openspaceman

Piped culverts aren't very wildlife friendly which is why I said a shallow grip, if you must pipe it in the pipe should be big enough and deep enough that the bottom fills with silt that won't get flushed out.

No you'd need better advice than mine. A grip is just a shallow drain rather than a trench filled with water, shallow sloping sides preferably with enough light getting through for some vegetation to grow as many micro beasties can be put off by having to cross open ground. A couple of sort of examples: down on the New Forest I came across an electrocuted otter, big animal rather than what we are discussing, but I couldn't understand why it had got out of the river walked up the embankment and tried to cross the third rail (600-900V DC). It seems that as the river went under the brick arch with vertical walls each side of the water with no bank the otter would not swim through. Similarly on the heath silver studded blue would not migrate across a 16ft road and it was because both sides were tree-lined, once gaps were created both sides they few across. Roads are one of the worst things for isolating meta populations and very little green bridging is done in this country.

yes very sad to hear

For migration of inverts and herps I would say a muddy grip bridged by the decking was best.

A bit like those electric scooters then, looks like the law will change in some way.

Yes it cuts on the front face as it passes the top cutter but the locus of the piece of grit that cuts the angle is a straight line, , so the top cutter has a flat angle. The side cutter angle and gullet are determined by the depth of cut, angle to the tooth and radius of the wheel.

I can see the reason for dressing the stone for getting the gullet right but the top cutter is ground with the flat bit of the disc. BTW while not a great user of a grinder as I sharpen my chains on the bar for speed my chief gripe with people who use them grind too much, too heavily and burn the chain.

I doubt it. True a file gives a hollow shape to the top cutter but its not very significant so the grinding disc just averages out the angle where the file would cause a slight curve in the top plate. The main thing that does the work is the sharp corner (or tip with a full chisel. Wood is slightly abrasive so too shallow an edge dulls quickly and being thin is more susceptible to damage which is why the angle of the disc sharpener to the top plate is fixed and only the angle to the tooth is variable. Out of the box all files are ground not filed. I'm dyspraxic but find filing no problem, if I did I'd be happy to grind them.

I like these as you sharpen with a chainsaw file, whereas the Maxicut needs a mill saw file and these work out more expensive, especially as 7/32 round files are normal bits of kit in this game.

A sharp chipper cuts it and a less sharp one breaks it up, just watch out for blockages, one piece at a time until you trust the chipper.

Which is why one should never walk past the chute of a working chipper. I've seen the aftermath and the pieces of disc picked out of the back of the truck.

It is an offence under the highways act section 184 to drive over a footpath with no dropped kerb, The offence is enforced by the HA and the fine is 20 quid as long as there is no damage, They can apply for a licence for a dropped kerb and this does not require planning permission, probably costs less than £1500 to do the work. You would have had a right to put a gate from your property onto a public footpath but a lot of alleyways are not public rights of way,

I had a feeling it was there, not me guv honest

Generally the highway extends over the verge so if their land is adjacent to the verge they can do it, driving over a kerb or a sidewalk is unlawful subject to byelaws but it is likely to be an offence against the highway authority rather than anything else

Why shouldn't they access the land from a public highway? Strange thing about a lot of the open spaces in that area (streatham and mitcham commons for instance) do not have statutory protection, they were not registered as common land in 1965

Yes it does look like a fatigue crack, yes I can see there was corrosion under the bolt (machine screw) head both could be from a bit of crap under the head or flexing of an under tightened bolt. You said they came out easily. So you were re using a bolt that had some old damage.

Give over you don't know what treatment the machine or bolt had before you.

It's a growatt system, Site visit next Friday so I'll know a bit more then. I didn't try those because the extra cost did not seem worthwhile and with the battery I can judge whether to use it for the immersion or not, leaving the gas boiler to do its own thing or skip a DHW cycle, the immersion is okay for a shower but too short to heat a decent bath full. There is a loss of about 20% in the conversions though. The first inverter set up I saw in 1974 was a Victron, charged by a lister startomatic. I've not heard of them, the growatt are lipo. I will never recoup the cost of the battery in my lifetime as the best it can save me is £200/annum at current prices but what the hell.

@Gareth Phoenix I think the bolt that broke was an original one, he might have bought some since to replace them. You didn't answer why the anvil replacement is a return to dealer job?

Sorry I don't know, I have used the old 150DHB but never been involved with maintenance, @aspenarb does his own so he may know. PS I have just looked back and see yours is a mini chipper with gravity feed so Bob probably has not dealt with one either.

What normally happens is at the end of a job there is a pile of rakings up to dispose of, sometimes on the nice pea shingle drive at the front of the house where the job was. It should be kept separate and on the truck but... Dirty wood will do less damage than pea shingle but still blunt is blunt. A sharp chipper with the anvil set correctly and not worn will deal with hydrangea, raspberries, hops, bramble etc, but have a sacrificial pusher stick available.

How far back? I drove a FV432 the other day and that seemed quite manageable. The owner of an estate I worked on, a non driver, was conscripted into a tank regiment in 1940. He was the least mechanically minded person, a law graduate never called to the bar. He obviously had not understood how the matilda drove as on his first outing he went down a steep hill and wanted to turn left, so he declutched the left track, presumably didn't apply the brake and was more than surprised when the left track sped up under gravity and the whole plot rolled over. He never said if anyone was killed but he ended up in the infantry at Tobruk and the rest of the war in various prison camps.

The radiotir was of it's time, the main feature was the way if managed with just one radio signal, with modern comms there is no need to be stuck with just one function and indeed the motor could be auto started and throttle modulated to control speed. The double capstan does offer more utility that a normal drum winch. I still like 2t engines for this sort of application in case they get flipped over. At work today while I was stripping several lawsons cypress and our glamorous assistant was dragging and feeding the chipper I was mulling this thread over and thinking about that reciprocating strap with the logs travelling down on it. Back at my last job I had to dispose of a wire cored flip line by DMS that failed a loler inspection, I have used the clutch to pull 13mm steel pins out of the ground for which it excelled. I reckon if the roped was always taught from the bungee the DMS would act as a one way clutch on that system.

Chap I worked with had one in Margam and said were fast for a crawler. I never managed to get a drive in one.

No that's well blunt and power mate rims go on a long time after you'd want to change them 🙂