openspaceman

No it doesn't particularly but the dark triangular area is the included bark, the slightly greyer exposed wood shows the initial split occurred some time before the fresh wood where the final failure occurred.

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A backfire is normally from a premature detonation, before the piston has reach the top of the compression stroke and the piston is driven down in reverse. If you have an unfired mixture detonating in a hot exhaust the it could be an over rich mixture.

It's 30 years since I ran a woodmizer and I never needed to change anything but I did post your request to the original owner from back then and he came back with this: "The tracking adjustment is on the front side of the sawhead, in front of the idle-side blade wheel! Loosen the locknut and adjust a little at a time until the blade is tracking in the correct position! A small adjustment can shift the blade tracking a lot! but the blade must be tensioned correctly and the wheels must have the correct woodmizer belts on them which are rounded rather than flat."

@Alycidon will be able to quote chapter and verse on this and probably say the new installation will need to be either passed by a Building Control Officer or fitted by a HETAS certified stove installer ( who will almost certainlynot re use the liner). OTOH if you are competent to say it's safe and its a 904 liner for solid fuel and it is properly sealed to the register plate... Either way you need a CO alarm.

When a plant is actively growing the supply of water and nutrients is in balance, the roots supply water to the foliages and the leaves send energy to the rots, when you dig it up a lot of the smaller root hairs are damaged, the leave cannot get enough sap and wither. Yo can transplant stuff if you keep a good firm rootball of soil so as not to damage roots. When dormant the tree has withdrawn reserves from the leaves and is not transpiring much water, the sap has also become more concentrated and the roots are hardly working but they will grow again as soon as the soil temperature goes up, often before the buds burst, so they are established to some extent before they need to supply the bursting buds.

Now is fine for soils with a bit of sand as roots will develop all the time soil temperature remains above 5C, heavy clay soils can water log roots before they get established so March can be better. Unless you have some special willows you generally do not need rooted whips; dib a hole 6" into the ground, put a 12" cut branch in and gently backfill with dry sand.

Beat me to it, good answer, let's move on.

Please let it drop, I have had good dealings with @adw from here, I also share a bit of common history with him from 1974 when I used to deal with the firm he worked for, though I did not deal with him then but his boss. At the time the firm was the importer for Husqvarna (and my Holder tractors). Adw doesn't engage in chit chat he just gives good advice, especially when prompted and his knowledge is an asset here

Yes but it needs splitting fast as whole logs can rot inside the bark it is so perishable. Lovely lively flame.

I cannot really help but most alternators have two poles on the rotor and 3 pairs of stator coils, if the W terminal is on one stator coil I would expect only two pulses per rev. I have one on my bench but it's not working yet otherwise I'd see if it gave a pulse when spun by hand. The reason for knowing the diameter of the alternator and crankshaft pulleys is to know how much faster the alternator revs than the engine.

Yes, getting it dry quickly means there is less loss of dry matter (=heat energy) by respiration of bugs living off it. Smaller logs have more surface area exposed to drying air and less distance for water to migrate. Keeping the rain off prevents re wetting and hence keeps mould and boring insects out. I am having to re split [1] my cedar logs , felled 22nd June, and they are 15% mc wwb in the middle, less on the outside having been under a polycarbonate roofed open shed. [1] The morso s11 smokes black, like a car with its choke on, if I put a 5" plus cross section log on as they are so dry that they evolve more woodgas than the secondary and clean burn air holes can supply if put in whole for a few minutes. It's an unexpected pain as being light they also burn fast, meaning frequent loading is needed. Having said that the house is too warm to have kept it fired since I lit it at 17:00, ground floor rooms at 21C and it's still 10C outside.

I'll cross cut with a pushing chain where it needs it too. I was pulled up on my assessment 30 years ago now, for running up a whorl on the far side with a pushing chain, flipping the saw onto its side with my thumb on the trigger for the top branch and then bringing it down with a pulling chain for the branch on my side. That last bit meant the saw was coming toward me. The way I sned a conifer means that this method alternates with the approved method every other whorl.

I wonder if ppr= pulse per revolution?

Yes, I'm definitely under the weather today; I remember the engines in one of the double decker buses being 6 cylinder Gardners, an ozzy chap just up the road from here would buy them, and always the same type, normally ex Manchester ones, convert the top to sleeping quarters and then hire them out for trips to Turkey and beyond, Dave Marsh Top Deck Travel.

I thought they used Gardiner engines like went in the buses and that is on the grill. Last one I saw at work was in about 1983 and it was stuck in the wood with a diff case broken by the internals trying to get out. The replacement was a Northrop and I hoped they had forgot about the unipower so I could "find" it and haul it out for repair. It disappeared over a weekend and no more was heard of it. I think it was about the only dedicated timber extraction and haulage vehicle (matadors being conversions from military)

Nope, Aviva would opt for a default rather than guaranteed income, I've been paid by DWP for 5 years now without having to fill in forms of any sort. Cut my driving licence in half and sent it off too.

Stop it @Stubby I'm supposed to be filling out the form for my pension which starts in December and if I make similar mistakes in that...

Depends on who cuts out the branches and stacks the cord, If you cut the middle of the bend you get 70% stacking, cut either side of the bend and it drops to 50%

Actually 1 litre of beech or oak do weigh about 1 kg

I will edit that 😀

Yes but it's the same as 1 litre of water weighs 1kg but I did make a mistake in my off the cuff reply from having an addled brain, I blame the pneumonia vaccine ;-). It was just as well @gdh queried me.

It depends on the bits of wood to some extent and I made a mistake as I assume fresh wood instead of 20%mc wwb We can say wood is carbon, hydrogen and oxygen plus the hydrogen and oxygen in the 20% moisture. The ratios are approximately 5 carbon, 7 hydrogen and 6 oxygen. that give a molar weight of 5*12+7*1+6*16=163 when that burns it produces 3.5 H20=3.5*(2+16)=63 or 38% of teh dry wood. So with wood at 20%mc wwb thats 0.8kg dry wood and 0.2kg water burning to give 0.51 litres of water. Fresh wood at 50%mc wwb produces 0.7 litres which is 140% of the weight of dry wood burned.

It's because the steam condenses and settles in the exhaust before it gets hot enough to pass out as a gas, wood at 20% moisture produces about 1.5litres for every kilo burned

You need to ease it just over compression, let the recoil retract and then pull it. I have a jonsered 920 that I can't seem to get rid of and it is the same. It would never have been a problem to me twenty years ago.