Stubby
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Everything posted by Stubby
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Tried to help with sharpening, I thought .
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I had a motor bike once and it was maked with these little micro dot things , DATA TAG it was called . you can't see them but if your kit gets nicked and the police manage to recover it they put a scanner over it and it comes up with all your details . More expensive than engraving but has sticker to say its data tagged and so might put them off as they would have to replace every part of the saw to be sure there was no micro dots left and that would be pointless . Still got to recover your kit first though .
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If you can't do it freehand then get a file plate . This keeps the file the correct height above the the top of the cutter , 1/5th dia of file I seem to remember, and that is assuming you are using the correct dia file ( 4mm or 5/32 in old money ) Oh and keep the file level (paralelle to the ground) if its a Stihl chain , if its an Oregon then I think its down 10 dgrees ish . The angle back toward the saw will be on the plate ( 30 degrees I think ) I agree with the coments from the other guys though !
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Update on 560 problems . My dealer has now got the software from Husqvarna and has pluged my saw in . He has clicked the "reset" tab and it says there is nothing wrong with it . However Husqvarna say there is an updated carb available and are sending one today. Sooo hopefuly that will sort it . Fingers crossed .
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Husqvarna ground saws Stihl climbing saw .
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Hi Steve. I think it just a limiter stop . Just so that the av does not wang arround too much . Its the same on mine anyway . Best regards Andy .
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Have you tried the saw on a flat suface and hold it down firm then let the brake off ?( whithout moving the body of the saw ) What I am thinking is it might be the action of letting the brake of rather than the brake its self . If you flick it off with your wrist , it tipps the saw forward and down with a jirk . Maybe thete is somethig loose/wrong in the carb that gets diturbed when you do this . Possibly !
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Hi. Hope you are well . Ask spud (spudulike) He will know . He knows everything !
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Solid old saw . Depends on price but it won't let you down if its up together.
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And BEE-Bow there it is ! Well done bud, well done
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Will do John .
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Most of our work is tree surgery also . My mate is " MJO forestry "( Mark Oden) for the estates around here . West Dean , Goodwood, and others . He has got us in just to do this job as we have the chipper. Once we have done the hazel he will go in with a harvester and thin the bigger stuff . Hope your saw is one of the gooduns with the fix . Laters bud .
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Hi Matty. Had mine about 6-8weeks on a 15" bar no probs .It was when I used an 18" bar and burried it in some big ash that it shut down . Maybe it takes a few tankfulls before whatever happens, happens , if you see what I mean. Anyways coppicing hazel and chipping it back over the stumps (its what they want ) next week so 346 time (spud tuned ! ) .
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What petrol strimmers are you using, & any pros/cons?
Stubby replied to Big G's topic in Landscaping
Yep . Thats the one I have . could not remember the number . Stonking brushcutter . -
Hi Matty F . Have you made it work hard ? I made mine cut the full width on an 18" bar in some big ash and thats when it let me down . I still think it is the best 60cc saw I have ever used . I just want it back working as it should , and , as other peoples seem to be working !
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I can't tell but a deale my be able to from the seriel numbers. The only other way is to run it in and gradually build up the work load . If its ok its ok, if not it will start to give problems when asked to work hard. When I say hard I don't mean abuse . Just what you would expect a 262 or a 357 to cope with . If it plays up take it strait back . When you have a goodun they are exceptional so worth trying me thinks .
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Sorry . for soud read spud !
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Soud is your man . Ask him . He will list all the possibilities and relavent fixes.
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I have herd this also . Perhaps it won't take so long then !
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The arctic is vast and would certainly take some filling be it the south or north pole . Or did you mean an artic ?
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Mine was fine for a few weeks infact it is the best 60cc saw I have used , but alas mine is playing up now . Hard to restart when hot and cuts out under heavy load . Its back at my dealers right now . You may , like me , have one of the first batch that had these problems . As I understand it they are being replaced . I should take it back as soon as . Good luck .
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What petrol strimmers are you using, & any pros/cons?
Stubby replied to Big G's topic in Landscaping
I know what you ment ! Anyways I use a Husqvarna 45cc brush cutter . It will take a bramble blade no worries . Mostly I use it with an oregon head which will take up to 4mm dia line . This is the real tough stuff . You cut the line to about a foot long ( 2 lengths) and insert it through the head and pull back slightly to lock . When it is worn away (usually when it revs to much ) just grab the tail that you let poke through and pull it strat out in the same direction you pushed it in , then reload . This husqvarna is the best IMO . There is an even bigger 55cc one but that is a bit more wieght . -
Husqvarna 560XP but be sure it is a recent one and not one of the first batch . The first batch cut out when under load and were hard to start when warm . The latest all seem to be sorted. A sorted one is the best 60cc saw on the planet >
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I sem to remember there is also a hole where the other end of the rubber pipe went into the crank case ? I remembere screwing something in crimping it closed .
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As ther head has snapped off it wont be under tension so may be easyer than you think . Try loads of WD40 on it first . Then If you can center a drill on it being carefull to keep it on center drill the screw with a drill about half it dia. Then you will be able to use an "easy out " or screw extractor . You will need a "T" type tap wrench to hold the easy out . Have done this myself before .
