billpierce

so yes i know not a chainsaw but thought someone might be able to point me in the right direction. bought a used fs55r strimmer, 2007 model. tried it worked good, cn anyone guess the rest?.......got home worked good for 30 mins, put it down came back 2 hours later the thin wouldn;t start. the air filter was soaked with fuel, so cleaned that and the housing but, it fired but wouldn't go. spark plug wasn't wet, pissed around a good bit occainsonal getting it to go (starting with throttle on.) and it sounded like a heavy mix. checked carb settings it was on 2 3/4 H and 1 1/3 L (factory is 3/4 h and 1 L.) so put them to that then left it alone. started mint this morning hurray! idled well etc. then 2 hours later was up to same again, except this time it would run better with throttle on but wouldn't idle at all. it was still a nob to start my arm is tired now. the fella will give me my money back so no biggy, but would also quite like to fix it. where to start then fellas? felt like the carb bore was getting pretty full of petrol. thanks in advance

ok, so what shoudl that check valve look like? there is a wee bit of blue something around the edges of it. should it be sealed from the top i.e in photo 5. i can't see how anything is supposed to flow from where this diaphram is down threw it. i'll just leave it alone for now, but was wondering if it might have something to do with this L circuit leak?

agree with you thats definately cool. there are a good few old LJ's and 40 series Land Cruisers knocking about (not so many in UK but still plenty.) and yes there not 1940's, but your know there aren't loads of 1940's vehicles around really are there? Not all jap 4x4's are ponsy either my ride is a 1988 MK2 Hilux bit like that one off Top Gear. Works hard for me everyday, costs maybe £400 a year on parts and labour and has done 310,000 miles. whack for towing big loads ( slow/illegal.). chassis is good. good to hear some reliale land rover stories - a few folk i know seem to have to fix theirs all the time - which has put me off them. might reconsider when (if) this one eventually gives up on me

i managed to knee my self in the face during a pretty exciting 5 a side game. felt pretty special for that one!

Rats are unbelievable eh? guess they were hungry! I had them eat through 3 x 20L tubs of biodiesel which was pretty messy! now i keep it all in steel bins. you do see them going for spares/repair fairly often. might be the same as 180 and 170's too?

in the 5th photo down you can see the welch plug what i super glued up. directly above that is a brass thing which seems to sit at a slight angle? what is it? no obvious holes in it (i.e not a jet.) i noticed there was a small amount of crap around where it seals onto the carb block? should i seal that up in same way i did the other welch plug or does it do something that shouldn't be sealed?

i got a 12'' 1/4 pitch stihl bar off some one cheap and stuck in on an MS170 (the power!) and i coudn't believe how much nippier it made it. unless there is a major downside i don;t know about yet i'll prob work all my smaller says over to 1/4 pitch as you seem to get much faster cutting.

the first thing that came to mind also....get all yer seasonal berries in over coming months and have a belter of a new year.....

whats up with them?

thanks have emailed them

yeah if i wait 7-15 days its £17! or £107 from dealer! on an ms170 i thought it was worth a pop and thought it would be nice to be able to adjust it myself. i haven't used it much since putting the new carb on though.....you used them a fair bit with no probs eh?

don't know about dolmar TLC but on both a ms 181 and husky 240 they have seemed pants to me (fella whos woods i work in has one and it broke the first time we took the saw out - from new. the stihl equivilent felt hard to get to the sort of tension i'm used to. this was 2/3 yr back so they may have sorted it. and were also entry level saws - everythings pretty whack on them really!

where for dolmar then? can't seem to see many people flogging them in uk?

right well i probably count as not knowing what i'm doing. so do i just replace with same brand parts or os there a more cunning cheaper way? chinese knock offs of chinese parts dont sound too hot

its weeping oil at a good rate from where the body seals under the exhaust and it has a decent fuel leak too. so its been put away as both those things occured on the same day and i'd had enough of it then. but seeing yours has made me think. any good ideas for fixing that leak without splitting the case? or is that the only way?

mine is all orange. made in west germany. the brake bands hard to find? the actual brake handle is arleady a bit cracked and zip tied (still totally solid and safe mind you). i notice on the dolmar site you can still get 115's but not a makita equiv. loosers. can you get them in uk?

let us know what you think. yep the tooless tensions i have seen on husky and stihl are def worth a skip i would say. unless you like breaking plastic and having a slack chain. where/how do you get your dolmar kit and whats it like for spares?

don't have a magnifying glass. but tried it with strong light and couldn't see the slightest of holes. it was a tiny but wet on the top when it came off. so, Carb kit £9-£25 and/or H/L screws £5 each or post it to Local still place for "sonic rinse" and they will sort it/tell its knackered or just £107 on a newy? or if anyone else wants to fix it/test it/sell me a carb (walbro HD34A)?

anyone had any fun with either a dolmar PS-3410 or makita DCS3410. its their version of a back handle ms200 i guess. would be interested to know if anyones used one for carving. i currently carve with ms 170/180's which are nice and light and i think the raw wining power of the 30cc engine actually increases bar life, but it would also be nice to have a saw i can rely on.(not that the ms170's actually let me down, just i feel they probably will at some critical point.) or any other suggestions of pro carving saws? echos?

yeah chain saws have a special way of making yer mouth do that haven't they? makes me more determined to sort my 394 out rather than selling it for spares.

sorry for all these photos, wasn't quite sure what would be helpful to see....not really that sorry actually. more just grateful if your looking....

lovely thanks.

p.s i have looked on the net and an't find any info!

nieghbour gave me his dolmar 112. new starter cord in and its cutting like a champ! almost well enough to fully convert me to only using old dolmars. if only my biceps were up to it. anyway just wondering if anyone knows roughly (or exacty) what the max rpm is for them? thanks

Also from what i understand of what was said, the rpm limiter should be doing its wobbly thing to my tach around 13.5k? the tach reads up to about 9200 then reads 1700, this is obviously wierd and it occaisonally goes all over the shop but def settles on 1700 ish. could that be some sort of fault or are these limiters pretty mental? with it tuned just over the 9200 mark it seems to cut ok, but it does cut out after medium- long cuts , which i can't seem to get rid of what with have little or no L adjust. also the idle is 2000-2400 rpm which doesn;t help - again i seem to have no control over this. sorry for repetition!