muttley9050
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Everything posted by muttley9050
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We try to give all our logs 18 months to season. 12 as minimum. In my opinion 6 months of not enough for most species.
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That would work. If I was you I would be looking at loose stacks outside to seaso, essentially lying where you split it, then bring it in to the shed when ready to burn. If you have no way of Mechanically moving it though, your pallet idea would be cheap and stop the need for moving. Or if you can take the side and end off the lean to and replace with a pallet wall down side. Then it would have plenty of air flow in the shed If I had 5 burners I wanted to keep stoked all the time in winter I would want 4 times that amount of wood. If you just burn for romance then you may have enough.
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I've had this discussion before and got nowhere. I don't understand how it can be better. It can't cut faster on big logs because the speed is set by how fast you can eject the sawdust. The finish I get with my slabber is great ah can't see that being improved.The only advantage i see is that if I had one I could have both saws on the rails at the same time so I could swab between slabs and dimensional much quicker at a whim. How do you find making a 10" vertical cut through something like slightly knotty oak.? Also where are you based?
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I preffered it when I thought the mole grips were integral to the design. No idea on the sound. I just turned it down. That worked fine. -
Maximum possible reduction of large Oak
muttley9050 replied to George01's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
It's a beautiful tree but you sir are a comic genius. Any chance of the address so I can apply for a tpo before it's pointed? -
Mine is 1.5 not 1.2. All fits on the back of the pick up.I assume you have the 2 part rails if it fits in the van?
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Just what I need. Can you make me one.
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For a small splitter that certainly moves fast. Plus I do love a machine that utilises a good pair of mole grips. Im assuming slightly more bending is involved when the crate is empty.
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That would be a fantastic beast. Where could I find it?
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If Milling with the lucas, slabber or circular blade, if you can mill on a slope you can prerry much leave the mill to work it self. If im cutting dimensionsal timber i can slide the last beam off and stack it while the mill is making the first cut of the next beam.
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What Milling licences do you have?
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Sorry forgot to quote you in my reply above
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Your talking about different things. You said originally that you were going to use your 8ft level to set up references to make your first cut. I said If you do that you will have to level the center of the log. This means that you would have to jack one end of the log up until the pith is running level. I.e. In line with sea level. This is hard work and difficult to do accurately. Level has nothing to do with lining your cut up with the pith. This should always be done. As said I prefer if the log isn't level so I'm Milling down hill but that doesn't mean I don't line up with the center as best as possible.
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Sounds like you need a lucas mill.
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I don't really see the point of levelling the log. You only go off grain if your first cut is out. I don't very often mill with an alaskan these days. My lucas goes up to 6m so only use an Alaskan if I need a beam longer than 6m or tree acsess is bad, but avoid bad acsess trees unless the money is worth it. Lucas or alaskan I would rather be Milling down hill than level. The method you describe is much the same as the method in will matloffs chainsaw Milling book.
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Measure the longest ladder you have.Get some 4x2 4x1 etc cut just over the width of the ladder.Fix a piece of wood at the narrow end of the log the correct distance from the center and a thinner one at the root end the same distance from the center. String a line between the two nice and tight. Fix wood at intervals shorter than the ladder in line with the line. Put ladder on top of wood and slide along as necessary. You could do it with a level but you would have to level the tree so the center was level first which isn't easy.
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Yeah mine is 30hp. So if the carriage is shorter what's your max log diameter?
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I've had the model 8 for about 8 years or so. Awesome machine. Especially when coupled with the slabber. Always wondered what the difference is. I assumed its just the gearing, but that doesn't explain the price difference. You know the hp of your engine?
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There is no real worth in the tree until its milled and Milling is hard work and a gamble. Can't see any one knocking any money off the job for the potential income from Milling. A but that size could potentially earn you 2k in milled timber but the work, time, space, investment etc etc make it worth as i said before beer to £150 erring on the side of beer.
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Ok. So a 5 van site is allowed. But the 5 acre site would require planning to run for more than 56 days.
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Yeah that's what I thought the law was. Didn't know about the 56 day extension though.
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But you would need planning permission for a permanent site. You can't just turn any field into a permanent year round camp site can you?
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What model did you go for?
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You get 28 days a year with no planning permission. Could be a good earner if you can get some toilets and showers.
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I Agree with the rest of the advice. Expensive removal. The trunk looks like its worth Milling if the acsess is good. The only bit worth Milling is the bit on the path side of the fence. Trunk could be worth £150 max(if closer to road) more likely id offer you some beer for it though. If you want Slabs you can pay me £500 to come mill it for you after the tree surgeon has cleared it up.
