muttley9050

I'm not seeing a world of difference in the appearance of photos. Would be nice to see these things. The saw you mention is only 70 odd mm cut, I need 100 plus.

Watched a couple of the axminster sell on ebay for crazy money and id have to collect. Can buy a new one interest free over two years, delivered in 48 hours. I have plenty of space for the said saw. Just can't leave it in the middle of workshop when not in use. I have a big 3 phase spindle moulder which I can't move but everything else except the lathe is on a trolley and stored against the wall. Never used a charnwood and wondered what people's opinions of them are. I would consider myself a light trade user so get hammered for a couple of days then not used for a month. I'm expecting crap plastic handles that will break but happy to make necessary up grades my self.

Hi all. Any opinions on this table saw? I'm in need of a new one and the second hand market is crazy. There is also very little availability in the new market right now. Alot is stuff on back order. Up for suggestions of something better in a similar price point and capacity. As much as I would love a big old cast machine unfortunately it will have to be on trolley base as space is limited. Onions welcomed. Cheers Charnwood W670 12" Sliding Table Panel Saw from Westcountry Machinery 4 Wood WWW.MACHINERY4WOOD.CO.UK Charnwood W670 12

They are a well made solid piece of kit but a little heavy. I bought it years ago with 3 051s. was my first mill. Enjoyed using it and learning. These days if a tree needs a mill that long it gets the lucas slabber on it so it's redundant. Not been used in 10 years I reckon. Keeping my 2ft alaskan though. Could be a nice cheap way for someone with the rest of the kit to mill a bigish tree. I can't find any sort of date on mill or instruction manual.

Bar overall is 145cm. 404

404 cuts 950mm. Not sure of the overall length. Will measure tomorrow.

Decided to sell one of my saw Mills. Stihl lsg 950 and remembered I had the original instruction manual so dug it out and had a read. Thought I would post the instructions here for a laugh. Stihl lsg 950 Saw Mill Chainsaw alaskan WWW.EBAY.CO.UK

Is this one for sale?

My advice would be. Get your self a framing square to go with your speed square. Decent chisels. A slick if you can afford it. Use the framing square to set the size of the tenons/mortices for easy refrence.Don't assume the wood you are using is square or straight or the same size as the last piece.Choose the timber for each piece by looking at the grain. Cut your mortices a hair bigger than your tenons. Try to get the hole thing done as quickly as you can when you start. If it takes you a while test fit all your joints again before raising. Have fun Fwiw I use 3/4 pegs on 8"framing.

From a builders perspective. If the worst subsidence is shown in the pic and there has been no movement in 6 months then I would advise. Dig a soakaway in the garden to take the rainwater instead of it just dispersing into the ground. Cluck out the damaged muck and repoint. Sit under neath the shade of the tree and have a beer and admire your work. In my opinion the rainwater is far more likely to cause the minimal subsidence shown than the tree

Very posh. I usually just mark the center and use a tape. Where did you get it?

Yeah a 3mm offset on the peg holes

Lovely. Is it for you or a customer?

Where are you?

Ive tried 2 types of makita battery copies and they were both initially great but both gave up totally and suddenly after about 14 months so stocked up on genuine

Pics

Air is much cheaper to fit not more expensive in electricity. But like an aircon unit in reverse. I would avoid. Here's a couple of pics of our System

We run a100kw atmos with a 5000 litre store. It certainly is a lot of work. Ours gets loaded about 3 times a day in winter, but as its a shared house I only have to do it once a fortnite. Gets lit maybe once every 4 days in summer or not at all when it's hot as we have solar hot water too. My opinions on the atmos are that it's a bit smokey when loading etc. Generally easy to service but could be improved. Good customer service for spares, although I never deal with them as one of the guys I live with speaks czech. My sister has an eco Angus. 2000litre and 30kw I think and I think that is a better quality boiler although both have their benefits. Another friend has a farm2000 which is great as you can stick loads of stuff in there. Whole pallets etc but it's way bigger than you need. Don't underestimate how much work it is. It's alot of logs and alot of filling. Not great if you are not always at home although you could easily set yours up to only need lightning every 3 days for 2 or 3 loads if your store is big enough. If I lived on my own I don't think id go down that route. Especially in a full renovation.. My choice would be, loads of insulation. And under floor heating for back ground warmth with a decent wood burner or two. Under floor could be run from a gasification boiler if your set on it but gshp easier and similar set up costs although gshp will be more expensive, it will be cheaper to run if you value the firewood you burn at commercial rates.. This is way less work and much easier amount of timber to manage. Consider timber frame, straw bale infill, and timber clad, or even better load bearing straw bale for your extension. Cheap fast and great insulation and nice and eco in a woddland setting.

I could mill it as it is if I couldn't move it. My preference would be to pull the high end 2/3 of the way down so I'd still be Milling down hill but not down hill quite so much.

Seems generous

Id mill that in a day with the lucas if the root and crown were gone and the stick was snedded. £500. I would value the seasoned boards at £1500 to 3k. Depending on quality. Assuming that is that the sick is good.

It would also be easy to make a mini mill run on plunge saw tracks

I will add this is a good machine but cut rate is way slower that a standard chainsaw in a mini mill. I use this a lot for curves but if I have Slabs to resaw i tend to set up the lucas to do it. If I had a mini mill if probably use that for long straight cuts. If you don't have a big mill like me then the choice is between this and a mini mill. If you have an old circular then this is a cheap, Quite accurate way of dimensioning big Slabs. But if you have a small chainsaw then you could have this and a couple of Rails for the same money. G555B Granberg Vertical Mini Edging Mill [Chainsaw Not Included] WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK G555B Granberg Vertical Mini Edging Mill [Chainsaw Not Included] This would out class curcular saw mod on everything but curve cuts

Just make a plate yourself to convert it. If your not sure how there's plenty of how toos on the net.

What's with the drainage report?