MATTMOSS

The 260 is sorted, it the was the impulse pipe which was causing the leak. I couldnt see a split in it but it would leak when i moved it with a screw driver a certain way. It had gone hard so changed that and the inlet boot as they had seen better days. Then it held pressure and vac fine, put it back together but it still wouldnt rev properly at top end so i swapped the carb for a known good one and it ran perfect. Instead of giving up on the carb i stripped it down again and put it in my special ultra sonic cleaner for while (Aluminium mess tin full of mild degreaser boiling on the wood burner), rinsed off, blasted with carb cleaner, reassembled. Saw runs sweet, house smells nice, wife hates me, everyone's a winner. Next project km90r. This hobby is keeping me very busy. Soon be divorced.

Stubby dont you mean the slope on the top of the two side fire bricks goes from the the lowest point at the back to the highest point at the front- its what the top fire brick lies on. exactly opposite of the primary baffle?

I would have said yes take it. what an arse! The top/above fire brick sits towards the back of the fire, slanting up to the front and the mesh sits with the arms resting on the back fire brick and slants down towards the front. but it should still draw to some degree even if they are a bit out of place. if its not too mush of an arse i would take the fire out, take all the bricks out, tip it upside down and make sure there is none of the shot left in the air passages, give it a good clean out with a little wire brush and vac and start again so you know the fire itself is not the issue. (not everyone is as anal as me) do a google search on the problems some people have had with this shot, it sounds similar to the problem your are having. you chimney and draw can also be a pita, but not so much with a liner IME. as someone else has advised it may help to do a smoke test and see what the draw is like with the vent open and shut. i would come and give you a lift if you werent so far away. hope you get it sorted.

that just seems like far too much messing about for my liking. probably why i have cronic tennis elbow.

Two things definatley worth checking is that the air flow lever has been connected corectly at the rear and underneath the fire and also that all the loose shot blasting beads have been removed from the guts of the stove. I know its not easy to lump these things about but i found a fair bit of the shot in the internals of my burley when i installed it. And i have read reviews where others have have an issue with this shot blocking air flow. Im very pleased with mine. Good luck.

I know people who have worked on cad all their lives and still cant use it to half its potential.

My experience is grease usually 'migrates'everywhere you dont want it to be.

It means hes a txxx

[ame] [/ame] Simple but effective.

The oil absorbent granules are really good. Just cover the affected area in a good covering and leave as long as possible as long as its not raining/wet. They suck oil out of concrete suprisingly well and are less labour intensive opposed to scrubbing and washing. Id be careful using strong detergents and high pressure hoses as they could easily damage the surface of the tar.

yes your correct i missed a 't' You cant budgie out that easy youve got to stay up all night and find out what it is.

Heres one you might not have seen very often

Quercus denata.

No secret mate, im just awfully ocd (or sad) and its like i cant stop until i work out what it is. I have lots of books and spend hours trailling the internet. The key to good identification skills is to concentrate on distinct features of the sample and link those to plant families/genus. I like the challenge trying to beat you guys to the answer. Its good for learning your trees! It can get very frustrating tho. Especially when its from the other side of the world.

Jees thanks kev You are seriously getting in the way of my studying. It doesnt take much to distract me. Where are you getting these from? Is it another sub tropical? Do you know what the samples are or are you trying to find out yourself? This could be hard, no bark, no form, nothing just the leaf? Did it have a stalk? Iceberg lettuce? My first guess would be a magnolia. Common name The cucumber tree, cant remember the species.

Elaeocarpaceae. Definatley the most difficult ive looked up yet. Its far overtaken the obscure type of Morus i found for robarb. Where is he these days? He was quite good at idents.

We will know its from Chile. Its a Crinodendron patagua Thank god for that. I need sleep.

Its defo from the sapindaceae family. Its likey to be cupania genus. Something like Cupania rufescens Or Cupaniopsis anacardioides

Yes doing that would certainly find your pressure leak but not your vacuum leak. Because its and old saw im going to replace the impulse line and the inlet boot anyway so ill do that and vac test again, so that hopefully eliminates them. Then i can find a way to block the de comp button to iliminate that, then im just down to the seals. Not the end of the world if replace it all, it keeps me out of trouble and then the saw should be good. Still like to know how to find the place the vacuum leak is tho....if it can be found accurately.

Im trying to sort out a 2004 ms 260. At first wouldnt run or or idle at all so i stripped, cleaned and rebuilt carb. Changed fuel filter, tested pipe and tank vent. Now idles ok but wont rev high it just coughs and splutters and burbles from mid to high revs almost like an electronic limiter noise. Pressuming it isnt the carb i have done a pressure test which is fine but when i did a vac test i have found its got a quite fast vacuum leak. Its easy to spot a leak under pressure but a bit more difficult to pin pont a vac leak im thinking possibly a crank seal but which one? or maybe even the decomp button but how would i know for sure? Any suggestions from you lot while i think about it.

I had already replaced the boot with a genuine one and now ive replaced the flange the saw runs great. I think it was the plastic threads were too worn not allowing the carb to be pulled up enough to make a good seal. Thanks for suggestions fellas.

I cant help with the sizing but you wont regret buying a pair, they are much more hard wearing and comfortable. Best ive had anyway.

It isnt the best way putting a case together comparing the age to things like that i admit, it devalues the argument imo, sticking to the arboricultural facts about the tree would be more suitable. More regard should be given to trees of this status. To remove such trees to make way for development is bad enough but to open up views alone is even worse. Some people just dont appreciate trees i guess.

If the tpo is being lifted for the reason you give then it is disgusting. I will sign the petition.

Is dry needling accupuncture? How much does it cost per session?