muttley9050
-
Posts
2,688 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by muttley9050
-
Andys advice is good. The small log mill is not the best and I won't use one as the bar is only fixed at one end it allows toi much movement. I think it was invented for guys with small saws who wanted to play at Milling. Get a 2ft alaskan and a30" bar for the 661. Usually if I'm Milling with a chain im doing it with my lucas or a 2ft Alaskan. Either way i don't sharpen on site unless totally necessary. Take enough chains with you for the work you need to do. I would say your problem is definately chain related. Buy a new chain and test the set up again and see how it goes. With a poor set up like that chain maintenance will be even more crucial. -
Do it. Might take 3 times as long but Also got to be worth a load more money if it works. Maybe not worth busting the machine over though
-
Timber framing is different to logs like that. In a frame joints are designed to tighten as the wood dries. Remedial work is often needed as the frame dries, to fix gaps created by movement, if the frame is part of a sealed wall. Oak is also far more prone to drying defects than softwoods. A smallish knot in oak can cause massive distortion where in cedar or pine etc you could have 5 times as many knots and not notice any movement. I think if you made green cabin logs like that from oak you would have all sorts of gaps and twists after it had dried. Especially if the cabin was exposed to full sun or heated on the inside too early on.
-
Nice looking tool Andy. I've looked at these before but they wouldn't fit my lucas [emoji23] Is there no way you can creep up on the cut for harder timbers? I can do similar with my spindle moulder but see the advantage of this for longer timber. It always seems wrong to me to mould green timbers. You may get away with it on pine, but certainly not oak! Will be interested to get an update of how the timbers dry. Have fun making sawdust.
-
How to estimate a log's weight
muttley9050 replied to Andrew L's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Everything oversize. I usually bend my ramps getting the logs off not on. Good job I like welding. I regularly move 6 tonne plus logs with my winch though. Nice and easy if your careful -
How to estimate a log's weight
muttley9050 replied to Andrew L's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Parbuckling with a winch is pretty safe. No need to be in any danger zone and nice and easy. Always best to anchor the winch to the trailer itself so nothing moves independently under load. I park next to the log. Install the ramps or 6x2 etc. Throw a strop round the trailer chassis on the opposite side to the log. Connect the winch to this. Take winch cable over top of log, around and back underneath. Then connect cable end to same strop as the winch. Then just winch away. Easy peasy. -
Yeah. Not seen that or a bronx tale. Sure I've seen chopper but didn't remeber the linked scene so will have to rewatch that too.
-
How to estimate a log's weight
muttley9050 replied to Andrew L's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
No way a 1.7m3 cedar is 2 tonne. Very few fresh cut logs weigh the same or more than water. Definately not cedar. -
Good thread. a film and a series I haven't seen too, so will keep me busy
-
How to estimate a log's weight
muttley9050 replied to Andrew L's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Just parbuckle it on to the trailer with a winch. Much less hassle than hiring a machine. Your Log is approximately 1.7m3 so if its green I would expect it to weigh about 1.1 tonnes. A 3 ft cedar should be milled not logged. -
Habitat is great. All for it, but I was told yew was a poor choice as its toxic to most things. Makes sense to me but could be wrong. Came from wether or not to fell a dead standing yew for Milling or leave for habitat. We milled it as seemed no good for habitat
-
Isn't yew shit habitat?
-
The chain shouldn't have a big hook like a cross cut chain. They're is a balance between cutting speed and board finish. The op however cuts slowly with a bad finish. Even when my chain is dull my lucas still cuts with a clean finish, just slower.
-
Chain is 5 skip oregon 27rx. Profile looks ok. Bar looks old, As I said before will be one of the things I mentioned so if set up is good it must be bar or chain. I would be taking bar off and checking gap and squaring edges off. Sharpen chain and set raker height. And see where you are.
-
What chain are you using. That cut is awful. Could be chain related. Where are you based?
-
Your problem will be one of the following in order of likeliness. Bad chain. But you say its brand new so. Bar missaligned with rails. Go through all bar alignment procedures. Will probably need shimming front to back to get it spot on. Put a straight edge front to back on bar and measure against frame to check. Rails are out of parallel to each other. Bar is worn either, rails out of square or the Groove is too wide. You will always get some rippling but a properly set up slabber will be minimal. I assume your using a 5 skip chain.? Please upload some photos of the quality of cut and I may be able to advise.
-
Is it climbing in the cut too?
-
At no point has he said he wants the logs for free.
-
I've done it before with poles with a rotten center. Just get rid of the rotten bit. That's the bit the creosote didn't penetrate. My posts are in service still on the chicken fence. Outlasted 2 modern 4x4 posts
-
Very nice.
-
The mould won't disappear not will stop growing if the logs are dry. There will always be a mould stain unless you clean it off.
-
Nah. Not that desperate to drive for 2.5 hours to cut it for him.
-
Did you ever get this sorted?
-
Did you ever get this sorted?
-
Cheers. None that close though. Nearest is an hour away. Will contact them if nobody comes up with a better option
