well before FISA, but the association was usurped by the wrong people at the top who essentially sold out to the industry knobs.
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Yes I believe so and it was perpetrated by the bigger industry moguls with the collusion of the FC in order to prevent small players challenging the status quo.
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Yodel delivered a battery to me a 055 from numberone batteries, filled, but it did have transit plugs in.
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Yup
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Yes tolerant maybe but not thriving and plainly showing deficiency symptoms yet WRC are doing fine. The site is an SSSI so a bit restrictive with what can be done, when planted it wasn't so.
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I was extracting on a chalky hillside today and took this photo of a Corsican Pine (I think) you will note the yellowing of chlorosis but it is hanging on amongst the dying ash. I noticed one other corsican in the block so my guess is they were planted in mix with beech in the middle of last century. I expect there was a planting failure of both the beech and the pine and ash took advantage. The beech have subsequently been hammered by squirrel damage but elsewhere on the site is some very nice western red cedar. The ash is badly affected but there are individual trees that show remarkable resistance. Because of this I was keen to remove as many of the plainly dying ash in winter 2019-20 in order to reduce the spore load but this was not done.
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The manual will be online as a pdf on the greenmech site else I could email a copy this evening
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I don't know, how are you going to keep it small, bonsai techniques?
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That would probably not allow the root system to entrain enough soil for stability if the tree is allowed to mature
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Cockspur
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That's right, all the time heat is cheap the extra capital cost is prohibitive unless done very cheaply. Also the higher the temperature of the kiln the more worthwhile it becomes, Have a look at the simple plate heat exchangers that are in discarded condensing tumble driers. The thing about these is they recoup some of the latent energy in the warm saturated air which is significantly more than the energy in the hot air itself. The trouble is the massflows of fresh air and exhaust vapour don't match so unless the kiln is hot and you have something you can use the lower grade heat for.. . What may work would be the kiln inside a poly tunnel full of wood waiting to go into the kiln, so a modicum of dying from the larger massflow of the condenser heat exchanger is usable
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Just look at the size of soil pits used in urban planting in surfaced areas of development sites often 3ft deep and 15ft diameter for "forest" species. As to rooting depth this is a picture of a 25 year old thorn I have just pulled up from my garden, ignore the ivy that came up too.
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easy enough to check the soil pH with a test kit. Also iron sulphate will drop the Ph if you keep an eye on the level regularly.
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I think most pines like slightly acidic soils, which is why scots pine invades our lowland heaths which are sandy and low Ph. Would you consider western red cedar?
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Still no explanation of how the wear occurred, was it initially from pulling the saw when it was jammed and subsequently from the outer rotating in the case? A couple of hours in the machine shop would cost nigh on £200 hereabouts
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It will do okay for several years but once it gets big enough for the roots to be affected by the chalk the foliage will turn a yellow green, this is lime induced chlorosis, it is actually a deficiency of iron caused by the high pH. When I started work scots pine were often planted as a nurse crop with beech over chalk but the intention was always to sell the pine as pit props by P25 and let the beech go on to make the main crop. Best made plans of miice and men gang aft aglay.
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Yes I was referring to ground work, motor manual vegetation management. Ten hours on a machine is standard and the harvester driver I worked alongside would regularly do twelve and if he was bored do a bit of a late shift too, as he lived in a caravan on the job.
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I agree with you and constantly advised against 12 hour shifts as being less productive but was overruled, mostly by managers who would kip in their cars and claim the shift. In general it was because the client was willing to pay for a 12 hour shift rather than two 8 hour shifts which would have got twice as much done.
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Hydrogen is a small molecule and escapes from most containers (It's one of two molecules that Brownian motion can boot fast enough to escape earth's gravity) so it's best not stored. Electrolysis isn't the most energy efficient way of splitting it from water but the surplus, intermittent supply is what makes it interesting. Combining it with syngas from biomass to make a cleaner burning diesel fuel looks interesting to me but I have no idea of the economics. The excess carbon then being re interred.
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Back then one could allegedly drive a Hilux straddling the rail with one set in the cess and one in the four foot during a possession instead of having to tab in with all your kit, things changed.
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Let's see if @se7enthdevil responds to this. Not being a wood turner or workbench sort of person but I'd say the centre of the work piece should be at your elbow height.
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I only came across a spark arrestor on the drill, if the Stihl hedge cutters have it it must be in the silencer, I've just gandered in my HL75 with a torch and there is none. If the exhaust looks oily just heat it up off the machine to burn it off.
